- Thread starter God mode restorations
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3000alloy
Member
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- 159
- Location
- Ireland
Bastardised a Hardi backpack sprayer, quad sprayer, 6v battery and a sack trolley to mobilise for weed spraying.
Why? Well both shoulder straps are unusable and replacements for this model cannot be got. Works a treat. All can be dismantled to allow for the use of the sack trolley for other use.
Why? Well both shoulder straps are unusable and replacements for this model cannot be got. Works a treat. All can be dismantled to allow for the use of the sack trolley for other use.
dyno-tron
Member
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- 506
- Location
- Near Chester, UK
That is my kind of project!!! Good job
qwakers
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- 2,454
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- cornwall, united kingdom
nothing too big and clever, but something i made today, nevertheless.....
roof bars.
what idiot thought flush mount roof rails where a good idea? means my trusty old bars don't fit, i need to carry a ladder somewhere tomorrow and i don't have £100 for a set of new bars..
so let the bodges begin!
i cut 4 bits of 50mm angle down to 75mm long, one edge 50 mm one edge 20 mm
then i drilled 2 holes and welded 2 captive nuts.
then on the 50mm face i welded a rivnut on as a locking captive/standoff and a little guide on the leading edge.
they look like this.
i then measured the distance between the rails and slotted the tops like this
to take the adjustment bolts.
assembled it looks like this:
and fitted they look like this
not the easiest to fit and remove but will do til i can afford better.... or ill make better
roof bars.
what idiot thought flush mount roof rails where a good idea? means my trusty old bars don't fit, i need to carry a ladder somewhere tomorrow and i don't have £100 for a set of new bars..
so let the bodges begin!
i cut 4 bits of 50mm angle down to 75mm long, one edge 50 mm one edge 20 mm
then i drilled 2 holes and welded 2 captive nuts.
then on the 50mm face i welded a rivnut on as a locking captive/standoff and a little guide on the leading edge.
they look like this.
i then measured the distance between the rails and slotted the tops like this
to take the adjustment bolts.
assembled it looks like this:
and fitted they look like this
not the easiest to fit and remove but will do til i can afford better.... or ill make better
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,456
- Location
- New Zealand
It was a nice day today.
I mock up my project to get some ideas for the chassis.
I mock up my project to get some ideas for the chassis.
Olderisbetter
Member
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- 3,927
- Location
- Wolverhampton
This reminds me of the Tony Stark Arc reactor
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- 6,440
- Location
- Manchester UK
@eLuSiVeMiTe wanted to see a couple built up. These are all AR-15 uppers in various calibres: .224 Valkyrie. .300 Whisper/AAC Blackout, 22 rimfire there is even one in .223 Rem!*
I build them all up on one of my own lowers then they get put onto their own individual lower and sent off to the Proof House, each one is a custom build for the customer. I am building seven this week and three next, then I start on a couple of long guns. Which should be quite interesting.
I build them all up on one of my own lowers then they get put onto their own individual lower and sent off to the Proof House, each one is a custom build for the customer. I am building seven this week and three next, then I start on a couple of long guns. Which should be quite interesting.
Ok, what is it?It was a nice day today.
I mock up my project to get some ideas for the chassis.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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- 16,439
- Location
- ......
It isn't anything. It just is
waddycall
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- 1,923
Olderisbetter
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- Wolverhampton
These look amazing, are they sold in the UK i am not up to date with current firearms rules i have not owned a firearms since the Hungerford days.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 6,440
- Location
- Manchester UK
Yes, these are UK legal. They are effectively a single shot bolt action straight pull, with the exception of the 22 rimfire which we can still have as a semi auto.
A great many people deride the "Black Rifle" but frankly, it is just like any other prejudice. For instance, the AR15 platform was principally a civilian development, the M16 was the military version. AR does not stand for "assault rifle" either, it is Armalite Rifle but the naysayers never bother to arm themselves with facts. I really enjoy the platform, sort of thinking man's Meccano. Very easy to build one badly, there are some very critical dimensions in the build.
In the UK it is not that hard to get a firearm certificate and then get say, a .223 on it. It is not easy to then get that off your certificate and put something similar of the same calibre on, but with the AR platform the world is your oyster. You can buy add-ons, accessories and "upgrades" to your hearts content and then if you fancy one in say .300 AAC Blackout you just ask for a spare bolt and barrel and get someone to build you an upper then you can just drop whatever cal you fancy on to the lower when you please. Because the scope is all part of the upper, once sighted in you are good to go and you can chop and change at will. I have one lower and a couple of uppers and instead of buying say four top end trigger units at £200 each I just bought one. Result really. Besides, I can genuinely tell the Finance Director that I only have one of them, the other bits are just "spares" :-)
A miniature project today, I bought my mum this Swarovski butterfly some years ago and although it has a stand formed into it it's always been very unstable and she knocks it over quite a bit. Made, out of some brass sheet, a little cradle for the back of it, it now holds it steady. The uprights were a pig to solder, they kept dancing around as soon as any heat was applied, had to get Ms. Jimbo in to hold the torch on it whilst I held them in place.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,258
- Location
- Going Away.
