Stuff you have made today

[Turbo]

I did the last bits on my other fence. Painting 40+ meters of 12mm round bar is going to suck.

View attachment 193280

As suggested, I would get that galvanised. If you don't like the shiny finish cover it with high build vinyl paint after etching the zinc with a wash. A mini hvlp spray gun is great for round bars, you can set it for a narrow spray pattern so you have little overspray. You can get adapters to fit a full size paint pot on them.

 

[selectedgrub]

2inch fan

 

[Memmeddu]

2inch fan

Is It a mixer fan?

 

[Memmeddu]

Finally I've replaced the cord and riassembled the welder ,I've cleaned it from all the dust that was inside using a little brush and hand air pump
As you can see in the images
The new cord is longer and thicker ,the plug is new and finer to see
Hope you can see the heat shrink tubing onto the cable where the cord holder bite into the cable itself
I put it to give more strength and prevent the cable to bend
Replaced also the black pg11 using a white pg13,5
And grounded the chassis because wasn't fitted any ground PE cable onto the machine
I found that using heat shrink tubing as cord saver makes good esthetics and give a feeling of good job done so I will do this often in the future when I will work with flexible cables or power cord or extension cord
Maybe also on welding leads expecially at the end of the electrode holder where the lead get bent practically always
Hope you like my efforts to improve little bit my welder
I haven't cranked it on so I'm little bit scared to have did something wrong but surely I will not catch on fire so not a big issue

 

[Screwdriver]

iPad stand. Not finished yet, needs some protective padding, maybe some felt and soft edging.

Folds flat to act as a lid.

It’s really for sofa surfing but these devices are incredibly delicate so also has to be robust. Made from recycled lorry siding!

 

[Hood]

The 8" nominal bore pipe arrived today which allowed me to turn the step on the end caps, I always wait until I have the pipe as the sizes can vary slightly between lots and I want an nice press (batter with hammer) fit.

Bandsaw comes in handy as a bench.

Job done.

Next up I chopped up a bit of bronze prop shaft.

Into the Chiron and made some rectangular stock.

The next step was to do a bit more machining to them, it left this.

And this.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Got this a few weeks ago. Never restored one, so why not.

Getting home and it was clear something was not right. When taped with a hammer the lid did not "ring."


A old break, the lid would normally drop down and "smack" into the base.



Striped down and a braze repair.
The screws, pins and nails are past their best before date. New ones will be made or adapted.



A week in a de-rusting tank. Not much has bean removed. Do I use power tools or more time?



Heat.
Used the heat to burn the rust off and convert some to hot black oxide.
Then back into the tank, with a lot more anodes and amps.



Out and wire brushed.
New pins, suitable nuts and the handle was worm treated.
My way.

Heat the wood in a micro wave at high power. In 2 minute hits..
Submerge in "Meths" or White spirit. Dry well and micro wave again.
Then it was given a sand down, the cracks glued and a decent oil and wax seal.





The metal work is waxed. But a black dye was added. The body was sanded by hand with 600 grit wet and dry.
The pins were "Hot peined over" to give the lost look of the past.
Modern imperial nuts as getting old of cheeses head or dome head screws local was difficult.

Am I brave enough to give this to Mrs TYA?

NO.

 

[PhillipM]

 

[MCKDAVID]

sierra? cosworth?

 

[Memmeddu]

The other day I told you about my compressor motor
Painted it a week ago or so
Fell down the other day because he escaped from my hands,landed on the plastic contact box and destroyed totally
So yesterday evening at about 8:30 PM I started to disable it
Removed the remaining parts of the broken box and the contact plates
Doing that I found that the wirings that starts from the windings have been compromised
So they need to be replaced
This morning I had to remove the shaft key on the motor that was completely seized in position
I ended up taking a piece of flat stock , that I cut using my metabo grinder , making a home for the key ,made a bevel
Put it in position and secured using a vise grip
I also made a thread asking what type of rod was more suitable for this purpose but I opted to use 312L 2.5mm rods since I have no clue of what kind of steel is made the key
And I read somewhere that stainless rods are generally good to weld dissimilar steels
Cranked on the welder at 100A and after a tack started laying 3 beads to joint the flat stock and the key together
Did that I just applied a little bit of force on the flat stock and the key came out without any problems

 

[DAPPH]

Hey Phil, some git has stolen your seats & dumped some scrap wire harness in their place . They've even nicked the window winders & door panels .

 

[3000alloy]

Not so much what I made today. It's more what I done today. Raised enterance gate peirs this morning with 6inch blocks and then began welding spears on top of the gates. The rain is on now so that's it for today.

 

[PhillipM]

Hey Phil, some git has stolen your seats & dumped some scrap wire harness in their place . They've even nicked the window winders & door panels .

Welcome to Rotherham!

Peugeot 306

 

[Hood]

Today I decided to swap over one of the main cylinders on the Chirons toolchanger.
Of course nothing quite goes to plan.
First thing I had to do was machine the mounting block as the thread length on the original cylinder was 5mm longer so I had to machine a pocket 5mm deep and then remove material from the side to give clearance for the fitting.

Thought it would be plain sailing from there but no, thread on original was M12 and the new cylinder was M12 x 1.25 Luckily I had a tap the correct pitch so as a stop gap I ran it through and although rough it seems to be fairly strong. I have however measured it and done a drawing so I can make a couple at my leisure.

Next up the prox switches were in the wrong position on the plate and also no means of mounting the plate on the new cylinder. I repositioned the prox's and just bored some holes in the plate and used a couple of cable ties. I have proper thin section clamps here at home so the cable ties will be replaced soon.

All working as it should and saved myself over £1000 by doing these modifications.

This tray on the lathe was the next job, it always got in the way when I was trying to lean into the lathe to see how close an insert was to the work. It is dual purpose, it is supposed to catch the coolant running off the cross slide and also act as a tray for setting stuff on. Me being an untidy person and having someplace to put things is not a good idea as it soon gets filled up.

Removed and sitting on the Triumph to show scale.

Now I have loads of room to lean in to the lathe, I should have removed it years ago.

 

[cianh91]

Pressure tested

And then fitted along with a whole new system for air to the workshop

With a lot of piping to go. Unfortunately nearly the whole place runs on air in some way or another so can only be done out of hours

 

[MCKDAVID]

Now I have loads of room to lean in to the lathe, I should have removed it years ago.

View attachment 193685

looks better access, but that cross slide cover looks a wee bit small for yer brew now.. is that the next churchill mod, a cup holder???

 

[Hood]

It is just a "for scale" mug, I just drink tap water at the workshop nowadays

 

[MCKDAVID]

i know, I was only kidding...

 

[Hood]

i know, I was only kidding...

And the reason you know is because it is clean so can't possibly be used by me ?

 

[Tangledfeet]

It is just a "for scale" mug, I just drink tap water at the workshop nowadays

You're still mourning the end of 'proper' Irn-Bru, aren't you...