Stuff you have made today

[Pete.]

I made this today, it's called an air lift. It only works under water, it's basically a hand held dredging tool. It's a 4" tube with a smaller pipe on the outside which has a 90 bend to deliver air into the side of the big tube 6" from the bottom end. You connect an air line to the valve at the top and the air rushes up the big tube dragging huge volumes of water with it, so it acts like an underwater gulley sucker.

 

[Parm]

I made this today, it's called an air lift. It only works under water, it's basically a hand held dredging tool. It's a 4" tube with a smaller pipe on the outside which has a 90 bend to deliver air into the side of the big tube 6" from the bottom end. You connect an air line to the valve at the top and the air rushes up the big tube dragging huge volumes of water with it, so it acts like an underwater gulley sucker.

View attachment 189194

An industrial version of the fish tank “vacuum” cleaners

 

[Maker]

I made this today, it's called an air lift. It only works under water, it's basically a hand held dredging tool. It's a 4" tube with a smaller pipe on the outside which has a 90 bend to deliver air into the side of the big tube 6" from the bottom end. You connect an air line to the valve at the top and the air rushes up the big tube dragging huge volumes of water with it, so it acts like an underwater gulley sucker.

View attachment 189194

For a particular use? Or just general pumping of dirty water?

 

[minimutly]

As someone with a background in awater company, I used to see a lot of these, lifting smelly sludge out of the bottom of sedimentation tanks - worked reall well.

 

[Pete.]

For a particular use? Or just general pumping of dirty water?

I'm on a project that requires drilling underwater. The holes keep filling up with river sediment between shifts.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I'm on a project that requires drilling underwater. The holes keep filling up with river sediment between shifts.

That sounds like fun.....

 

[northwest]

Made a couple of brackets to hold the toolholders for the new CNC Mill and knocked up a few bits to make a template so I can finish the enclosure. Doesn't look much now but I will take a pic when I make the actual thing.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Today, I made some lines on the pillar drill table



I did these deliberately before anyone says anything, and the camera angle makes them look off-centre, which they're not . Due to my compromised sight, I have difficulty when drilling round stock in getting the hole(s) at exactly 90o on the vertical plane, between these and my V blocks it ought to be easier.

I tried a centre-finder but, of course, I needed to move the table in order to remove it and insert the drill-bit . Now I just need to try them, and decide if they're clear enough to see without filling the marks with paint.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Today, I made some lines on the pillar drill table
View attachment 189309
View attachment 189310

I did these deliberately before anyone says anything, and the camera angle makes them look off-centre, which they're not . Due to my compromised sight, I have difficulty when drilling round stock in getting the hole(s) at exactly 90o on the vertical plane, between these and my V blocks it ought to be easier.

I tried a centre-finder but, of course, I needed to move the table in order to remove it and insert the drill-bit . Now I just need to try them, and decide if they're clear enough to see without filling the marks with paint.

One of these is useful
Self centering vice

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Self-Centering-Width-Ground-Steel/dp/B076HQ9RMK
Set up once and forget.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

One of these is useful
Self centering vice

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Self-Centering-Width-Ground-Steel/dp/B076HQ9RMK
Set up once and forget.

Never knew about them, but I have one like this which is pretty rubbish, really.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100mm-4-...260358?hash=item1eed5c2ec6:g:H~oAAOSwceNZQO36

My problem lies in depth perception, you should see the contortions I have to go through when tapping

 

[slim_boy_fat]

you should see the contortions I have to go through when tapping

Forgot to say I've ordered another MT2 ER32 collet chuck from Banggood for use in the tailstock, so that I can try that for tapping.

 

[Hood]

I have been waiting on some Aluminium arriving so decided to get on with the side section for the gate. Managed to get the main frame welded up.

Not sure the best way to weld up the top section, I plasma cut some 3mm sheet to weld into a box but I am kind of dreading it as I know how much stainless moves when welding. I am not used to this type of thing so I was thinking Autogenous might be the way to go, anyone have any thoughts? Maybe @Paul. would be able to suggest the best way?
Pic below of the bit I mean.

 

[eSCHEn]

I have been waiting on some Aluminium arriving so decided to get on with the side section for the gate. Managed to get the main frame welded up.

View attachment 189341


Not sure the best way to weld up the top section, I plasma cut some 3mm sheet to weld into a box but I am kind of dreading it as I know how much stainless moves when welding. I am not used to this type of thing so I was thinking Autogenous might be the way to go, anyone have any thoughts? Maybe @Paul. would be able to suggest the best way?
Pic below of the bit I mean.

View attachment 189342

Not that I am any expert but autogenous will need a bit of spare material to not leave a concavity won't it? Or will that hide in the powder coat?

BTW that looks like the worst of my nightmares given my predilection to distortion

 

[Hood]

Not that I am any expert but autogenous will need a bit of spare material to not leave a concavity won't it? Or will that hide in the powder coat?

BTW that looks like the worst of my nightmares given my predilection to distortion

I don't really think it will show much as it is a tight fit and I can tend towards rounding the corner with the weld but as said I am not used to working with thin(ish) stainless in this manner.

 

[Paul.]

I would have ground a bit of weld prep on it to give the weld somewhere to go, then mig it but set it up to run the weld downhill (about 45deg) with the power turned up so that you can move fast and minimise the heat input, then you will get a nice flat bead with minimal clean up required,

 

[Hood]

Thanks, I don't have Mig for stainless (no wire or gas) so that is not an option but I might be better off doing stick as that is what I am more used to on stainless.

 

[Paul.]

I never read the post properly so didn't see it was stainless,
Tig or stick will be fine, still run it downhill but at about a 10 deg slope so that the slag doesn't get in front of you, skip weld it a bit so that the heat isn't all in one place, if you have a compressor and a blowgun weld a bit then air quench it to keep it cool.

 

[Hood]

Ok thanks, will give it a go with the Tig first and see.

 

[Hood]

Clamped a bit of 3" x 3" x 1/4" wall Alu box to it and ran along without filler, basically just melting the edge over as I had left it slightly higher.

Turned out better than I hoped regards warping, only a slight bow in the middle as can be seen when I hold the box along side.

More than happy wih the result as I had been wondering how I was going to do the top section and didn't fancy having to use a bit of 25mm x 25mm solid. Just have to cut and fit the uprights now and then the side section and the two gates will be ready for the blaster.

 

[eSCHEn]

Nice job Robin