Finished the backplate for my new rotary table I have been working on for a couple of weeks now,allows me to use my existing lathe 80mm chucks with it.
Will not be turning anything this wide on a mini lathe again until I do a treadmill motor swap... Overload tripped so much that I turned up the pot which controls the current and it now has a little more grunt before it trips
Started off as a bit of 15mm plate which I crudely took an angle grinder to in order to hold it in the 4 jaw without relying on a single thread to hold each jaw
Next I turned down the 55mm chuck reference spigot.
Then flipped it and did the OD before starting on the table side 13.8mm spigot.
Allen key happened to perfectly wedge in the spindle nut which made a nice little diy 4 position indexer lol
I know for a fact that each side of the plate are not perfectly parallel (like 0.01mm over 70mm which equates to 0.008°) so not an issue for my hobby stuff. Haven't tested the runout yet but I'm fairly certain both spigots are concentric and if not it'll only be a tiny bit.
Overall it was much cheaper than buying a new plate/plate+chuck and a nice experience (apart from the sharp as f*** end mill cuttings which I have to thank for my phone fingerprint unlock not working till they heal...)
Now I'm done with this I can get back to finishing of my diy turbocharger based jet engine!
I found this 2lb hammer a while ago and needed to put a shaft on it.
I already have a 2lb hammer but the shaft is shorter than I'd like so decided to put a longer shaft on this one.
I have some Greenheart timber kicking about and often wondered what it would be like for a hammer shaft.
It was used back in the day for fishing rods so it is flexible but it is very prone to splitting along the grain.
Anyway only one way to find out.
I have a small ball pien hammer with a shaft that is really nice to use, so I modelled the shaft on that. The extra strength of the greenheart should compensate for the smaller cross sectional area and might also introduce a bit of spring, but we will see.
I turned the shaft roughly to shape on my wood lathe and then did the final shaping / thinning with one of @hotponyshoes old rasps which are fantastic for the job.
I haven’t put a wedge in it yet because I'm not sure of the final shape and I might round it off some more, so final sanding is still to do, however I quite like how it feels as it is.
Every year about this time we have our private sewage system (Klargester) serviced and the sludge pumped out. A few years ago their two big trucks managed to break one of my manhole covers, (which they denied having seen) so now I put traffic cones on them so there is no excuse. This year when placing the cones I noticed that two adjacent aluminium 'rodding eye covers' had been cracked at some time - probably not by them so I needed two new covers. I can buy the complete assembly for about £25 but NOT spare covers.
Handy having a CNC Plasma Table - turns out that the covers are true mathematical ellipses so easy to draw in Autocad - would have liked to cut them from 6 or 8 mm aluminium tread plate but none to hand, so the plate of 1/4" mild steel that was on the machine got used. A coat or two of cold galvanising will delay rusting a few weeks (!) but I'm sure they'll be fine for years.