Started welding on my civic

[Oldbanger]

Hi guys i thought Id finally bite the bullet and start welding my civic .
The car was quite badly rusted - door sills , rear wheel arches and qp's needed attention. About 8 months ago I cut all the rust out leaving myself with a big gaping hole on both sides

Since then Ive been messing around making panels and practicing my welding and adding to my tool collection in the process .

Heres my first section of the n/s/r wheel arch...

The new metal seems to be in fairly solid , i blew a few holes on the original stuff but Ill weld them before i slap on any sealer.

Constructive critisism welcome as always - and thanks for all your help and advice so far guys.

 

[DrNik]

welding looks great to me, and work so far is good too, id be inclined to trim the inner wing before welding the outer arch on, also paint the inner arch with anti rust or something similar,tack the outer arch on and then dont weld more that a cm in one go, or the panels could warp, tacking all the way round and joining up the tacks with more tacks its slow but gives best results

 

[anjum]

When welding the outside put plenty of protection on the rest of the bodywork and glass to avoid damage from weld splatter and grinding sparks.

Apply some primer (preferably epoxy) before the seam sealer. Use PU sealer/ mastic.

Also similarily protect the inside of the outer arch after welding with primer and seam sealer.

 

[Oldbanger]

Cheers Dr Nik and thankyou both for the advise . I was under the impression that it would be better to apply the seam sealer to bare metal
My revised plan:
- weld a similar piece at the back of the inner arch
- match up the qp to reference how much I should trim off the arch repair
- cut it and coat it in a weld through primer ,seam sealer on welds
- fit and weld door sill repair panel(s)
- coat it in a weld through primer ,seam sealer on welds , waxoyl the cavity
- fit and weld the qp (filling in tacks)
- weld inner to outer arch
- waxoyl the cavity
- stonechip the wheel arch

Do you have any recommendations on a sealer or weld through primer - Ive read that weld through isnt the best for corrosion protection?

Thanks again

 

[anjum]

Weld through primer is only used for the actual joint itself, well as I use it, and I don't find it particularily good as a rust barrier.
I would still look at a good primer such as epoxy (which you can mix and paint on with a brush) then a pu seam sealer. Apply it to the rear joint if you can't get access after the front panel is on. But not too close as it will burn off or catch fire.

I definitely would NOT waxoyl before welding the outside as you are likely to set the whole car on fire! You can always apply that afterwards though various openings. If you can get epoxy primer into the cavities after welding then that would be worthwhile. I don't know if you've got any spraying equipment.

Again epoxy primer the wheel arch before the stone chip.

 

[Oldbanger]

Cheers anjum , ill look into an epoxy primer , I have a compressor for small paint jobs but wouldnt mind using a brush on type because once the qp and interior trim are in place you wont see it .
Ill leave waxoyl until the welding has been completed too
Also been wondering what to use for the outer qp seam ... Ive seen a few people on tinternet using a rust convertor and then short strand fibreglass - not sure yet???

Thanks again . Regards . Omar

 

[anjum]

you can brush or spray epoxy primers so no need to buy different types. I use the Lechler one.

On the outside qp seam, use metal ready, clean off with panel wipe then epoxy primer and fill on top with normal filler, sand to shape then either epoxy primer again (definitley where bare metal shows) or 2k primer filler.

on the inside qp seam ie wheel arch - epoxy primer, seam sealer and then stone chip.

 

[Oldbanger]

well today was great fun.... not!!!
I was crouched inside the wheel arch , my auto mask kept flickering because I had a lamp in there with me.... kept forgetting to switch between work and welding gloves so my fingers are all burned , the spatter kept landing in my lap and I found that I had to push the torch very close otherwise the wire would burn back - so I could hardly see.
I did manage to get the patch in place but there was a LOT of grinding and re welding.
Dont suppose there are any tips for welding overhead in enclosed areas..... HELP!!! please?!?

 

[zardoz]

I did manage to get the patch in place but there was a LOT of grinding and re welding.
Dont suppose there are any tips for welding overhead in enclosed areas..... HELP!!! please?!?

Wear a fire proof welding cap or make some leather hood of some sort.

Do the buttons of your overall right up to the top and pull the collar up

(I am asuming you already have flame proof overalls ?)

 

[Oldbanger]

Wear a fire proof welding cap or make some leather hood of some sort.

(I am asuming you already have flame proof overalls ?)

No Im afraid not , work trousers and a hooded top - got sick of sparps hitting my head so I invested in a proban hood..... might need to get overalls too.

 

[zardoz]

No Im afraid not , work trousers and a hooded top - got sick of sparps hitting my head so I invested in a proban hood..... might need to get overalls too.

Machinmart do them for about £40, but you can get ones off ebay for as little as £12 or 15 if your lucky. £20 or so normally.

Tight spaces overhead, often need extra light. It can be a pain as you mentioned, to have a lead lamp in there, as it mesess with the auto on a helmet. Do you have an old non battery dark glass helmet ?

PS: sometimes its cheaper to get a proban jacket and kecks as seperate. I got mine for a fiver each. Jackets too small now though

 

[Oldbanger]

Thanks - Ill have a look on ebay just now .
Ive got the shield that came with my welder , hadnt really thought to use it ,but it might be better in this situation. cheers zardos