- Thread starter julianf
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julianf
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The idea is that the back door will line up with this opening -
...but its not like im real fixed on that idea though.
To expand our intentions a bit further, when the overhang is enclosed, there will be a downstairs loo in that section, with a shower to the LHS (ie that wall to the left will be removed where necessary).
The door to the toilet / shower room will be where the existing back door is.
gaz1
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first off id do the foundations to the left where door is once done build wall up
whilst waiting for the foundations to set id set too and create the door opening where left window is, as this will give you access once you build up that outside wall and support your new beams thats going in
once done id consider building the internal wall on top of the other wall as it looks stable and theres no cracks in it even after an earthquake weve had recently to the left of the size of window you want to build, build to the window opening
once built if you dont want to open it up dont forget to wall tie it to the right consider a 4/5" steel beam to install from the built 2 new walls and install it once you rip the old door out pack above it to ceiling to support roof rip the old windows out build the right wall up and then another 4/5" steel beam across windows and door or use a catnit beam your choice but its better to rip the lot of installing that one in
whilst waiting for the foundations to set id set too and create the door opening where left window is, as this will give you access once you build up that outside wall and support your new beams thats going in
once done id consider building the internal wall on top of the other wall as it looks stable and theres no cracks in it even after an earthquake weve had recently to the left of the size of window you want to build, build to the window opening
once built if you dont want to open it up dont forget to wall tie it to the right consider a 4/5" steel beam to install from the built 2 new walls and install it once you rip the old door out pack above it to ceiling to support roof rip the old windows out build the right wall up and then another 4/5" steel beam across windows and door or use a catnit beam your choice but its better to rip the lot of installing that one in
addjunkie
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Another way...is build it in timber frame, insulation etc all included. Stick it on top of existing wall. New roof as discussed earlier..
If you need more height at door put a peak in the roof bit like a dormer roof..
Sadly only you know what you want...building is like many other things there are as many opinions as there are builders noses.
You could also do a flat orangery type roof and fix your upstairs windows
Beaware there is a good chance that some of the internal sheeting might be asbestos...comon in old builds.
If you need more height at door put a peak in the roof bit like a dormer roof..
Sadly only you know what you want...building is like many other things there are as many opinions as there are builders noses.
You could also do a flat orangery type roof and fix your upstairs windows
Beaware there is a good chance that some of the internal sheeting might be asbestos...comon in old builds.
I use aluminium nails when doing a slate roof, they are a bit easier on a slate ripper and I'm glad I did as when FIL did the ridge tiles on my garage roof for me he managing to crack a couple of tiles in the process.
Because I used boards instead of membrane I had to use counter battens. It provides a 50mm air gap between the roof and slate which has benefits in air flow and insulation.It also means if there are ever any leaks the water can run straight down unimpeded.
@julianf
If you and your partner fancy an interesting day out I did my Introduction to Lime course with these guys. It's a really enjoyable day, they provide lunch and you get to do practicals all set on a farm in the Brecon Beacons. You will become what they call a "Lime Bore"
because you start to understand issues on building that wouldn't have happened if someone had used Lime. One of the classics I see is what I think they called squalling, it's where you see a group of bricks in an old wall/building where the faces have broken away. It's mostly caused when someone has repointed a soft brick/lime mortar wall with cement. The bricks absorb water but the cement stops it soaking away and then when there is a frost it splits the face of the brick off. You see this a lot in town where there are lots of very old red brick properties. Driving through Worcester you see loads of it.
https://www.lime.org.uk/
They take on cases with mortgage companies who won't lend or insist on damp proof courses being installed on old properties just because the surveyor has said there is rising damp.They said that in 95% of case the "damp" can be traced to a leaking roof,window,down pipe or a wall that has been sealed in another area and moisture has to come out.
@julianf
If you and your partner fancy an interesting day out I did my Introduction to Lime course with these guys. It's a really enjoyable day, they provide lunch and you get to do practicals all set on a farm in the Brecon Beacons. You will become what they call a "Lime Bore"
because you start to understand issues on building that wouldn't have happened if someone had used Lime. One of the classics I see is what I think they called squalling, it's where you see a group of bricks in an old wall/building where the faces have broken away. It's mostly caused when someone has repointed a soft brick/lime mortar wall with cement. The bricks absorb water but the cement stops it soaking away and then when there is a frost it splits the face of the brick off. You see this a lot in town where there are lots of very old red brick properties. Driving through Worcester you see loads of it.https://www.lime.org.uk/
They take on cases with mortgage companies who won't lend or insist on damp proof courses being installed on old properties just because the surveyor has said there is rising damp.They said that in 95% of case the "damp" can be traced to a leaking roof,window,down pipe or a wall that has been sealed in another area and moisture has to come out.
julianf
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I wont pretend that we know what we are doing really, but we kind of just got on with it -
(old photos, posted on other threads in the past)
This was probably wrong, as its NHL, and probably should have been putty, but there's no sign of any cracking at all.
It was top coated with putty, and then limewash -
Better than the old baxi bermuda that was there previously -
(note wood chip wall paper, and green pile carpet!)
Again, theyre shots from some time back. We have been slacking in the mean time : ( But its now time to get on with the rest of it.
I know it's not everyones taste but I love the colours and shading you get with lime wash, much of our house must have been decorated around the same time. We pulled out a tiled fireplace and found an inglenook behind it, we even had that panelling too.
You've done a lovely job there and made the right choice, that would never have looked right with a modern plaster and you will have saved a fortune.
You've done a lovely job there and made the right choice, that would never have looked right with a modern plaster and you will have saved a fortune.
addjunkie
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It does look a nice job I have to agree, we pulled out a similar fire place and found the remains of an old one too, but took things a tad further before putting things back., just ended up knocking down the old kitchen walls they were so bad, once the roof came off, not man enough to take an upstairs, with the home made cement lintels containg an old leaf spring and a fence post for the inner lintel.
