yep 1 to 2 mph seems reasonable to me
- Thread starter Baloo
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sj low range is 2 to 1 as standard im sure i have my old 4.6 to 1 somewhere out of my rockcrawler that would be the one to usesj low range is a long way short of 4 to 1 tho isn't it ?
flick the axle over and mount it the other way around and have the transfer behind the axle, could disengage drive and just have a pto output
and flipping the axle has merit, gold star to you sir, will mock that up tomorrow
so things have moved on a little i now have the start of a chassis, i relented and bought a length of 100x50x3mm box wow £92 im so out of touch lol whilst i was recovering from that price i started thinking about how to clean up the engine and box so it all looks pretty, i had seen on ebay and amazon wet sand blasting kits to convert your jet wash to a wet sand blaster , now im an old sceptic and dismissed them as a waste of time 20 or 30 quid down the drain along with the water i thought but egged on by the wife who wants her garden ornaments blasted so she can repaint them i spent my 25 quid
im often wrong lol because it works lol
i tried it on the old alternator which is sized solid so nothing to loose
was green and crabby 10 seconds with the jetwash and its like new , clearly im not sure doing this to a new one would a good idea but this one was going in the skip but i might strip it and see whats what
so ive got the engine block and gearbox to do once ive made blanking plates for all the ports
im often wrong lol because it works lol
i tried it on the old alternator which is sized solid so nothing to loose
was green and crabby 10 seconds with the jetwash and its like new , clearly im not sure doing this to a new one would a good idea but this one was going in the skip but i might strip it and see whats what
so ive got the engine block and gearbox to do once ive made blanking plates for all the ports
alternator... that's the vacuum pump for the brakes on the back of it... you can dump that
also, check the diesel lift pump on the other side of the engine, they don't last forever, we used to get about 50k miles out of them... even legit ford ones aren't expensive.... worth checking if you have any problems :-)
also, check the diesel lift pump on the other side of the engine, they don't last forever, we used to get about 50k miles out of them... even legit ford ones aren't expensive.... worth checking if you have any problems :-)
yep i wont be using that vac pump i dont see the need for servo brakes on a tractor, will probably use a suzuki alternator or what ever else i can find on the shelf
now the lift pump has already fallen to bits and made its journey to the bin, i was thinking of mounting the fuel tank above the engine old tractor style, maybe i can find a bit of 10" dia erw tube and i could cap the ends and use that for a fuel tank, the diesel can free fall to the injector pump below it and i can mount the 2 bonnet sides of the top of the tank
thank you
Probably still need a lift pump. Tractors like a MF35 had a lift pump and the tank was above the engine.
You could use a tank off a Chinese generator. They hold around 5 gallons. Someone on here might have something suitable.
@8ob
@Martin Hocking
will put a new lift pump on my shopping list then lol
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I have some Villiers tanks, but you'd need a few of them as they only hold about a gallon each
lol it would need a few wouldent it. not sure how much diesel l need to carry 10 gallons i guessI have some Villiers tanks, but you'd need a few of them as they only hold about a gallon each
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calling knighty or anyone else familiar with these old Di ford transit engines , there is this solenoid on the side of the injector pump
i believe it advances the timing by pulling on the lever when its energized with 12v it does this when the engine is cold to help it start instead of heater plugs
then when its warmed up this switch cuts the 12v feed to the solenoid and the pumps drops back to normal run
my question is have i understood its operation right and is it either on or off no modulation going on ? i cant see it with that switch, so i can replace the solenoid with an old style choke cable ?, the switch can just work a light on the dashboard to remind me to push the "choke" in
i believe it advances the timing by pulling on the lever when its energized with 12v it does this when the engine is cold to help it start instead of heater plugs
then when its warmed up this switch cuts the 12v feed to the solenoid and the pumps drops back to normal run
my question is have i understood its operation right and is it either on or off no modulation going on ? i cant see it with that switch, so i can replace the solenoid with an old style choke cable ?, the switch can just work a light on the dashboard to remind me to push the "choke" in
Islander71
Member
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My elderly Ford 4000 tractor has the tank higher than the injector pump and doesn't have a lift pump. Been fine working like that from new 60 years ago. One less thing to go wrong.
Sounds about right for the operation, but the engine will likely still start fine without any of it connected/operational.
MF and DB both used lift pumps on their tractors. It would give the injector pump an easier time plus make it a lot easier to bleed the system as the lift pump usually has an external lever to work the pump by hand.
Does the transit have a lift pump in the tank as well?
hi, i dont think the transit did have a pump in the tank but its long gone so hard to check now, the ford lift pump dosent appear to have a lever to hand prime but they are cheap enough so will buy one as mine was smashed on receipt of the engine
gaz1
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ford diesel 1.8 escort, orion had a hand pump priming bulb on them the transits also had the same
pugs 1.9 also had a hand priming pump
309, 405, 406
if you was bone idol you went through 2 batterys to pump the diesel as you couldnt do it with one battery
the hand pump was fitted after the filter as you had to use it to after filter changes
the filter was at the top of the engine
pugs 1.9 also had a hand priming pump
309, 405, 406
if you was bone idol you went through 2 batterys to pump the diesel as you couldnt do it with one battery
the hand pump was fitted after the filter as you had to use it to after filter changes
the filter was at the top of the engine
no tanks pumps at all for these, just the lift pump on the side
you're right about the solenoid, it's the cold start advance, you only need it to start then release right away - ran one when I was a kid with a choke cable attached to it after the solenoid died on a weekend so no problem there, test it with 12v... if it works it's probably easier to wire to a 12v push button than it is to route a choke cable (we were stuck on a winter weekend)
that switch has nothing to do with it, iirc that's your oil pressure switch
thermostat is on the thermostat housing top middle front of the engine - careful with the thermostat housing they go brittle
also, there's an aluminium hose barb coming out of the hear on the front, top right edge as you look atht engine - those go brittle too
you could fit a power steering pump as a hydraulic pump too? lower pressure/flow than a proper pump but a piece of cake... good enough for a log splitter?
you're right about the solenoid, it's the cold start advance, you only need it to start then release right away - ran one when I was a kid with a choke cable attached to it after the solenoid died on a weekend so no problem there, test it with 12v... if it works it's probably easier to wire to a 12v push button than it is to route a choke cable (we were stuck on a winter weekend)
that switch has nothing to do with it, iirc that's your oil pressure switch
thermostat is on the thermostat housing top middle front of the engine - careful with the thermostat housing they go brittle
also, there's an aluminium hose barb coming out of the hear on the front, top right edge as you look atht engine - those go brittle too
you could fit a power steering pump as a hydraulic pump too? lower pressure/flow than a proper pump but a piece of cake... good enough for a log splitter?
i had this blue switch down as the oil pressure switch as its single wire and just earths when no pressure
the other one has 2 terminals an in and an out im guessing but will test with a meter
there is a switch in what that remains of the thermostat housing 2 wire so i guess it could be for the cold start solenoid ??? i need to find a wiring diagram for the Di engine
thermostat housing was very brittle must be a common problem as ebay is full of new ones all made in shiney aluminum
but i might make my own as i dont need so many connections and i can make the water outlet point at the rad
and lastly im going to wet sand blast the whole engine as the mess its in now upsets my ocd lol
