Stuff you have made today

[AndersK]

^^^ How do the fish swim in there when the viscosity of the water increases. I know it gets cold up where you are

I leave two pumps running over the winter, shooting straight up.
That keeps two holes open and generates energy enough to keep water from freezing to the bottom. Coldest days I might have to break the crust.

 

[nickk]

Some more outdoor tables,customer will use marble on top.

 

[8ob]

Not sure you've got enough throttle bodies and velocity stacks.

Are those hurleys up on the top at the far end?

Its a couple of axes

What’re those throttle bodies / velocity stacks for Bob? Don’t look like Stolly bits

Some sillyness I will be working on very shortly

 

[lchris21]

loving that exhaust

 

[Prajna]

Made Kali (SWMBO) a small enxada from the remains of an old enxada, a bit of 1.2mm ss sheet and a mimosa pole. Welds (2.5mm E312 @ 50A) are not pretty but it's for light duty and is stuck better than it looks.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This small repair/restoration was undertaken at my play pen. By 2 new members of the Mini Men In Sheds.



To be honest, it was not the best blow torch to start on. I had a gut felling it would fight back.
It did.

This was the test fire.



The pump washer failed, then the new washer got damaged.
There is a blue flame, but the day light hides it. But it does show is the pump shaft extended, due to the one way valve having failed. The pump is on fire as is the leaking fuel in the warming bowl.
All we could do was let the pressure of with pliers.




In bits, it did not want to come to bits. The seam round the filler port was opened, so it had to be soldered to seal it.



The one way valve striped, new washer and a quick polish. Yes, that is another leak soldered.




Another test fire showed the flame as uneven, variable strength and very sooty.
The jet was seized, so to remove the carbon it was boiled in caustic soda.




Finished, in flame and still leaking paraffin from the middle sealing nut.

But the MIS members were happy.,

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Another restoration, this time a friend liked what I did to another storm lantern, but wanted a smaller version.

So we located this dead one.



No wick, no wick holder, filler cap cross threaded, side arms loose and a rusty tank.



Hot citric acid.




Draw back of hot citric acid or hot caustic is the speed of flash rust. But it doesn't take much to remove it.

Finished.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This £5 vice was a fun restoration and showed the New MIS members that something that looked like it was well past the saving stage can be brought back to life.



A nice, but in a poor state.
Seized.
Broken.
Missing parts.
Badly rusted and pitted.



The screw thread nut was broken.



The front of the fixed jaw was also broken. But did allow easier access the pull the nail out holding the spring.

To open remove the moving jaw. Soak well oil, warm the fixed jaw up as much as you can.
Then drive in shaped wooden wedges between the fixed and moving jaw.
Drive home and walk away.
The forces and the drew will start the jaws moving.



The Nut was brazed up to repair it.
That is not another crack on the RHS, just a casting mark.





Replacement jaw made from scrap bar. Hand drilled.
Then case hardened.
Crush some hard wood charcoal into powder, heat the bar to red heat and cover in the powder.



All 4 jaw screw holes were striped. 2 before I got the vice. The last 2 by me when removing them.
So they are drilled and taped to M10, the suds are then filled flat and drilled and taped to M6.



On the final leg.



Down side of gold leaf.
It will show up any flaws.

Oh well.

 

[bricol]

Its a couple of axes



Some sillyness I will be working on very shortly

All I'm going to say, is you can have have too much torque. A lightweight car that simply lights its tyres up when you apply a mm of throttle is funny the first 60 seconds . . and absolutely useless ever after. Seven style cars thrive on revs and handling from a low polar moment of inertia. Confuse that by overloading it with torque, and power, and granny on her way to the shops with an open tray of eggs on the passenger seat in her 1.2 Fiesta will humiliate you around roundabouts, or in anything other than bone dry conditions.

Admittedly her Fiesta won't sound as nice

 

[Kram]

Fit the wp26 pen torch head on the sherman torch. I will be replacing the button layer.

