Stihl Chainsaw???

[pidgeon chit welder]

Testing that chain saw.
Get hold of a flexi tube connecting pressure gauge and whip out the spark plug, look for 18 to 24 PSI dry test .. add a teaspoon of light oil to the cylinder and pull it over , if it increases by a large amount walk away the barrel & piston is shot and it's a fair bet that the crankcase seals will also be Koofed.
On the bar look for flats worn where the chain runs in the bar groove if you see these and there is any evidence of the bar being scalloped out or burrs on the edges of the bar .. its a new one of each.
slip the side cover off and look at the drive teeth any deep gouging will usually see you needing a new one .

Check the brake stop by revving it up holding the rpm and knock the brake on it should stop the chain running but not quite stall the machine but it should make it stutter some what.

I have repaired hundreds and hundreds of chainsaws and firmly believe that like women .. you don't buy a second hand one unless you give it a good going over first.

For amateurs just don't go for the second hand version of either unless you have experience.

 

[Omniata]

here is a tread for you to read but hope you will never need it

I was thinking of doing something like that to keep me busy into the start of next year, maybe not such an overhaul but at least a good clean and spruce up

Testing that chain saw.
Get hold of a flexi tube connecting pressure gauge and whip out the spark plug, look for 18 to 24 PSI dry test .. add a teaspoon of light oil to the cylinder and pull it over , if it increases by a large amount walk away the barrel & piston is shot and it's a fair bet that the crankcase seals will also be Koofed.

For amateurs just don't go for the second hand version of either unless you have experience.

I'll see what I can do, idea with the pressure being to see that it vents properly I take it?
If absolutely necessary a new pistons only £30 and a cylinder £100, still cheaper than a new one. And will give plenty more years of service...

I was planning to get a new bar and chain for it too to give it a Christmas present...
Old ones look a tad "used"...

Oh and I'll second you on that last note

 

[Omniata]

Someones put £80 on it over me, not going for it now in case it's got "faults"

Definitely not taking a risk, could be fine but not worth the hassle to find out

Thinking about an MS type, new, instead, but maybe going to bite the bullet and get a new Stihl that will go up to 24" or so bar...
Maybe even a Husky...

 

[SC_BK]

I've got an ms250 (45cc) with a 16" bar, alright little saw, obviously not a huge engine but it's a nice light saw and I was recently cutting logs up to about 3ft with it

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Someones put £80 on it over me, not going for it now in case it's got "faults"

Definitely not taking a risk, could be fine but not worth the hassle to find out

Thinking about an MS type, new, instead, but maybe going to bite the bullet and get a new Stihl that will go up to 24" or so bar...
Maybe even a Husky...

Sthil used to be very good Johnners were the bees knees so the prices flew high.

The compression test is to see if the barrel & piston sealing is good . Low reading indicates wear , adding oil then getting a big increase means oil has sealed up the wear on the temporary basis of a few seconds so it is very very worn. You only need to pull it over twice to get the reading ..none of this 55 pulls then look at the reading for you wil have pumped it up.

Combustion gasses will escape down into the crank case and cause all sorts of probs with the carburation and performance ( non performance ) of the chain saw / disc cutter. .



You can also get this crank case type prob if the silencer is full of oily crudd which prevents speedy exhausting of burnt combustiuon gasses.( too much oil in mix or poor combusition/carburation
You would notice a thick black oil deposit in the outlet of the silencer.

Can often be cleaned by removing the scilencer , heating it red hot with a decent blow lamp welding flame and once the carbon staerts to burn GENTLY
drop knockit around the steel topped work bench .. don't blow the burning carbon to speed things up with an air line or you will oxy cut the darn thing like I did once or twice

 

[Damaged]

Can't recall the model numbers but I have two relatively new saws (< 2 years old) 1 x Stihl, 1 x Husky both with 24" bars.

In a direct comparison the Stihl seems to have more torque but is heavier than the Husky, as I'm lucky I use the Stihl at the start of the day then switch to the Husky.

HTH's,

Mick.

 

[scarecrow]

nearly every forester I have seen uses husky but they spend most of the time cutting off the light branches off trees were a light saw is essential but I would prefer stihl for cutting firewood because the extra weight means you have to use less downforce with a probably
edged saw you are more or less just holding it