unfortunately I already cleaned the surface after welding, so cant take pics. Yes i cleaned outside and inside of both pieces prior to welding. First flap wheel sanding, then aceton, then stainless steel rotary brush. The weld was dark grey on the outside, and also on the inside. I was set in DCSP at around 120 amps.
- Thread starter SBK
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We work in a dye house. So all machines are 316 stainless. All the machines are at least 20+ years old and have been threw thousands of heating cycles with steam and have constantly water/salt and costic solutions runnibg threw them.
A coworker told me that its problematic because the metal has lost its characteristics of stainless steel 316??
What yall think?
A coworker told me that its problematic because the metal has lost its characteristics of stainless steel 316??
What yall think?
langy
langys rodshop
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Too much heat ???
the repair man
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In work we have to purge all work with OFN ( oxygen free nitrogen ) this is mostly for brazing, but for the same reasons. I don't actually know if its cheaper than argon, I expect it is, might be worth trying on stainless.
I havent read all of this thread but if Ive picked it up correctly we are talking about old stainless
I see salt mentioned
salt is enemy no1 for stainless
stainless exposed to salt and heat for a long time will get "old"...........it corrodes. It rusts.
I see salt mentioned
salt is enemy no1 for stainless
stainless exposed to salt and heat for a long time will get "old"...........it corrodes. It rusts.
