pointer2null
Ready, Fire, Aim!
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Always the same on forums. Go on the Fazer forum and ask them about countersteering. Withing minutes the thread will be 50 posts long and a raging argument will have broken out. 
- Thread starter pre67
- Start date
Always the same on forums. Go on the Fazer forum and ask them about countersteering. Withing minutes the thread will be 50 posts long and a raging argument will have broken out. For me
It would depend on the price of a 240v solenoid, versus the price of a 24v transformer and a 24v solenoid .
I would probably just hook whatever I did onto the R-S connection of the main relay, unless I was going to use some sort of a purge circuit.
Robert
bloody hell theres loads to read where do i start
this is all a bit over my head with the option of wireing in a 12/24v low voltage solenoid
so by the looks of things im going to go for the 230volt solenoid as from what i have read it looks like it will be alot easier to wire in
and i dont like the idear of blowing anying as it would be verey hard to get spares for my mig
this is the solenoid i have in mind
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120451192145&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123
AVAILABLE IN 24V~, 48V~, 110V~, 230V~, 400V~, 12VDC, AND 24VDC. and there all £20 so its not a matter of price
i ask the guy selling them whos is on hear i beleave about wireing and this is what he sed
(Hi Loz. I have just been reading your thread just before you sent this message. The solenoid you need is a 230 volt solenoid and I will supply fitting instructions and a basic wiring diagram showing how to wire it. If you have any problems, I am happy to help. regards Les)
so i think im going to go ahead with the 230 from what i have read
cheers for all the help the guys and especially pointer2null top man knows his stuff
loz
this is all a bit over my head with the option of wireing in a 12/24v low voltage solenoid
so by the looks of things im going to go for the 230volt solenoid as from what i have read it looks like it will be alot easier to wire in
and i dont like the idear of blowing anying as it would be verey hard to get spares for my mig
this is the solenoid i have in mind
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120451192145&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123
AVAILABLE IN 24V~, 48V~, 110V~, 230V~, 400V~, 12VDC, AND 24VDC. and there all £20 so its not a matter of price
i ask the guy selling them whos is on hear i beleave about wireing and this is what he sed
(Hi Loz. I have just been reading your thread just before you sent this message. The solenoid you need is a 230 volt solenoid and I will supply fitting instructions and a basic wiring diagram showing how to wire it. If you have any problems, I am happy to help. regards Les)
so i think im going to go ahead with the 230 from what i have read
cheers for all the help the guys and especially pointer2null top man knows his stuff
loz
pointer2null
Ready, Fire, Aim!
- Messages
- 144
If the guy supplying the solenoid can supply a diagram thats brilliant. If you have any problem we're here to make things more complicated
It looks like Brown would hook to the F1 wire on the relay and the Blue wire would hook to the Neutral on the main switch.
The green and yellow would go to the case earth/ground.
Just check with a meter to make sure, that the power to the relay comes on when the torch button is keyed.
Robert
The green and yellow would go to the case earth/ground.
Just check with a meter to make sure, that the power to the relay comes on when the torch button is keyed.
Robert
In the photo of your relay, I could see one Blue wire hooked to the COM terminal the other Blue wire was stenciled F1.
If you unplug your welder turn it on and hook your meter from the COM wire on the relay, to the each of the wires on the plug that carry 220v into the welder.
The Neutral wire is the one that shows high or infinite resistance.
Remember unplug the welder from the power.
Robert
If you unplug your welder turn it on and hook your meter from the COM wire on the relay, to the each of the wires on the plug that carry 220v into the welder.
The Neutral wire is the one that shows high or infinite resistance.
Remember unplug the welder from the power.
Robert
right i think i no where what you meen naw
so the brown wire on the solenoid shoud go to one of the blue wires on the relay
and the blue wire on the solenoid gose to the blue wire on the main power lead comeing in
so i need to find of out of them 2 blue wires witch becomes live wen the trigger is pulled
so the brown wire on the solenoid shoud go to one of the blue wires on the relay
and the blue wire on the solenoid gose to the blue wire on the main power lead comeing in
so i need to find of out of them 2 blue wires witch becomes live wen the trigger is pulled
You hook the brown wire to the relay output, to the terminal that is live when the trigger is pulled.
The top of the relay has two blue wires hooked to it one is labeled Com, if it is wired correctly the power goes into the relay on the Com terminal and when it is triggered power come out of the other terminal, which may be labeled NO.
You hook the blue wire to the neutral, hopefully somewhere after it comes out of the main power switch.
The top of the relay has two blue wires hooked to it one is labeled Com, if it is wired correctly the power goes into the relay on the Com terminal and when it is triggered power come out of the other terminal, which may be labeled NO.
You hook the blue wire to the neutral, hopefully somewhere after it comes out of the main power switch.
pointer2null
Ready, Fire, Aim!
- Messages
- 144
Have a look at the image you posted (http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s201/pre67loz/SDC12426.jpg) you can see the two terminals labeled com and NO (normally open).
the brown live wire on the solonoid goes to the NO contact (you can check by using your multi meter to check this NO contact goes live when the trigger is pressed).
The blue wire can go to the neutral connection just after (or even on) the main on/off switch.
The green earth connects to either the earth wire as it enters the machine or any part of the metal chassis.
the brown live wire on the solonoid goes to the NO contact (you can check by using your multi meter to check this NO contact goes live when the trigger is pressed).
The blue wire can go to the neutral connection just after (or even on) the main on/off switch.
The green earth connects to either the earth wire as it enters the machine or any part of the metal chassis.
ok so the blue wire should go the the brown wire on the right of the relay in that pic
and then the blue wire should go to the on/off switch on the neutral only problem been then is i havent got a on/off switch as such its bult in to the voltage/power selector so when its on the off position its off and then wen its turn to 1 it is on
and the earth i no where that gose
and then the blue wire should go to the on/off switch on the neutral only problem been then is i havent got a on/off switch as such its bult in to the voltage/power selector so when its on the off position its off and then wen its turn to 1 it is on
and the earth i no where that gose
pointer2null
Ready, Fire, Aim!
- Messages
- 144
You can follow the earth wire (marked E on the pic) and see where it's attached to the welder - connect the green wire from the relay to the same point.
You can follow the blue wire (marked N on the pic) and see where it connects to the welder - connect the blue wire from the relay to this.
Of the two blue wires that come out of the relay (marked L on the pic) use the multi meter and see which one goes live. You should find one is live all the time and one only when you pull the trigger. Connect the brown wire of the relay to the wire that goes live when you pull the trigger.
You won't be able to blow up the solonid by connecting it wrong (unless you connect to the wire that carries the high current to the welding wire). So when you have connected it check the solonoid operates correctly.
One word of warning, you MUST connect the earth wire - either to the metal chassis of the welder or to the incoming earth wire.
