Steel joist - 8 foot span

[gaz1]

its better to get the underneath steel galvanised as it will last years more than normal steel you intend to fit under there

thats just painted on the outide whilst it has a little cost involved in the long run it will be better off for you

you quoted 8ft span what is the real size of the wagon sides

noting the real weight at the moment is the wood sides not the apex points

the other question id like to ask is would your prefer to loose 4" in height of the cabin or do you want to stand the whole cabin onto a surface only

 

[Wildefalcon]

It's lasted eighty years without galv. I'm going to paint it with zinc rich epoxy after mechanical and chemical derust, and it won't be exposed to salt, so it will outlast me. Plus lots of underbody wax.

Sadly, galvanising isn't an option as that would cost thousands when you consider transport and crane work. Getting a tank big enough to take it would also be a challenge, the outfits with bigger tanks don't like old stuff around here.

I really don't understand why I'd go up 4 inches in the floor, though, just not getting that point, sorry.. The box section will give me the strength I need and tie the side rails together. As suggested,I can always stuff slabs and slates under the box if there is any residual bounce.

Thanks for the videos!

 

[gaz1]

It's lasted eighty years without galv. I'm going to paint it with zinc rich epoxy after mechanical and chemical derust, and it won't be exposed to salt, so it will outlast me. Plus lots of underbody wax.

if we want to get factual it was stood on 2 good thick beams with outrunners for a goods wagon on the railway

similar to a wagons trailer

with better steel or iron whichever was used more

that lasted the test of time and it was lead coated paint so lasted 80 years without galv would be the correct reference

 

[Wildefalcon]

Yes, and zinc rich epoxy on to properly prepared steel covered in underbody wax will last just as well.

Especially if it's resting on creosote/pitch soaked sleepers.

 

[brightspark]

I'd be going with this option, have seen them used before and was surprised how well they worked

joined up portacabins use flat steel sandwiched between the joists walls and the roof. its a nightmare to demolish one they did one where i was working . better them than me

 

[Wildefalcon]

The steel box can be welded into the rails I think it will tighten the whole thing up.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Latest comment from management is to put in a glass floor and suspend it over the brook.

 

[Pete.]

Latest comment from management is to put in a glass floor and suspend it over the brook.

Worth about 15 minutes novelty value and a whole lot of pain for you. I'd be giving that one the elbow...

 

[Wildefalcon]

I think her seeing me repeatedly hitting the table with my forehead adequately conveyed that to her.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Okay, my thinking has changed.

I'm slow, but I get there.

The original plan was based on the assumption that the floor boards were junkers, and I could do a floating floor using junkers clips.

The floor isn't junkers so I'm back to nailing into battens, which means that the box doesn't make such good sense anymore.

So....

Use the same size timber but fix them in pairs with steel strips sandwiched in between. Bolt right through. The floor will be the same thickness without the spring.

this becomes the inspiration.

If I weld in some 90x6 flat then I can reuse the existing timber, but in the correct orientation. And secret nail to that.

As the flat will be in tension then it won't be wobbling. A couple of cross pieces will make it sound.

And, it's cheaper!

 

[highseas]

Jesus lads put away the engineering books and micrometers.

Just bang some 60x40 under their tall sides up slather it with jotun and get ya wood bolted down. It will be fine

 

[Wildefalcon]

True, but if I can cut £40 out of the cost, I can spend it on something important. Like cider. Or bits for the Landrover.

 

[sako243]

@8ob's probably got some 21x9" girders still knocking around. That's the best suggestion so far

 

[Wildefalcon]

No.

Admittedly, I do need to go to Surrey and catch up with some people. But I'm not bringing bits of bridges back in the Volvo.

 

[James1979]

No.

Admittedly, I do need to go to Surrey and catch up with some people. But I'm not bringing bits of bridges back in the Volvo.

No sense of adventure

 

[Wildefalcon]

No sense of adventure

Thank you!

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Latest comment from management is to put in a glass floor and suspend it over the brook.

You need to stop her reading those 'style' magazines....

 

[gaz1]

what the flooring would have looked like with the train deck is similar to the floor on these

build info

 

[gaz1]

now ive looked at this reference

British Rail 12 ton vented wagon conversion

I've permission from management to document the restoration of her office build. This is based on a 12 ton goods wagon that had been previously converted into a garden room office space. The intention is to have create a workspace that's sympathetic to the wagon's original character but not a...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

and this pic and noted its support holding the roof up


whilst the ends are only c section as support for the woods the main support is the middle angle irons

now id use 100x50 5mm box section for the support in red
the purple is c channel or 5mm welded angle iron
the green is a water run off 3mm angle iron can be used here

now the black lines can be 5mm angle iron welded together creating a t bar of 10mm that is cut into the box sectiom slotted into it and welded up remember the c setion is only support either end if the wood boards was running upwards it would give good area to fasten too you could also fit one in the middle as well

a plate welded to the 10mm will give enough support for the c section to be welded too or make the plate into a t bar again


the red part is also the main part which id suggest getting galvanised

i will explain the green this is welded in as a full internal frame its fixed ontop of the red i would suggesting setting it back from the original frame 5-10mm back
the outside red parts are packed to give 5-10mm this will give you a full drip edge of any water that may get inside of those woods will be able to drain out and also be aired out

it maybe best to strip it all out all the woods off the side and metal sides theres an advatage to this it means you can use galvanised bars longer ones lets say 5-6" long
when fitting new frames you can use some longer bolts so it holds the internal wood frame which has roofing felt upon it which is then pulled down the gap of the angle iron making the insides fully water proofed and insulated

you can also insulate the floor as no water will get to them due to the 3mm angle iron the only part which may catch water is the doorway where the angle iron is trimed lower and id make this area replacable when needed

doorway floor i cant see rest of the floor and some of those woods look poor yes they can go closest to the doorway for replacement when needed but they are difficult to stager well if they run up and down like the above picture then you could stager at first black line and middle line and the highest line rather well

 

[gaz1]

for the wall insulation info you have to go back to the concrete garages

for the bolt info 1 longer bolt near the bottom one in the middle its helpful to have it and one at the top

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www.mig-welding.co.uk

Concrete Garage Office Advice

I have a decent size (apart from head room!) concrete garage, I would like a small office/ clean room in one of the corners, the actual construction of the room I'm fine with, but I have concerns over building the room walls directly next to the concrete panels of the garage, the concrete panels...

www.mig-welding.co.uk