Stihl Ms 361 straight piped by itself

[Memmeddu]

A title ,an image, how can I solve that

I swear I was just tuning it
13500 (500 short) RPMs with the 25" bar and I've heard the sound changing while the muffler was flying away.
No stripped threads but I've forgot to take the T27 wrench.
Knowing it'll be useless to apply locktite how should I avoid this problem.
I've seen it's a common issue with some Stihl models like the Ms 290 but this caught me little bit unprepared

 

[Migmac]

Buy a husqvarna

I’ve never had an exhaust fall off a saw. Any time I’ve worked on them I’ve just done the bolts up tight. I’d suggest just tighten them up and check periodically

 

[roofman]

same type engine as the concrete cutters...if done up tight mine never come undone

 

[JOEPRO]

Try loctite if you want but as others have said just tighten the bolts well and it shouldn't undo itself again. Most chain wrences include the required toex bit size on the end. So get yourself a genuine Stihl tool.

 

[Memmeddu]

Try loctite if you want but as others have said just tighten the bolts well and it shouldn't undo itself again. Most chain wrences include the required toex bit size on the end. So get yourself a genuine Stihl tool.

I have the husky tool for the consaw is the same tool apparently
13 and 19mm + T27
I've tightened them up when I've assembled but apparently it wasn't enough

 

[Kram]

While you have it off, put some helicoils and do it up tight.

 

[Norsk]

I have had them come loose a few times. Just check that none of the bolt holes/screws have slogged out.

If your not going to be working in a fire risk area rip out the spark arrestor in the muffler and take out the baffle. Retune for an almost 30% increase in free power. The saw will run cooler and last longer too.

Eta

There should be a gasket between muffler and cylinder head

 

[frank horton]

Prob the threads in the engine are junk now, vibes etc....if there is enough metal to use helicoils as above is the best way to go...
often there is access to the bak of the stud, then I'd use a nut n bolt....'where poss I use brass nuts...
the crank-case is made from rubbish ally so this kinda thing happens.....
I binned all my Stihl's for Echo....hahaha...

 

[Memmeddu]

While you have it off, put some helicoils and do it up tight.

I was thinking about doing that
I have an M6 set that I've bought to fix my Genset carburetor but I've already binned the old cylinder and I'm not going to my shed till next weekend so I can't check if it's the right size thread.
Helicoil should fit snugger and if I put longer bolts it would act like self locking nut.
It's just feeling strange to helicoil a brand new cylinder (1 and an half fuel tank only)

 

[JOEPRO]

I was thinking about doing that
I have an M6 set that I've bought to fix my Genset carburetor but I've already binned the old cylinder and I'm not going to my shed till next weekend so I can't check if it's the right size thread.
Helicoil should fit snugger and if I put longer bolts it would act like self locking nut.
It's just feeling strange to helicoil a brand new cylinder (1 and an half fuel tank only)

They should be M5 size but double check on your saw

 

[Memmeddu]

I have had them come loose a few times. Just check that none of the bolt holes/screws have slogged out.

Apparently they are not they look fine to me

If your not going to be working in a fire risk area rip out the spark arrestor in the muffler and take out the baffle. Retune for an almost 30% increase in free power. The saw will run cooler and last longer too.

I'm tempted but it's kinda hard to do that...
There's no spark arrestor for sure on mine, but the internal baffle is pretty complex to remove cause the muffler is not welded but the sheet metal is bent around one each other of the two halves of muffler.
So it's going to be a PITA to remove it .
Although it would be great for the ignition module as it seems that if you don't let the saw idling for at least 30 second before to shoot it off, it will fail.
At least that's what I've read here and there on the net.
I've already ported my little Jonsered and she was a little beast for having 40cc only (it was born as 36cc but I've put an husky 140 cylinder in it)

Eta

There should be a gasket between muffler and cylinder head

Yes I think they are two actually, one on each side of the heat shield

 

[Memmeddu]

They should be M5 size but double check on your saw

I thrust you enough about Stihl, to going straight on Amazon and buy an M5 V-coil set

 

[Memmeddu]

Prob the threads in the engine are junk now, vibes etc....if there is enough metal to use helicoils as above is the best way to go...
often there is access to the bak of the stud, then I'd use a nut n bolt....'where poss I use brass nuts...
the crank-case is made from rubbish ally so this kinda thing happens.....
I binned all my Stihl's for Echo....hahaha...

