Stick welding is difficult. Who knew.

[minimutly]

I suggest get some 1.6mm 6013 rods. I like them, very easy to control, start easy, great for tacking any thickness. They do burn quick but your only task is to keep the arc length short - I find it easy on these. On very thin stuff under 1mm you may want under 30 amps, on 2mm thickness or higher, I use 60A.

Stainless rods are great for the slags ability to ping off as it cools. Wear safety glasses!

Are you some kind of masochist? 1.6mm rods belong in the bin, at least that's what I found when I tried to weld with them. Maybe things have moved on...

 

[Kram]

As I said, I like them. Other rods can be hard to start but 1.6's you can run them hot with no risk of burning holes in your part, great for tacking. They start easy and your only job is to push faster than they are burning. Once your used to them, you can turn it down a bit and weld thin sheet quite easy.

 

[minimutly]

As I said, I like them. Other rods can be hard to start but 1.6's you can run them hot with no risk of burning holes in your part, great for tacking. They start easy and your only job is to push faster than they are burning. Once your used to them, you can turn it down a bit and weld thin sheet quite easy.

I really struggled to form a bead, just too thin and floppy to control accurately.

 

[Kram]

Thats interesting as a new 1.6mm rod is shorter and easier for me to control than a 3.2mm.
Its been a while since Ive done any welding, I remember practising with the first inch or two. On 2.5 and 3.2mm rods I think I was cutting them in half.

 

[Trevorleach]

6013s are terrible but at least they restart without protest. I'm glad I learned using those. 7018 feels like cheating.

Are 7018 really that much nicer to weld with? are they okay on vertical up and ovehead?
I have always used 6013 and the slag tun off can be annoying at times.

 

[Richiew]

The weld pool on 7018 is much better defined and clearer to see. You can see what's going on making everything much easier. Definitely worth a try.

I always weld on the flat if I can help it but they are an all position rod.

 

[BrokenBiker]

The weld pool on 7018 is much better defined and clearer to see. You can see what's going on making everything much easier. Definitely worth a try.

I always weld on the flat if I can help it but they are an all position rod.

'If' you have a welder that will run them

 

[minimutly]

Thats interesting as a new 1.6mm rod is shorter and easier for me to control than a 3.2mm.
Its been a while since Ive done any welding, I remember practising with the first inch or two. On 2.5 and 3.2mm rods I think I was cutting them in half.

Yes I've done that, then I learned to use my left hand to steady the rod until it burnt down enough not to need steadying (or got so hot my glove wasn't giving enough protection).

 

[Richiew]

'If' you have a welder that will run them

I think pretty much any inverter will run them. I have four, of varying descriptions, none have an OCV higher than 60 and they all manage.

 

[BrokenBiker]

they all manage.

there is a difference between managing and running them well though...

 

[Richiew]

7018 peeler. Parweld 160.

 

[BrokenBiker]

6013 peeler, hitbox chinese tig welder...ive never known the rod or the machine to be the issue in the majority of cases

 

[Erie Fred]

Spotted this in the local tractor supply store yesterday:

Hobart® 7018 XLM

www.hobartbrothers.com

IIRC 10lb tin was $45

 

[Turbo]

I think pretty much any inverter will run them. I have four, of varying descriptions, none have an OCV higher than 60 and they all manage.

My thermal arc tig inverter will not run a 7018 nicely. It struggles to start them unless you raise the amps a lot but then they run too hot due to the higher amps.
On paper it has a high enough ocv but I guess the programming isn't correct.

 

[Munkul]

My thermal arc tig inverter will not run a 7018 nicely. It struggles to start them unless you raise the amps a lot but then they run too hot due to the higher amps.
On paper it has a high enough ocv but I guess the programming isn't correct.

Some TIG sets, even inverters, traditionally aren't as good at stick welding as proper stick sets. Something to do with the circuitry design, I believe.

 

[Erie Fred]

Some TIG sets, even inverters, traditionally aren't as good at stick welding as proper stick sets. Something to do with the circuitry design, I believe.

Look at the Lincoln books (the old ones) describing the variable voltage stick welders M/G sets (and engine driven), and how it effects the welding.