Stick out with a Gas lens

[Jim Davey]

Depends how bad the tungsten is oxidised but other than making the arc a little harder to initiate the oxide layer is usually harmless.

 

[Richard.]

Yes. The oxidation on the tungsten can be transferred to the next weld if it's not re prepped

 

[norlander]

Must admit I stopped cutting back and cleaning the tungsten for ally as I was dipping it a lot when using my big torch-actually sometimes its a dip, other times I stuff the filler into the tungsten.
It seemed to carry on welding OK, but I don't do anything critical, so unseen contamination is not really a problem for my lil boxes.
Also, I was in a pro shop and saw their tungstens were not shiny bright, which is another reason I got less fanatical about the tungstens.

 

[Richard.]

You'll only improve things for yourself further if you keep your tungsten clean. If I was to contaminate my tungsten through dipping or rod contact I'd immediately re prep it. Even if it's not critical work because of what it does to the arc. The next weld is gonna be hard work with a miss shaped unstable arc. Don't cut little corners on your welding prep because it's for DIY purpose. This is the best type of work to perfect everything because you have the time on your hands. And you'll be a better welder for doing so. I'm meticulous about every bit of it and I do get some lovely results because of it.

 

[norlander]

Thats true, one of the best bits of kit I bought was Hudmuts tungsten grinder, when you chop and regrind, you get a smashin arc to restart with, I should have pointed out I am limited at moment as I need more collets and back caps etc for my new CK torch, but I'll be sorting that on my next UK trip shortly-ie of I chop the tungsten down too much the torch cannot grip it, I sharpen both ends to get round that, and now I am back home I will stock up on tungstens.

The next weld is gonna be hard work with a miss shaped unstable arc.

Nope, not found that to be a problem, maybe its down to the degree of contamination or something.

 

[langy]

I must admit I never dip the tungsten on aluminium but occasionally have touched the tungsten with the rod and I always redress straightaway otherwise the arc jumps around.

 

[Mr shiney]

You'll only improve things for yourself further if you keep your tungsten clean. If I was to contaminate my tungsten through dipping or rod contact I'd immediately re prep it. Even if it's not critical work because of what it does to the arc. The next weld is gonna be hard work with a miss shaped unstable arc. Don't cut little corners on your welding prep because it's for DIY purpose. This is the best type of work to perfect everything because you have the time on your hands. And you'll be a better welder for doing so. I'm meticulous about every bit of it and I do get some lovely results because of it.

Great advice.

 

[norlander]

Doh! I do redress the tungsten when I contaminate it, I was gettiing oxydisation mixed up with contamination, when I had the valved lift tig torch I was forever cleaning up the tungstens, as I had a bad habit of flicking the valve shut with my thumb when I snapped out, so hardly any post flow, I was cleaning up after every weld at one point, then started leaving it until the oxydisation was getting really smeggy, then woke up and left the valve alone for a few secs.
The other fault I forgot to mention is I get my cadence wrong and the end of the filler gets a great blob on the end,and then I lose me torch angle and open up the arc, but I'm getting there on that one, and the pedal is a great help now I am getting used to it.
I've got the CK gas saver fitted now and am ramping up the post flow, I just did a tube onto a plate in ali,used a fair bit of stick out-about 8mm-if that counts as a fair bit of stick out?, one thing I did find well handy is the CK torch is a flexy (not the flexloc one-just a bendy head), just a lil tweak was enuf to get in there at a nice angle.

 

[Leetig]

Flex head torches are a must!!
Says the man who still hasn't bought one yet! Ha.

 

[Maker]

Flex head torches are a must!!
Says the man who still hasn't bought one yet! Ha.

I thought they just cost more and didn't last as long. I'd rather have a rigid head or save up for a flex loc.

 

[norlander]

I thought they just cost more and didn't last as long. I'd rather have a rigid head or save up for a flex loc.

I'd say you are right. When I opened the box, there was a leaflet inside saying don't flex the head too far, and limit the amount of times you flex the head. So I guess there have been problems.
Later on I saw the flex loc type torches Jim Davey sells, and realised that was what I wanted. So if I stick with the TIG welding, I'll be saving up for one of those.

 

[Richard.]

I use a flex head weldcraft. I would not start bending it at 90degrees beyond it's point of return but I do find it to be a little god send purely from a comfort point of view. Before carrying out a weld that may require some skilled movement of torch I will see how comfortable my hands are producing this "dry" I'll then bend my torch neck in a position so that it makes for smoother more comfortable position. I've not had the pleasure of trying a flex loc but I'd imagine they are good for this exact thing.

 

[norlander]

I did some more practice today and was glad of the flexy, I need to tweak it a few mm just to get a nice angle to run along a fillet I was trying. Not experienced enought to say, but think there might be case for having a flexy and a flexloc in your armoury, just wondering now if the bits on the flex loc head might get in the way on some jobs for some chaps.
Anyway, worked for me today.

 

[wheresmejumper]

The flexloc is great for weird stuff like manifold collectors or funny shaped objects that you normally couldn't balance a finger on and would have to freehand it.they take serious amps for their size.fillets and butts not worth the bother of changing torch.
eventually even the best flex heads break,but the chinese ones are useless as they are too flexy.some of the magnify any shake as they are like a weak spring bouncing around

 

[langy]

I thought they just cost more and didn't last as long. I'd rather have a rigid head or save up for a flex loc.

I've only ever changed one flexy head in 10 years, buy decent to start with and they will last

 

[norlander]

I've only ever changed one flexy head in 10 years, buy decent to start with and they will last

If they don't break under the use they get from you, then mine will see me out

 

[langy]

If they don't break under the use they get from you, then mine will see me out

I don't bend them to stupid angles as its obvious they won't last.

 

[norlander]

I don't bend them to stupid angles as its obvious they won't last.

yep, what I found is I only need to tweak it a few mm, do a dry run, check angles, final tweak, dry run, light up. I then cock up of course, but I'm working on that, but after this mornings practice, I'm sold on mine, and I think the simple flexi will do me for my current skill level and projects I do at the moment.