 

[8ob]

All I'm going to say, is you can have have too much torque. A lightweight car that simply lights its tyres up when you apply a mm of throttle is funny the first 60 seconds . . and absolutely useless ever after. Seven style cars thrive on revs and handling from a low polar moment of inertia. Confuse that by overloading it with torque, and power, and granny on her way to the shops with an open tray of eggs on the passenger seat in her 1.2 Fiesta will humiliate you around roundabouts, or in anything other than bone dry conditions.

Admittedly her Fiesta won't sound as nice

Engine with gearbox has been on a big diet and is a lot lighter than most of the popular four pots, its also mounted a lot lower and a lot further back than with a normal four pot install. Engine is being built as a 7500rpm dry sumped screamer as opposed to a torque monster so it should all work out well, certainly wont get embarrassed in the twisty bits, a mate had a V8 westfield and that thing certainly never had traction,stopping or turning problems, this thing I am building should be an improvement on that.

Bob

 

[Munkul]

finished some steel yesterday

 

[Brad93]

Wh

finished some steel yesterday

View attachment 295264View attachment 295265View attachment 295266

Where is your ce mark

 

[Munkul]

Wh

Where is your ce mark

I'm working for someone else

 

[Brad93]

I'm working for someone else

Made in your workshop, doesn’t matter.

 

[Munkul]

Made in your workshop, doesn’t matter.

Their problem, not mine. I'm selling labour, not steel.

 

[mechman]

This £5 vice was a fun restoration and showed the New MIS members that something that looked like it was well past the saving stage can be brought back to life.

View attachment 295234

A nice, but in a poor state.
Seized.
Broken.
Missing parts.
Badly rusted and pitted.

View attachment 295235

The screw thread nut was broken.

View attachment 295236

The front of the fixed jaw was also broken. But did allow easier access the pull the nail out holding the spring.

To open remove the moving jaw. Soak well oil, warm the fixed jaw up as much as you can.
Then drive in shaped wooden wedges between the fixed and moving jaw.
Drive home and walk away.
The forces and the drew will start the jaws moving.

View attachment 295237

The Nut was brazed up to repair it.
That is not another crack on the RHS, just a casting mark.



View attachment 295238

Replacement jaw made from scrap bar. Hand drilled.
Then case hardened.
Crush some hard wood charcoal into powder, heat the bar to red heat and cover in the powder.

View attachment 295240

All 4 jaw screw holes were striped. 2 before I got the vice. The last 2 by me when removing them.
So they are drilled and taped to M10, the suds are then filled flat and drilled and taped to M6.

View attachment 295241

On the final leg.

View attachment 295242

Down side of gold leaf.
It will show up any flaws.

Oh well.





View attachment 295243

Nice resto, also nice head on the beer.

 

[Dr.Al]

I got fed up with the fact that every time I googled for "gear calculator" to remind myself of the equations for involute gears, most of the resulting links seem to be stuck in the dark ages of diametral pitch and inches. Rather than doing something sensible like keeping on searching and then bookmarking one that used the module system, I made my own (it also generates DXFs or SVGs of the gear profile).

Link: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/calculators/gears

Screenshot:

 

[James1979]

I got fed up with the fact that every time I googled for "gear calculator" to remind myself of the equations for involute gears, most of the resulting links seem to be stuck in the dark ages of diametral pitch and inches. Rather than doing something sensible like keeping on searching and then bookmarking one that used the module system, I made my own (it also generates DXFs or SVGs of the gear profile).

Link: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/calculators/gears

Screenshot:

View attachment 295318

Thank you

That will be very useful

If you ever write one for bike sprockets it’s would also be handy I’ve often wondered what a plasma one would be like vs a shop bought one. Obviously you’d have to profile it a bit on the lathe but a few afternoons at the mx track buggers them so the ability to cut my own would be damn handy.

 

[Brad93]

I got fed up with the fact that every time I googled for "gear calculator" to remind myself of the equations for involute gears, most of the resulting links seem to be stuck in the dark ages of diametral pitch and inches. Rather than doing something sensible like keeping on searching and then bookmarking one that used the module system, I made my own (it also generates DXFs or SVGs of the gear profile).

Link: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/calculators/gears

Screenshot:

View attachment 295318

Another bookmark to your site added