Pete.
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- Thread starter E T
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E T
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My cross slide leadscrew is definitely the 7/16"×2.5mm one, but I opted to go for the 7/16"×10TPI imperial one for now.
I think I can live with the minute difference. No problem for the rough cuts and I plan to make a DTI bracket on the rear of the saddle for the cross slide for the finishing cuts. Also the metric leadscrew and nut of the topslide are in very good shape so I can use that to dial in the finish cut.
I ordered all the felt wicks and some more stuff from the US including the take-up needle roller bearing @Richiew linked to and the cross slide nut. New imperial leadscrew is coming from Australia.
Found all the right spindle oils, iso vg22, vg32 and vg68 in 2 liter cans here in the Netherlands. Finding the right oil wasn't the problem, but in small quantities was.
Took the apron apart and cleaned all the bits. Next in line is the gearbox.
I think I can live with the minute difference. No problem for the rough cuts and I plan to make a DTI bracket on the rear of the saddle for the cross slide for the finishing cuts. Also the metric leadscrew and nut of the topslide are in very good shape so I can use that to dial in the finish cut.
I ordered all the felt wicks and some more stuff from the US including the take-up needle roller bearing @Richiew linked to and the cross slide nut. New imperial leadscrew is coming from Australia.
Found all the right spindle oils, iso vg22, vg32 and vg68 in 2 liter cans here in the Netherlands. Finding the right oil wasn't the problem, but in small quantities was.
Took the apron apart and cleaned all the bits. Next in line is the gearbox.
God mode restorations
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I would have that screw cutting box apart definitely. There some proper nasty crud on those gears
E T
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Yes, I'm going to do it all. Headstock, gearbox, saddle, apron, UMD. New felt wicks in everything, clean out all the oil passages.
I found quite a lot of 75 year old cosmoline in the apron. There's bound to be more in the other bits.
E T
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Slowly getting there.
Apron and saddle cleaned and assembled with new wicks. New imperial spindle and nut on the crossslide.
Tailstock, topslide, 4-way toolpost block, micrometer carriage stop and both chucks disassembled and cleaned.
Made a chuck key for the 4 jaw because that was missing.
Disassembled the gearbox now and the bits are soaking in the parts washer.
I do like that beefy 4-way toolpost. Feels very solid.
Apron and saddle cleaned and assembled with new wicks. New imperial spindle and nut on the crossslide.
Tailstock, topslide, 4-way toolpost block, micrometer carriage stop and both chucks disassembled and cleaned.
Made a chuck key for the 4 jaw because that was missing.
Disassembled the gearbox now and the bits are soaking in the parts washer.
I do like that beefy 4-way toolpost. Feels very solid.
E T
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Some before and after picture's.
Headstock is up next.
And if anybody wonders. No, I'm not going to paint it. I HATE painting.
Gotta finish the South Bend because the Chinese minilathe called it quits last weekend and I really miss a working lathe.
Headstock is up next.
And if anybody wonders. No, I'm not going to paint it. I HATE painting.
Gotta finish the South Bend because the Chinese minilathe called it quits last weekend and I really miss a working lathe.
Last edited:
God mode restorations
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Painting aint that bad. Just a little patients is needed
E T
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I do have patience when tinkering with mechanical bits because I love that, but painting always feels like a chore.
I kinda like that 75 year old patina. It doesn't have to look new as long as it's mechanically sound.
E T
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Ok, when I'm retired I'll take it apart again and paint it. Promise.
E T
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Got the headstock done but forgot to take pictures.
Bearing surfaces on spindle and backgear shaft still look like new. Play in spindle bearings is still within the specs so didn't need to mess with the shims.
Did the take up bearing mod @Richiew linked to. Thanks for that.
New V-belt on motor and glued a new serpentine belt. Let the glue dry for 24hr.
Started of by letting just the spindle run at slow speed and when everything seemed allright meshed the tumbler gears to check the gearbox. After that checked the workings of the backgear. Everything worked as it should. No strange noises and checking with a infrared temp gun revealed that everything stayed nice and cool.
Made the first chips yesterday evening and than ran into a problem.
Longitudinal power feed worked perfect, but the power crossfeed would stop and the clutch would start slipping.
Manual crossfeed no problem, so my first thought was that there was someting wrong in the apron like worn shoes in the clutch.
But I could take fairly heavy cuts on Longitudinal power feed no problem so that couldn't be it.
I found that the gear on the crossfeed spindle has a different tooth shape than the original spindle so it doesn't mesh correct with the gear in the apron causing it to bind up on power feed and make the clutch slip.
That spindle came from Australia and is from the Hercus clone and was supposed to be compatible with the south bend 9".
Apparently it is not, or that gear was cut with the wrong cutter. I'll contact the seller.
For now I'm back to the original, little bit worn, metric spindle and nut and after adjusting the backlash found it isn't too bad after all.
Power crossfeed works like a dream now.
Here are some pics. The spindle with the short gear with fatter tooth tips is the original.
Bearing surfaces on spindle and backgear shaft still look like new. Play in spindle bearings is still within the specs so didn't need to mess with the shims.
Did the take up bearing mod @Richiew linked to. Thanks for that.
New V-belt on motor and glued a new serpentine belt. Let the glue dry for 24hr.
Started of by letting just the spindle run at slow speed and when everything seemed allright meshed the tumbler gears to check the gearbox. After that checked the workings of the backgear. Everything worked as it should. No strange noises and checking with a infrared temp gun revealed that everything stayed nice and cool.
Made the first chips yesterday evening and than ran into a problem.
Longitudinal power feed worked perfect, but the power crossfeed would stop and the clutch would start slipping.
Manual crossfeed no problem, so my first thought was that there was someting wrong in the apron like worn shoes in the clutch.
But I could take fairly heavy cuts on Longitudinal power feed no problem so that couldn't be it.
I found that the gear on the crossfeed spindle has a different tooth shape than the original spindle so it doesn't mesh correct with the gear in the apron causing it to bind up on power feed and make the clutch slip.
That spindle came from Australia and is from the Hercus clone and was supposed to be compatible with the south bend 9".
Apparently it is not, or that gear was cut with the wrong cutter. I'll contact the seller.
For now I'm back to the original, little bit worn, metric spindle and nut and after adjusting the backlash found it isn't too bad after all.
Power crossfeed works like a dream now.
Here are some pics. The spindle with the short gear with fatter tooth tips is the original.
E T
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- 592
- Location
- Netherlands
It looks like I solved the power feed problem with the new cross slide spindle.
The diameter of the shoulder that the gear is on was 0.13mm bigger than on the original South Bend spindle.
As soon as I tightened up the cross feed spindle collar that shoulder would rub on the inside of the bore in the saddle once every revolution.
Releasing the collar just a tiny bit would free it up.
So I chucked it up in the 4-jaw and dialled it in and took a skim of the shoulder.
Power cross feed is working as it should now.
The diameter of the shoulder that the gear is on was 0.13mm bigger than on the original South Bend spindle.
As soon as I tightened up the cross feed spindle collar that shoulder would rub on the inside of the bore in the saddle once every revolution.
Releasing the collar just a tiny bit would free it up.
So I chucked it up in the 4-jaw and dialled it in and took a skim of the shoulder.
Power cross feed is working as it should now.
