square 12ft by 12ft

[pidgeon chit welder]

I take it that maybe it is to simples, for you! Being a fitter/welder now for over 30 years now, this was one of the frist things i learnt! For squaring up a job.

Dave

Dave , I too would use the diagonal measurement if the bits were ready cut , marking a base out is slightly different for initally you have no straight reference lines to work with nor any fixed points.

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

a wooden base to put my new shed on. it is going to be raised off of the ground by 1ft

Are you using sleepers type wood base or is it going to be on a pier type platform?


If a pier platform : -
It may be better to rough mark out the squared size and dig post holes then set the pier posts in concrete, knocking the posts upright and into line ( recheck after an hour or so to make sure nothing has moved . Bunging posts in with hammer and quick fix spikes or knocking down pilolt holes is quite difficult to get them in square or vertical. Let it all set then use a lazer to mark the heights , square off and then saw to correct height and then build the frame work .

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

Times by √2, which you don't need a calculator for.

Please explain ..... It looks like you know something I do not know , I had to learn to find the square root by using the factorizing method

ie
Find the square root of 2025
2025 = 25 x81
therefore
square root of 2025 = square root of 25 x square root of 81
therefore = 5 x 9
= 45

Though it does get a pain when you have to factorize to decimal places.

 

[grandads_shed]

Are you using sleepers type wood base or is it going to be on a pier type platform?


If a pier platform : -
It may be better to rough mark out the squared size and dig post holes then set the pier posts in concrete, knocking the posts upright and into line ( recheck after an hour or so to make sure nothing has moved . Bunging posts in with hammer and quick fix spikes or knocking down pilolt holes is quite difficult to get them in suare or vertical. Let it all set then use a lazer to mark the heights , square off and then saw to correct height and then build the frame work .

i was going to use a wooden frame sitting on upright postes knocked into the ground,

the frame will be made out of 2x7inch timbers makeing a criss cross of 1 by 2 foot this i hope will allow me to put heavy items in the shed (like 3L car engines) whilst i work on them.

i have yet to work out what to use for the floor, i was going to use 1inch ply, but need something to cover it, as i will be welding in it and useing a plasma, so i need to make it fire proof yet safe to walk on in all weathers.

i cannot afford the shed and put a concrete floor.

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

i was going to use a wooden frame sitting on upright postes knocked into the ground,

the frame will be made out of 2x7inch timbers makeing a criss cross of 1 by 2 foot this i hope will allow me to put heavy items in the shed (like 3L car engines) whilst i work on them.

i have yet to work out what to use for the floor, i was going to use 1inch ply, but need something to cover it, as i will be welding in it and useing a plasma, so i need to make it fire proof yet safe to walk on in all weathers.

i cannot afford the shed and put a concrete floor.

Do you have the wood or are you going to purchase it ? Because paving slabs set on 4 inches of mixed ballast with a lean 12 to 1 of ordinary portland cement mixed in dry should be OK?
The mix will set as a lean mix and be very very enduring especially if it is sat directly in the earth where it will harden over the next 28 years or so
But a WPM is reccommended to help reduce rot

 

[grandads_shed]

Do you have the wood or are you going to purchase it?

i have bouht some as it was very cheap. but not enough to do half of the base.
i can use that for something else if any other ideas come up

 

[pidgeon chit welder]

i have bouht some as it was very cheap. but not enough to do half of the base.
i can use that for something else if any other ideas come up

Can you get hold of seconds bricks .. my last pallet cost me less than £30 collected from the Builders merchants and a big 1 tone bag of mixed ballast .
dig the tray for the base down in the ground and line it with a WPM sheet
Again lay the base in lean mix dry to say 75 mm , tamp it and level it and then soak the bricks in water lay on the tamped lean mix tamp them in flat . Once dry run a bag of silversand and OPC mixed dry and sweep in the cracks ., spray with hose to start the cure .

Hey presto .... a shed floor 6 inches thick that resist water coming up through it that is fire resistant and one that can be skimmed/screeded with a fine mortar & PVA bonder mix to 1/2 inch or so at a later date when you can afford it.

 

[graffian]

Please explain ..... It looks like you know something I do not know , I had to learn to find the square root by using the factorizing method

√2025, no idea, I would have to use a calculator;-)
I am no good at maths, but √2 is one of the numbers that's very usefull, I can also remember √3 on 2, it's all about how often you use it;-)
I assumed everyone who had to work stuff like this out would remember these numbers;-)

 

[grandads_shed]

thanks pidgeon chit welder
i will look into the local prices to do this,
only problem it getting the water to the site. i live in a upstairs flat. and do not realy want to try and hang a hose full of water out of the window

pity i cannot get 13ft scafold boards locally, the ones that are no longer used for scafolding.