The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Sometimes a "like" is not enough.
You starting to take commissions? On second thoughts I could not afford it.A base for one run of kitchen units, I hate them poxy plastic legs with plastic clips that are supposed to hold the plinth on. This way I put down the base, level it with the adjustable feet and fix it to the back wall, then drop the cabinets on. The plinth is bolted on using rivnuts.
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Only issue I had was distortion, after welding the legs on one side of the 25mm box it was curved like a banana even though I clamped the frame clamped to the top while welding. But a bit of packing at each end and a clamp in the middle soon sorted it.
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And the carcasses, all birch ply, I hate MDF/chipboard with a passion. I need to put some birch ply reinforcing strips to support the face frame then a couple of coats of Bona Mega water based poly on the inside then its time to rip out one run of cheapo B&Q specials and replace, probably next weekend.
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Face frame will be quarter sawn oak, as will the drawers and plinths. Door construction still subject of debate but probably similar.
Cheers
Andy
You starting to take commissions? On second thoughts I could not afford it.
Bet you still get it wrong.![]()
A good few tool companies now offer tools colour coded for size,
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No I don't think they're standardised, each manufacturer uses their own colours. Two colours would be enough, all the odd numbers one colour and all the even numbers a different colour.I haven't noticed, but is the colour coding standardised between makers?
In the case of Wera, they're not even standard across their own tools.I haven't noticed, but is the colour coding standardised between makers?
Dunno about everyone else but I can look at a spanner and tell what size it is with a very high success rate.
Dunno about everyone else but I can look at a spanner and tell what size it is with a very high success rate.
Another few days of passing my knowledge onto others.
I don't have a lesson plan, we do stuff as I acquire them and how the others feel.
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As it arrived.
Leaking, semi seized. Made from alloy and brass. Plus a disgusting modern hose fitting.
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How we finished it.
The advice I passed on was:
How to free off sized items.
How to polish brass.
How to use rattle cans.
How to re seal with new seals and not miles of PTFE.
So.
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A mix of metals, and paint.
So, using the information from the last one.
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Lessons learned.
Bad paint prep leads to a bad finish. The body was painted 3 times.
Sometimes, you have to admit you will do more damaged trying to remove a part. The hose tail is at this time stuck in place.
Plus, it may look complete, but it way not be. So a lesson on sourcing parts. This was an eye opener to one member that a certain orange fronted Diy.com store can be a lot Jabberwocky.
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So, we moved on, well it was going on at the same time, something what can be used. SIF 1942 Egg Beater drill.
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Lessons.
not all finishes have to be paint. The body and chuck have been chemically blackened. H&S lesson. my Shed my rules.
Masking tape, not all are the same. Even in the same pack of 3.
Just because it was repaired using nails. You can replace them with the correct pins and in the case of the handle, glue.
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There was an introduction to thread locking compounds.
My Fun.
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A german Storm Lantern.
Easy to strip down, Hot citric acid bath.
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Replacement wick, again new old stock. Then dipped into plating tank, it looks good.
This is the biggest item I have pated. I wanted to see if the finish will last and that I got the method right.
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The last image is to point out, as I was accused off, recycling old jobs or using someone else's work.
My 2 storm lanterns.
If the member wants to question me again I will post an image he wants, if not he can go and......
What did you use to blacken the drill? Been investigating this recently, have a part to do.
Dunno about everyone else but I can look at a spanner and tell what size it is with a very high success rate.