- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Migmac
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Too late to this party now, but did you consider a spiral staircase?
Aye, I think we've all had one of those.Knife is coming along nicely!
Thanks, everything is made. Just need the hardware and polishing bits and pieces to arrive. Then I can put it all together The lock knife is certainly more involved than a sheath knife. Actually think I’ve enjoyed it more. Getting everything to fit and move as required was a bit of a challenge.
Great job, I've been meaning to make a sled for mine for a long time now,.....did your saw have the 'claws' either side of the blade? I'm guessing that it's OK to totally remove these? I can't recall seeing them in use once a sled is fitted??
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
No problem. Looking good.
Today have made myself hurt a little bit.
Between myself and 2 mates moved a tyre changer to a storage unit and cleared the space and then refilled it with my tool box.
So now I have got majority of my tools at home which is going to help massively as I have been struggling for 2years with very limited tools in the garage.
Between myself and 2 mates moved a tyre changer to a storage unit and cleared the space and then refilled it with my tool box.
So now I have got majority of my tools at home which is going to help massively as I have been struggling for 2years with very limited tools in the garage.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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In between sleep(little), coffee(lots) self centred idiots(One) and Google experts(2 in real life) I managed to crack on and do things.
A small little job.
Not floor space, but a small wooden kicker for @Dr.Al Vice.
When I get a new spring made, with help, it may be going to a MIS.
Until then It is a dust magnet.
The turned wood allows it to be dragged across the floor with out damage to the floor of the leg.
The wood was turned down from pith pine the drowned in oil/wax.
Pleasant job and one in witch I good switch the outside world off.
A small little job.
Not floor space, but a small wooden kicker for @Dr.Al Vice.
When I get a new spring made, with help, it may be going to a MIS.
Until then It is a dust magnet.
The turned wood allows it to be dragged across the floor with out damage to the floor of the leg.
The wood was turned down from pith pine the drowned in oil/wax.
Pleasant job and one in witch I good switch the outside world off.
Lazurus
Member
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- Norfolk uk
The claws are to stop kickback as is the riving knife - be sure you know what you are doing if you remove either and or the guard. (Acceptable HSE in the states - but they have far more accidents than the uk!!)
Great job, I've been meaning to make a sled for mine for a long time now,.....did your saw have the 'claws' either side of the blade? I'm guessing that it's OK to totally remove these? I can't recall seeing them in use once a sled is fitted??
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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A few days ago I got this Dental Flask Press.
It was seized, rusty and pitted.
I was expecting a challenge with, heat, oil, levers, coffee, freezer spray, coffee and bad words.
But a few drops of my penetrating oil it came to bits, Oh yes a few "Please move taps" with my hammer.
NB @Parm My Hammer.
Sadly time had removed any hint of paint, Google was not a lot of use.
Hitting the rust back with a angle grinder wire brush. The other 2 parts are in the background.
This is worth noting.
See the pitting, that was caused by the glue of an old label still trapping moisture underneath of it.
There was 3 more like this. Nice rectangle areas of pitting.
This gave me an idea, but I needed coffee, so I had 2.
Coated in a paste of Citric acid, distilled water and a few drops of liquid soap.
This ensures the rust in the pits and the casting flaws gets treated.
What I can find out this model is at least 60 to 100 years old, casting floors would be frowned at the final finish, my coffee fuelled plan was taking shape.
Washed cleaned and attacked with 400 grit wet and dry, used dry.
The light grey is lead loading. Looks easy, can be done. I need a bit more practise. I know modern fillers can be used. This was more fun.
The screw holding the working face in place was:
Badly damaged.
Wrong Thread.
Wrong designe.
When putting the pressure on the flask, you want the working face to remain loose, not twisting on the flask. When the pressure is reached. The flask is closed and the plastic excess is excluded you want to lack it up.
Hence the wing nut.
The hex head was cut off and the end rounded over with a Bastard cut file, then smooth cut.
The wooden base. With chocolate washers. No Leather.
Now this wood is off the pine family. But To help seal it and give it colour I went over it with a propane torch. Then sanded it back.
It will get a lot of coats of Teak oil.
Finished.
Under the base of the press are 14 1/4" leather washers. This is to lift the base up.
To allow air to flow through and not trap moisture. The leather washers were stamped out.
Then placed in a back with wax and nail varnish remover.
You remove all the air from the plastic bag, place the bag under a book for a few hours.
Cheep pressure treating leather washers. They are not glued, the striation from the wax was good enough to hold them in place.
It was seized, rusty and pitted.
I was expecting a challenge with, heat, oil, levers, coffee, freezer spray, coffee and bad words.
But a few drops of my penetrating oil it came to bits, Oh yes a few "Please move taps" with my hammer.
NB @Parm My Hammer.
Sadly time had removed any hint of paint, Google was not a lot of use.
Hitting the rust back with a angle grinder wire brush. The other 2 parts are in the background.
This is worth noting.
See the pitting, that was caused by the glue of an old label still trapping moisture underneath of it.
There was 3 more like this. Nice rectangle areas of pitting.
This gave me an idea, but I needed coffee, so I had 2.
Coated in a paste of Citric acid, distilled water and a few drops of liquid soap.