Cylinder is aftermarket and it looked to be made out of a very good aluminum casting with mirror finish machined surface.
And the piston too looks very nice it has PTFE on the skirts.
About the crankcase you are 100% right, it's made out of antimony alloy and it's impossible to weld.
I've tried thrust me but despite I'm pretty good at it(over car parts, rims, boats or whatever job it's took at the machine shop, I weld car body panels too)I couldn't really weld it no matter what frequency or tungsten or any other possible variables.

 

[Kram]

Buy a multi set. Rather than 10 quid each you can usually get M4 upto M12 for around 20 quid in a nicer metal case, and then you have it when you need it.

 

[Kram]

I binned all my Stihl's for Echo....hahaha...

I do like Echo a lot, but by far, Makita's cordless kit has got most of my money! £2800 at the last count and £3600 if you include the value of free promotion batteries.

 

[Memmeddu]

I do like Echo a lot, but by far, Makita's cordless kit has got most of my money! £2800 at the last count and £3600 if you include the value of free promotion batteries.

And don't forget Makita owns Dolmar or they are both owned by the same group
I'm loving Makita cordless tools and even clones are pretty good honestly

 

[Memmeddu]

Buy a multi set. Rather than 10 quid each you can usually get M4 upto M12 for around 20 quid in a nicer metal case, and then you have it when you need it.

I was thinking about that option too but V-coil are pretty expensive I'm buying them as I need them
Unfortunately they don't sell the taps only otherwise I'll be fully covered already

 

[northwest]

Not connected to your problem here but regarding chainsaws generally, it is the one tool I don't own nor had I any intention of owning, until yesterday. My missus has discovered them so one arrived yesterday AND a long pole mounted one

Yes I know, Mr Riskit wouldn't have a chainsaw! Now we have two and they ARE bloody dangerous, I had to borrow next doors Wheelie bin she cut that much down AND i got to jump up and down in them to get it all in. Not a fun day today.

 

[Memmeddu]

Not connected to your problem here but regarding chainsaws generally, it is the one tool I don't own nor had I any intention of owning, until yesterday. My missus has discovered them so one arrived yesterday AND a long pole mounted one

Yes I know, Mr Riskit wouldn't have a chainsaw! Now we have two and they ARE bloody dangerous, I had to borrow next doors Wheelie bin she cut that much down AND i got to jump up and down in them to get it all in. Not a fun day today.

I love them as much as they scare me and that's point.
I'm a machinist by trade, and lathes scare me and it's how things should be.
I was scared about grinders and the day I was confident with one kicked back at me, needed new jeans and underwear that day.
Chainsaws are both dangerous and safe at the same time, they require as much attention as any other piece of equipment.
The only difference is that those devil creatures are pretty quick at killing people.
At least you'll won't suffer for long time.
Heavy and powerful saws are much safer than smaller and lightweight ones cause they have gravity.
Sharpened chains are less likely to kickback theorically cause they'll cut instead of catching on the wood.
Most of the chainsaws injuries occur (chain actually cutting meat instead of wood)while cleaning up fell trees, or due to the chain flying away because they came loose or snaps
Someone put the saw too close sending the chain directly to their leg.
There are common sense related accidents, like carrying the saw idling without the brake engaged, in a split second you stump on something and fall on the full speed chain cause you instinctively close your hands squizing the trigger.
It's not a tool it's more like a loadedl machinegun without a safety on.


You're not cutting something, turn the engine off, engage the brake and remove the hand from the throttle .
Anyways all that might not be enough and I hope to never discover if it's enough or not.
Chaps are a must have no matter how big is the saw

 

[JOEPRO]

I was thinking about that option too but V-coil are pretty expensive I'm buying them as I need them
Unfortunately they don't sell the taps only otherwise I'll be fully covered already

The C coil kits are great quality and worth the £ IMO