Starting Bicycle trailer

[Hammy]

Hi all well never welded before and this is my first ever project. as I don't drive I need a way of collecting metal I find so a bike trailer will be perfect. Here are a few starter pics and Will upload photos as it progresses.

1 lesson learnt tho is to always wear long sleeve tops as woke up this morning with uv burnt arms and hand not nice lol.

 

[T0rnado69]

some good information for you.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

These hitches work well tbf.
Have a double for the kids and thanks to the balance point of the trailer it's not putting a lot of load on that point.

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bik...ESKfxdm92__6gX9TmB10fABvR3N4mD1hoCKa8QAvD_BwE

 

[Hammy]

This is how I'm Thinking of doin the hitch just a little tidier hopefully. Ow and tow bar

Should I puts the wheels in the centre or slightly back ? Length is 100cm/1m

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Slightly back. Enough to load the tow point and stop it seasawing?
My pic is exaggerated as when sitting most of the weight will be on the wheels.

Advantage to the single point from the axle is its not in the way when not towing and doesn't need to be removed for normal use.

 

[Hammy]

Rather than going out and then up I'm goin straight up then bolt it through so it can be set at different heights for different bikes

 

[Hammy]

Ive looked at that hitch design but seems to complicated compared to the 1 I put up. Plus once not in use can just undo the bolt and wheels for easy storage. Thanks guys for your input on wheel placement as I was planning on putting them centre

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Ive looked at that hitch design but seems to complicated compared to the 1 I put up. Plus once not in use can just undo the bolt and wheels for easy storage. Thanks guys for your input on wheel placement as I was planning on putting them centre

Personally I'd find a 10 quid kid carrier on Facebook. There always coming up cheap and butcher what I needed off of it for my own build.
Firm beliver in reusing and modifying existing designs to make my life easier and most importantly. Quicker.

 

[Bsmith]

Wherever you put them, make sure the wheel alignment is parallel and that the wheels are an equal distance from the centre of the hitch. Take a piece of string from the centre of the hitch and run it to each wheel to make sure they are both the same.

 

[james butler]

Something to watch for, maybe, and another reason to have the wheels further back...

Having the hitch on the seatpost will tend to try to lift the bike rear wheel under braking.

and if braking around a corner will push the bike over against the way your leaning. the lower the tow hitch the better.

 

[MCKDAVID]

Personally I'd find a 10 quid kid carrier on Facebook. There always coming up cheap and butcher what I needed off of it for my own build.
Firm beliver in reusing and modifying existing designs to make my life easier and most importantly. Quicker.

exactly, brother in law bought one on a whim thinking it would be great idea to get fit with the family etc... think it got used half a dozen times if that. Tried to sell it, no interest, basically gave it away in the end. probably pick them up for peanuts. Give you a good starting point

That said I've nothing against a good project, on the contrary, way too many on at any one time. That's the reason why I'm more realistic now, simplify where I can.

 

[Ton-up]

Rather than going out and then up I'm goin straight up then bolt it through so it can be set at different heights for different bikes

What you have done there is make a twisting load that will, in time, rip the metal or weld. If you run the vertical box section down past the frame, then have another piece going back to the centre bar, you will stop twisting and it will act like a leg to keep the front iff the floor when un-hitched.

 

[Hammy]

What do you mean a twisting load sorry but I'm completely new to any type of metal work?

 

[Hammy]

This is where I got the idea from for the build. But as I don't have a metal bender I decided to use square tube which I can reinforce with L brackets

 

[fixedfixer]

This style is best for handilng. Everyting else tips over whilst cornering. Fixed rigid to rear axle and tilts with the bike when cornering. Harder to make but a dream to tow. https://www.adventureoutdoor.co/trailers/ct1

 

[Hammy]

Looks very good that 1 but then again doesn't look big anuf. Plus needs to be wide anuf as got a few gas bottles dotted around the local area which I plan to make a wood stove and a meat smoker. next project that is 1 thing at a time

 

[gaz1]

if your wanting to carry loads via a push bike stop what your doing and take a better look

you have to think about weight your going to pull with a bicycle fine on flats but not hills

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/handy-little-surprise.75222/#post-1038993

https://cycletote.com/trailers/cargo-and-utility-trailers/

https://www.bikesatwork.com/

for a more heavy duty trailer a third wheel needs to be used

https://newatlas.com/carla-cargo-bike-trailer/43044/

you can carry 882 lb (400 kg) on some newer bike trailers

 

[fixedfixer]

Gas bottles! - you need something up to the task. See here for plans http://www.atomiczombie.com/Transporter Upright Cargo Bike.aspx

 

[Nick67GT]

I've got a complete set of plans for an alternative to one of these:


































Only trouble is, its a bit outdated

 

[Spot the welders dog]

Hmm: I'm not convinced attaching the hitch to the bike post is the ideal way to be pulling a bit of weight. OK I guess if you are pulling something un-valuable like a child at no real speed on a Sunday through the park.

From what I have learned since using the trailer I built -
Ideally you want the hitch to move around all axis. Think when you are 'leaning in a corner'; you want the bike to tilt but trailer to remain flat. Or, if you are bumping up curbs or such.
I used the wheelchair castor as it is what I had laying around, but equally, If you have any spare bike wheels perhaps you can butcher the axle and bearings into a swiverly thing. Hack a compressor coupler to that and you have your release mech.
If I were tempted to build a MK2 I would definitely think of building in some sort of 'absorption' into the towing arm. Cannot remember the correct terminology but 'buffeting or snatching' will have to do This becomes more apparent for me if I tow heavy loads.

**I would be very wary of welding indoors! The hot sparks WILL damage your glass and floor (Or you may be making space on the trailer for a tent!)
Are you using shielded wire, hence no shrould?

Finally: Don't underestimate how much damage you can do to yourself welding without covering up - please!