This ensures the rust in the pits and the casting flaws gets treated.
What I can find out this model is at least 60 to 100 years old, casting floors would be frowned at the final finish, my coffee fuelled plan was taking shape.
Washed cleaned and attacked with 400 grit wet and dry, used dry.
The light grey is lead loading. Looks easy, can be done. I need a bit more practise. I know modern fillers can be used. This was more fun.
The screw holding the working face in place was:
Badly damaged.
Wrong Thread.
Wrong designe.
When putting the pressure on the flask, you want the working face to remain loose, not twisting on the flask. When the pressure is reached. The flask is closed and the plastic excess is excluded you want to lack it up.
Hence the wing nut.
The hex head was cut off and the end rounded over with a Bastard cut file, then smooth cut.
The wooden base. With chocolate washers. No Leather.
Now this wood is off the pine family. But To help seal it and give it colour I went over it with a propane torch. Then sanded it back.
It will get a lot of coats of Teak oil.
Finished.
Under the base of the press are 14 1/4" leather washers. This is to lift the base up.
To allow air to flow through and not trap moisture. The leather washers were stamped out.
Then placed in a back with wax and nail varnish remover.
You remove all the air from the plastic bag, place the bag under a book for a few hours.
Cheep pressure treating leather washers. They are not glued, the striation from the wax was good enough to hold them in place.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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For making false teeth.
The teeth are held in the plaster, the wax is lost. The plastic is added. The press is used to form the final shape.
Then it is baked, the set removed and cleaned up.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
steviec_lj
Rust Welding Professional
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Far from what I’ve done today, but a few little jobs from the past 14-16 weeks;
L200 bump stop stop, on the chassis. Comprised of a short section of 80x40x3mm and some 3mm plate. Welded here, there, and everywhere. Then a liberal coating of Zinc/Galv spray, as you know what they say the secret to a good weld is? A thick coating of paint!
Next up, a few weekends work and it’s still not finished. But, a MIG/TIG/Plasma trolley that should free up about 0.005m2 of floor space so I can trip over something else. 30mm SHS throughout, 8mm plate for the gas cylinders to sit on - I still need to make a bracket to hold the cylinders upright though, add some sheet shelves and paint it, but I’m impressed with it.
Finally got around to altering my dash table for the lorry. Added a small raised area, and two cup holders. Fans are held in place with Velcro. The dash in a Renault T-Range is woeful and everything moves around under slight braking or cornering.
Today has involved removing the Vito front bumper and installing new brackets, I had planned to install new front arch liners, but for the second time I’ve been sent incorrect items, so ordered direct from Northside in Immingham. Also replaced the rear door holders? for when the doors are open as they’d both given up.
Only a million other things to do now.. But it feels good to cross a couple of bits off the list.
L200 bump stop stop, on the chassis. Comprised of a short section of 80x40x3mm and some 3mm plate. Welded here, there, and everywhere. Then a liberal coating of Zinc/Galv spray, as you know what they say the secret to a good weld is? A thick coating of paint!
Next up, a few weekends work and it’s still not finished. But, a MIG/TIG/Plasma trolley that should free up about 0.005m2 of floor space so I can trip over something else. 30mm SHS throughout, 8mm plate for the gas cylinders to sit on - I still need to make a bracket to hold the cylinders upright though, add some sheet shelves and paint it, but I’m impressed with it.
Finally got around to altering my dash table for the lorry. Added a small raised area, and two cup holders. Fans are held in place with Velcro. The dash in a Renault T-Range is woeful and everything moves around under slight braking or cornering.
Today has involved removing the Vito front bumper and installing new brackets, I had planned to install new front arch liners, but for the second time I’ve been sent incorrect items, so ordered direct from Northside in Immingham. Also replaced the rear door holders? for when the doors are open as they’d both given up.
Only a million other things to do now.. But it feels good to cross a couple of bits off the list.
Lazurus
Member
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- Norfolk uk
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Gross!!!!
The engineering that goes into dental work is fantastic. Some of the welding used was up sized and used in the Apollo missions.
As to the development of plastics The UK leads the world in it.
mpats
Member
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- 1,182
No Claws on mine, but it did have the top guard/dust extractor which was attached to the top of the riving knife. I had a look and replacements were less than 20 quid so just modified the one that was fitted knowing I can replace it in the future.Great job, I've been meaning to make a sled for mine for a long time now,.....did your saw have the 'claws' either side of the blade? I'm guessing that it's OK to totally remove these? I can't recall seeing them in use once a sled is fitted??
slim_boy_fat
Member
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- 29,508
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- Scottish Highlands
Knocked up a couple of holders for a friend's shop, for holding disinfectant
Not much, but filled the afternoon waiting for F1 quali highlights
Not much, but filled the afternoon waiting for F1 quali highlights
Yeah, I knew that the claws are to stop kickback, just know that some saws come with them and others don't, any idea why? Mines got the riving knife too.
I'm guessing that folk just remove them claws if they make/use a sledge, how advisable/safe is that, not sure??
mpats
Member
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- 1,182
Removing the claws is fine. Not a huge number of saws that come with them, that I've seen. Lots of yanks who remove the riving knife, I probably wouldn't.