To take time to chill out and calm down, this week in the pay pen it was "No power tools."
Electricity was used in the de rusting, that was the only power used.
Late last year a good friend gave me this.
Primus stove, incomplete. But still a challenge to restore and locate parts.
The tin was bad in parts.
But it gave me an idea to de-rust the whole tin in one go.
Line of site, I even added a sheet onto the bottom. Then a set of rods inside the tin.
The other parts were left in hot citric acid.
The tin was removed and wire wool was used to buff it up.
I had to solder a number of seams, they had popped over time.
But a paraffin blow torch and a copper bit had them sealed.
The fuel tanks suffered.
The small holes were soldered up.
The bigger one a off cut of copper was sweated on to make it fuel tight.
All buffed by hand.
Back into the tin.
Sealed with wax.
Electricity was used in the de rusting, that was the only power used.
Late last year a good friend gave me this.
Primus stove, incomplete. But still a challenge to restore and locate parts.
The tin was bad in parts.
But it gave me an idea to de-rust the whole tin in one go.
Line of site, I even added a sheet onto the bottom. Then a set of rods inside the tin.
The other parts were left in hot citric acid.
The tin was removed and wire wool was used to buff it up.
I had to solder a number of seams, they had popped over time.
But a paraffin blow torch and a copper bit had them sealed.
The fuel tanks suffered.
The small holes were soldered up.
The bigger one a off cut of copper was sweated on to make it fuel tight.
All buffed by hand.
Back into the tin.
Sealed with wax.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,258
- Location
- Going Away.
Part 2.
The Tin sides had warped in the hot de-rusting tank. Plus a fee seams had failed. There was also a few dings and dents.
The wood is white oak. It is being used here to brace the sides as I re solder the seams, from the outside.
It was also used to help dress out the dings and dents
2 seams done.
The vertical on was soldered, then wiped with wire wool when warm to smooth out the lead solder.
The bottom is next to be done.
I did a few other seams, but this was the one what showed the difference.
One seam there was enough old solder to allow me just to sweet the joint together.
A few small holes.
No.
That would be wishful.
Wire wool soon had a few more on show,
EEK.
This clearly shows how a few small holes can grow.
Top right seam was heated and the copper bit dragged along and it sealed up nicly.
The bottom needed a few methods.
A granite stone was used to abrade the metal, add a small depression. Then a point on it was used to dimple each hole.
Not the best image.
Bottom right on the edge is a small bit of copper sheet.
Tinned both sides and then when the rest of the base was hot. it was dropped on and the residue heat caused the tin solder to melt and flow.
Sealing the holes.
The heat colours can be seen on the LHS.
Buffed when hot with a off cut of old jeans. The thickness stops you from burning your hands and buffs up the metal.
Again, why use the old ways when new methods are readily available.
Fun.
My time and why not.
The modern gas torch was in reality to hot. Even through it was small.
It made lighting the paraffin blow torch easy.
The copper bits got enough heat in the tins, with out popping the other seams.
As a way to chill out it was fun.
The Tin sides had warped in the hot de-rusting tank. Plus a fee seams had failed. There was also a few dings and dents.
The wood is white oak. It is being used here to brace the sides as I re solder the seams, from the outside.
It was also used to help dress out the dings and dents
2 seams done.
The vertical on was soldered, then wiped with wire wool when warm to smooth out the lead solder.
The bottom is next to be done.
I did a few other seams, but this was the one what showed the difference.
One seam there was enough old solder to allow me just to sweet the joint together.
A few small holes.
No.
That would be wishful.
Wire wool soon had a few more on show,
EEK.
This clearly shows how a few small holes can grow.
Top right seam was heated and the copper bit dragged along and it sealed up nicly.
The bottom needed a few methods.
A granite stone was used to abrade the metal, add a small depression. Then a point on it was used to dimple each hole.
Not the best image.
Bottom right on the edge is a small bit of copper sheet.
Tinned both sides and then when the rest of the base was hot. it was dropped on and the residue heat caused the tin solder to melt and flow.
Sealing the holes.
The heat colours can be seen on the LHS.
Buffed when hot with a off cut of old jeans. The thickness stops you from burning your hands and buffs up the metal.
Again, why use the old ways when new methods are readily available.
Fun.
My time and why not.
The modern gas torch was in reality to hot. Even through it was small.
It made lighting the paraffin blow torch easy.
The copper bits got enough heat in the tins, with out popping the other seams.
As a way to chill out it was fun.
slim_boy_fat
Member
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- 29,508
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- Scottish Highlands
@The_Yellow_Ardvark You're a man of many talents 
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,258
- Location
- Going Away.
slim_boy_fat
Member
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- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Ditto. I hate being at weddings etc where I'm perfectly happy just watching from the sidelines but folk insist on dragging me onto the dance floor, I've many ways of making a fool of myself without that.
