Soldering iron for car wiring advice on buying one ?

[vw1]

I would like to buy a electric soldering iron for car wiring , as you know car wires are all different size so the more powerful the better I think. Can anyone help on what wattage I need ?

If for my vw beetle resto .

 

[rtbcomp]

25-30 watt should do you.

I only use soldered joints for bullet-connectors, otherwise I use crimps, they grip the insulation, you don't get solder wicking up the wire.

Be sure to use electrical flux-cored solder, never plumbing solder and never-ever use aggressive plumbing flux.

 

[vw1]

25-30 watt should do you.

I only use soldered joints for bullet-connectors, otherwise I use crimps, they grip the insulation, you don't get solder wicking up the wire.

Be sure to use electrical flux-cored solder, never plumbing solder and never-ever use aggressive plumbing flux.

Ok did not know that thank you . So the solder is coated with the flux ?

 

[rtbcomp]

I use 24 SWG flux cored, 60% tin, 40% lead.

 

[vw1]

I use 24 SWG flux cored, 60% tin, 40% lead.

Good man many thanks ..

 

[Fazerruss]

Antex are good reliable irons.

 

[Kayos]

I have a small Antex one I use for delicate jobs and a bigger Maplin cheapo for everything else.

I also had a several year break from anything electronic and when I started again I could only find lead free solder, as we had switched to this for plumbing I was used to using it

 

[bc30se]

I prefer using soldering guns and I use two - 60W - will do connections up to 4mm2, 100w - not very comfortable under 2.5mm because of high heat input, but sure it will easily join 4mm2 and above.

For the rest I am using a pen torch with a soldering tip - CFH, this will cover up to 10mm2 and will also help to shrik thermal tubes, anything above - that will be a propane torch but you will only need it on battery clamps.

If you are about to work on automotive wiring, invest in good insulation tapes - my choice is COROPLAST, especially the one that you use for the dashboard wiring - with a thick furry layer - COROPLAST 833mpx.

Sometimes when you do the ecu wiring and you end up with about 100 connections to do.. (don't ask me how I know)
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...WvrTwqnPRbQ/w1207-h905-no/20150825_143358.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AAABU0/QD68Ni6sZ20/w1207-h905-no/DSC_0141.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAABV4/Xqnu9-53B64/w1207-h905-no/DSC_0146.jpg

In such cases... I prefer not to solder. I am using HI connectors (wire tube connectors)

What I do is... I get rid of the plastic end and I am left wit the tube only. Then if I am to join 2x 1.5mm2 wires I will use 2.5mm2 tube. Will insert the wires from both sides and then clamp with HI pliers

It produces a rectangular connection, a very strong one, really fast and convenient to use.

IF you plan to work on bigger size wires you can invest in such:

I hope you understand.

 

[Cyberprog]

You can get dual entry ferrules (which is what I've always called them) for multiple wires joining together.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I've several soldering irons from tiny for circuit boards to huge that will do battery sized cable (ex Electricity board item !) However for general purpose car work a pistol / trigger instant heat type is useful. Mine came from Lidl and was something like £7.99

 

[optima21]

I use a 50 watt antex temperature controlled iron, and normally use a 2.3mm bit, but for heavier work I use a 6mm bit. I've had this for nearly 20 years now and its still going strong.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131605495208

and a picture of it being used to rewire the engine and engine bay on my car earlier this year

 

[vw1]

Is that a mk2f polo boss or a golf ?

 

[optima21]

a mk2f polo GT

 

[bc30se]

vw party here I see...

 

[langy]

I would like to buy a electric soldering iron for car wiring , as you know car wires are all different size so the more powerful the better I think. Can anyone help on what wattage I need ?

If for my vw beetle resto .

Soldering not really suitable for cars as the solder wicks up the wire and a bit of vibration does the rest

 

[Fazerruss]

Soldering not really suitable for cars as the solder wicks up the wire and a bit of vibration does the rest

I have to respectfully disagree. I've have done loads of automotive wiring over the years on anything from caravans, cars motor bikes and even radio controlled stuff and I find soldering is the best connection type. With solder it does wick up slightly but this helps spread the stress away from the joint to nothing up the wire.
Solder is also better in humid conditions as the conductors are fused together by the solder. No water can then get between the mating connection causing oxidisation and then poor conductivity.

 

[brightspark]

i have soldered the lugs on my welding cables before and with constant flex they didnt last long . there now crimped which give better flexibility . soldering smaller cables is fine and will make a better joint providing there well fastened and not flexed

 

[zx9]

I use a 50 watt antex temperature controlled iron, and normally use a 2.3mm bit, but for heavier work I use a 6mm bit. I've had this for nearly 20 years now and its still going strong.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131605495208

...

That's the one I use, when I was more 'hands on' it would be used for two or three hours a day and last three or four years before it needed a new element, unfortunately the replacement elements cost almost as much as a new iron.

 

[bigegg]

When I've soldered cables in my vans (for the trailer connector), I wrap both wires with thin solder wire, cover in aluminium foil, then heat with a gas lighter.

When the joint begins to smoke (flux burning off) - I remove the aluminium foil for a near-perfect soldered joint.

Never used a soldering iron

 

[The Devils Reject]

I've got a little gas one which came from Aldi about 5 years ago. Still going strong and very handy for keeping in the on-board toolkit for the inevitable Landy leccy gremlins...