Steel joist - 8 foot span

[Wildefalcon]

I'm replacing the floor in a railway goods wagon as the current domestic chore.

The previous owner fitted a nice floor on shallow wood sticks, but there's was a lot of deflection in the sticks, too shallow.

There isn't a lot of depth in the frame so decent wooden joists are out, and as I prefer steel, I am going to use steel joists.

The frame allows for 45mm but I'm happy to have the joist hang down a bit below the frame, so my initial thoughts were 60x40x4 steel box, but I'd like reassurance I'm in the right area with that.

I was also considering tee section or angle section, as it would be more appropriate and all surfaces would be accessable for corrosion treating.

Has anyone done similar?

 

[Burdekin]

Easier and cheaper way would be to pack the old floor up. The floor at our cottage is done like that and I added the same to the deck I built. Concrete blocks packed with roof slates.

The box section you suggest would be plenty strong but quite expensive.

 

[Agroshield]

What is it going to be sat on? In other words, why does the span need to be eight feet? If you can put in an intermediate support and reduce the span by half, the deflection will reduce.

If it is DIY, perhaps buy an I-beam that is too deep (cheap) and convert it into two T-sections with a grinder. Use a few lengths of railway track.

 

[Pete.]

Use the same size timber but fix them in pairs with steel strips sandwiched in between. Bolt right through. The floor will be the same thickness without the spring.

 

[Wildefalcon]

All good points! The steel is easy for me, and has the advantage of tie-ing the side rails together. The side rails have bowed out quite a bit, and I'll ratchet them together before I weld in the box.

Sorry, should have mentioned that, it's a big part of the decision.

 

[8ob]

Why not just bolt the thing down onto a concrete base? It would sort out the integrity of the sides and floor in one hit.

Bob

 

[Wildefalcon]

It's going on patio slabs on sand. A base would be difficult, everything has to be brought in by hand. Plus management will probably change her mind a dozen times as to location. I'm actually tempted to put it on castors for this reason.

 

[grim_d]

Use the same size timber but fix them in pairs with steel strips sandwiched in between. Bolt right through. The floor will be the same thickness without the spring.

Known as flitch beams.

 

[Milkybars]

It think the box will give you some much needed rigidty, and allow you to move it about easier according to managment wims and desires

 

[pedrobedro]

The floor joists in it are the wrong way on. 4x2 the right way up would cure the bounce.

 

[Wildefalcon]

The floor joists in it are the wrong way on. 4x2 the right way up would cure the bounce.

Yes, that IS the problem. Rebating them into the rails would work to have them the right way, otherwise the floor is too high. But I'm quite certain the box sections are the right choice, all considered. I'll spray cavity wax into them once fitted.

Thanks, all, for your thoughts, appreciated.

 

[gaz1]

I'm replacing the floor in a railway goods wagon as the current domestic chore.

The previous owner fitted a nice floor on shallow wood sticks, but there's was a lot of deflection in the sticks, too shallow.

There isn't a lot of depth in the frame so decent wooden joists are out, and as I prefer steel, I am going to use steel joists.

The frame allows for 45mm but I'm happy to have the joist hang down a bit below the frame, so my initial thoughts were 60x40x4 steel box, but I'd like reassurance I'm in the right area with that.

I was also considering tee section or angle section, as it would be more appropriate and all surfaces would be accessable for corrosion treating.

Has anyone done similar?

All good points! The steel is easy for me, and has the advantage of tie-ing the side rails together. The side rails have bowed out quite a bit, and I'll ratchet them together before I weld in the box.

Sorry, should have mentioned that, it's a big part of the decision.

It's going on patio slabs on sand. A base would be difficult, everything has to be brought in by hand. Plus management will probably change her mind a dozen times as to location. I'm actually tempted to put it on castors for this reason.

im going to be quiet blunt here

first off you have to consider its original use with the correct flooring for the railway wagon /other option

so if your intention is what you have said without height your really living in cloud cuckoo land

yes you can use rollers to move around a shed but its flooring is much stronger than what you are suggesting

so your shed is based upon a cattle wagon

 

[Wildefalcon]

Thanks, I don't understand your point, sorry, I'm a bit thick at the moment.


The original floor was probably timber an inch thick, and was also resting on the bogie chassis, which is now gone.

Or do you mean the comment on the castors? That was mostly a joke.

 

[gaz1]

the other alternative is the shepards hut

so your dealing with 8" not 4 if you want to insulate it

a caravan chasis is the same

 

[8ob]

Thanks, I don't understand your point.

The original floor was probably timber an inch thick, and was also resting on the bogie chassis, which is now gone.

What's your suggestion?

It would be very unforum like not to throw a migtube vid at that.

 

[gaz1]

there is a boat trolley reference if you want wheels on it

Boat Trolley

Hi, The airport cargo ones are shin height, I wonder how I know that. Colin They aren’t the most stable of things either. Especially when the dolly is 90 degrees

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[Wildefalcon]

Sorry, not getting the point. Are you saying the steel won't work?

We did discuss putting a bogie under it, but I'm against the idea, I want it to be just a single step up from the patio, so it will be on sleepers once the final resting place had been decided. She agrees.

I know that part of her wants it to be a proper wagon, but that's daft, the patio isn't up to it and I'm not getting into the business of plate laying!!

 

[indy4x]

Use the same size timber but fix them in pairs with steel strips sandwiched in between. Bolt right through. The floor will be the same thickness without the spring.

I'd be going with this option, have seen them used before and was surprised how well they worked

 

[gaz1]

Sorry, not getting the point. Are you saying the steel won't work?

We did discuss putting a bogie under it, but I'm against the idea, I want it to be just a single step up from the patio, so it will be on sleepers once the final resting place had been decided. She agrees.

I know that part of her wants it to be a proper wagon, but that's daft, the patio isn't up to it and I'm not getting into the business of plate laying!!

if you went down the shepards hut reference you would have a better chance in moving it

however i would suggest building it and getting it galvanised or buy it your choice

the other option is for you and the other half to decide on its final resting place and go from there same reference for a large shed build or a portacabin install on the property

otherwise its

 

[Wildefalcon]

Ah! Dump the wagon and build something else?

I think that's a really bad idea, as we already have the wagon. And she's kill me if I suggested getting rid of it.

If it was just the risk of divorce, then I might chance it, but she'd kill me and bury me under the wagon.

So, no.

I'll weld the steel in, it will be a good job.

I'll use rollers under sleepers to get it it's final location, that's no bother, I've moved bigger and heavier stuff that way, so I'm confident that I can handle that.