dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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pretty sure its the end of the shaft as its threaded right to the end
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dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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Theres very little room behind but could 15mm in there should be strongI like the plate behind method at this point as I can't see all the details.
What's you thoughts on explosives ?
tell me more of this explosive method have you a proven record of success ?
I don't know about your one but normally those sprockets are on tapered shafts. Which is good and bad news, the good news is that once cracked it will just fall off and the bad news it takes an incredible amount of pressure to crack them.
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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Yeah im starting to think 10 tons is nowhere near enough and wondering if its worth the effort for a tiny drip , not even sure i will be able to easily get at the seal. Just dont want to give in without a fight
Erie Fred
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If you start using heat, your going to have to continue until it's off, as the heat may very well smoke the seal.
premmington
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Heat will also have the seal out of the SP ram on the puller being used in the picture - don't ask me how I know this...!
badabec
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I found it works well on ATMsTell me more of this explosive method have you a proven record of success ?
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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Kram
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The rust does look very dry, I'm sure you have been, but soak with more penetrating oil and mildly tapping it both directions will help to break up any rust bond.
Get the puller back on, then also mildly tapping sprocket from the back at several points.
Nomad
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Worth running a wire brush around the whole area - it might hilight if it's a single piece or if there's a collar / locking ring that's not obvious?
Any info online / on owners forums / workshop manuals that show how it goes together & comes apart?
Clutches on many classic brit bikes are on a tapered shaft.
To remove them the extractor screws onto the clutch (sprocket in your case) and a central bolt tightens onto the shaft.
Put the extractor under tension then use a medium (or FBH) hammer on the central bolt to shock the clutch off the taper.
Try something similar on yours, find or make an extractor (use the tapped threads or a 3 legged puller etc) to put tension on the assembly then use various hammers to shock it loose.
Any info online / on owners forums / workshop manuals that show how it goes together & comes apart?
Clutches on many classic brit bikes are on a tapered shaft.
To remove them the extractor screws onto the clutch (sprocket in your case) and a central bolt tightens onto the shaft.
Put the extractor under tension then use a medium (or FBH) hammer on the central bolt to shock the clutch off the taper.
Try something similar on yours, find or make an extractor (use the tapped threads or a 3 legged puller etc) to put tension on the assembly then use various hammers to shock it loose.
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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im going to get some of this on the way home as its supposed to be very good , cheapest place to get was Wickes
this is now puller 2.0 im gonna give it some gentle heat later and use a persuader too
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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It looks to me just a shaft with a keyway could be tapered but I dont think it is at the key looks parallel too
no sign of a locking ring the fact it had a bolted plate on the end to stop it coming off the shaft makes me certain , although its a good shout as ive been caught out by difficult to spot especially when rusty locking rings before
Unfortunately its quite a rare machine a Powerfab Samurai they didnt make very many its very difficult to find any info on them
This site is great for smaller machines
Powerfab towable diggers, excavators, 125 WTD, micro digger
Powerfab digger information, pictures, owners manual and technical information
www.oilyhands.co.uk
he has info on every model in the range but mine
do you have an air hammer? opr maybe a big sds drill?
it's surprising how effective an air hammer is (no idea if an SDS will do much but it's worth a try)
if you're feeling strong a decent big hammer in each hand battering both sides at the same time works well
it's surprising how effective an air hammer is (no idea if an SDS will do much but it's worth a try)
if you're feeling strong a decent big hammer in each hand battering both sides at the same time works well
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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Actually yeah I do have an air hammer pretty sure it has an attachment like a hammer too so worth a thought
Two hammers works pretty well on stuck balljoints so will give it a shot when i get back , might be a bit late for the racket an air hammer makes
Kram
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Not heard of it before. "Stays where it sprays, will not run off" are not what you want from a penetrating oil.im going to get some of this on the way home as its supposed to be very good , cheapest place to get was Wickes
I like this one
I dont know if many physical shops sell it but I've seen it in TheRange before.
dieselsamurai
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I know it says that but checked a few reviews and they really rate it for soaking in too
Auto express rated it top for rust penetration
Best penetrating fluids 2026 | Auto Express
Say goodbye to rusty fasteners with the best penetrating spray
www.autoexpress.co.uk
roofman
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Hire a 20T porta pack and jack and get some plate behind it with 25mm studded thread bar to the front behind the jack with more plate...put 20T and it and hit it with a sledge hammer..bet it will bang forward a bit at a time.
Erie Fred
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Design your puller to keep the ram's seal far enough away....Heat will also have the seal out of the SP ram on the puller being used in the picture - don't ask me how I know this...!
