Sliding Door

[Rob 88"]

After working for about 2 years in the new workshop, i think its about time a door should be put on to close the 5360mm x 2930mm opening and protect tools and materials. We put fasteners in the wall to hold the fixing for the sliding track before if was plastered. As the building walls are heavily insulated, the door should be insulated aswell, so i was thinking along the lines 50mm kingspan to fit in the 50mm box frame, but my question is what would be a suitable sized box section for the frame, i want to clad the front with galvanized sheeting and the inside with ply so i tack drawings and sheets on. Any guidance for frame design and construction aswell as locking would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
oh ye, what methods are used to keep them draught tight, those brush things ?

Sound

 

[brightspark]

as u said make out of 50x50 square box . 50mm kingspan will fit in the pannel sandwiched between the plywood and the outer tin sheeting. smart building by the way

 

[Shox Dr]

I take it you are going to make 2, that meet in the middle. You don't need to worry too much about bracing as they hang from the rollers, so twisting is not such a problem.

I'd make the frame as you are with verticle's spaced 400-600 mm. It will give the door some substance and also give you some thing to fasten to.

Draft proofing sliding doors is a mare, I've just fitted 9 8x8'6" sliding doors to a Wood moulding shed, it's all down to how much you would to spend. I did some searching and found these guys to be a cheapest for brush.

Security is another big problem, they really need to run in a channel on the ground.
with tower type bolts stopping them from opening on the outside edges, along with some thing in the middle to stop them from been pushed in.

Not the best type of door, for that application to be honest

 

[KemppiFrog]

Since there is have another access door, you can arrange security fixings to tie the door(s) to the inner edges of the frame and to each other. So no outside locks. Second the 50x50 frame with 50x30 bracing.
+2 for the nice building.

 

[Hitch]

Id make the frame from 50mm box, position the infill rails to suit the sheets you will be cladding it with. No need for diagonals imo as its hung evenly, and the sheets will give it a lot of stiffness.

Locking, normally put a simple spring bolt or two on the insides reveal of the door frame, possibly with padlocks, as you have a side door that easy.

If you havn't got a channel in the floor, a couple of U shaped brackets at the ends to stop it pulling outwards would be a good compromise.

 

[Rob 88"]

Thanks once again for all the advice and helpfull tips on another one of my project plans. 50mm it is so, i may start drawing up some plans. Shox Dr what door would you think would suit this application? Not keen on a roller as there is loads of gear hung and stored inside from the roof...

 

[Country Joe]

Not keen on a roller as there is loads of gear hung and stored inside from the roof...

I've got a roller shutter type door, which takes up hardly any room at all, definitely less than 12" diameter when it's rolled up - and it's right at the top, out of the way.
They can be installed inside or outside, depending on how you feel about these things, anyway.
Also you then don't have to account for the large "area of swing" that a conventional up & over door would need.
All the Best,
CJ

 

[KemppiFrog]

I was assuming exterior sliding.
Did build a couple of doors that folded upwards with counterweights.
The top third of the door is hinged to the top of the reveal. The bottom two thirds is hinged to the top section and guided by pins (with rollers) in channels each side. When open, there is only a third sticking out each way of the opening. It looks much tidier than sliding as it is on the inner edge of the reveal. Quite heavy though, and more complicated than sliding.
KF

 

[Shox Dr]

Thanks once again for all the advice and helpfull tips on another one of my project plans. 50mm it is so, i may start drawing up some plans. Shox Dr what door would you think would suit this application? Not keen on a roller as there is loads of gear hung and stored inside from the roof...

Good question I suppose they all have their pros and cons. By the sound of things you are lucky in where you live, has a low crime level, as they are not the best for security

I just don't like sliding doors, I seem to be repairing them all the time, and the fittings I use are not cheap. And...and the damn slot they slide in gets full of dirt, old nuts and bolts etc that get stuck, or worst still forces the door off it's runners

Personally I would go with either a Roller door, or a pair of hinged doors.

Commercial Roller doors are cheap these days, I bought a 10' wide powered door and full steel side door from a company in Manchester a year or so, for £550 with all the fittings. and a remote.