SIP Weldmate Multi P184

[skotl]

Glad you've got the juice flowing, #6011 look forward to hearing how the full blown test goes!

As PTvor says, the greatest inrush of current is when the arc is struck. If the welder is on a dedicated circuit then you could consider changing the MCB from a B type (e.g. B16) to a C type (C16). B types trip between 3-5 x max current and C types trip between 5-10 x max current.

I'd caution against switching to a C type if it's not on a dedicated circuit (i.e. you have other run-of-the-mill devices plugged in to the same circuit) as there is a reason that B type MCBs are fitted for these.

 

[6011 A Welding Odyssey]

Test has gone very very well, exceedingly well. I guess I got lucky with the wiring at the house although I read elsewhere that the SIP Multi is a "generator friendly" welder.

Arc welding at 150A is fine. Melted a knife blade doing it as I had no scrap at the time. Just found my camera so some photos of the proper stuff will follow.

Welder never gets hot despite me going through 10 rods in around 10 minutes. Welder has a rated Duty Cycle of 60% @160A. Never gets hot.

I have had some problems, but they were ALL limited to a lack of welding expertise. I have finally managed to figure out that 100A is the best current for 2.5 rods {ALDI or Ebay 6013} on 50 X 50 X 5 mild steel box-section.

I am building a very heavy workbench from this stuff and so far have measured out and cut the two sides. The off cuts from these are something I have been practicing on, and managed to weld them together.

I am bevelling the sides, then doing a root pass, then some other beads on top of that, building up to a finish, then grinding them and trying to break them. Solid so far. Unfortunatley all of this is done lying on the ground as I have no bench, its what I am building. Weather has been great of course so no probs there,

With 6013 I have problems seeing the puddle and the ALDI rods burn too fast for my inexperienced liking. That said, if I can master a poor quality rod, I can master a better on.

So far I am really enjoying the experience.

My mask is a parweld Xr916H and I use some basic TIG gloves, My grinder is a Dewalt 1250w rated 5" on mains, got that from ITS.

Cannot wait to get this bench built.

 

[rtbcomp]

Great stuff, thanks for keeping us updated.

 

[6011 A Welding Odyssey]

Hi, no problem, it seems to me that this welding game is a mix of joint preparation, correct {quality} welder, correct rod, correct settings, and then correct technique. Get any one of them wrong and you are making a rod { ha ha} for your own back.

I think a quality automatic helmet is also needed. Mine cost £60 and has a grinder mode.

I do have to say that although I have only used the SIP Multi 184 in the MMA stage so far, I like how it hums up, fan on automatically {do most welders have a fan or is this an added extra?} and never seems to overheat.

I would not say the ALDI rods are "Junk", in fact for stuff like tacking or doing big spot welds {like on threaded rods to stop thieves undoing the nuts}. They serve a pupose but are probably a "bad" rod for beginner. Even good 6013 might be judged a "bad" rod as you cannot really see the puddle and that's what its all about when learning this racket.

I am also amazed at how thick 5mm box-section only seems to need 100Amps to get fused. What sort of metal needs 150???

Cheers.

 

[welder marc]

Hi, no problem, it seems to me that this welding game is a mix of joint preparation, correct {quality} welder, correct rod, correct settings, and then correct technique. Get any one of them wrong and you are making a rod { ha ha} for your own back.

I think a quality automatic helmet is also needed. Mine cost £60 and has a grinder mode.

I do have to say that although I have only used the SIP Multi 184 in the MMA stage so far, I like how it hums up, fan on automatically {do most welders have a fan or is this an added extra?} and never seems to overheat.

I would not say the ALDI rods are "Junk", in fact for stuff like tacking or doing big spot welds {like on threaded rods to stop thieves undoing the nuts}. They serve a pupose but are probably a "bad" rod for beginner. Even good 6013 might be judged a "bad" rod as you cannot really see the puddle and that's what its all about when learning this racket.

I am also amazed at how thick 5mm box-section only seems to need 100Amps to get fused. What sort of metal needs 150???

Cheers.

Most work we do is on thick plate upwards of 10mm and most welds are with kryo1 5mm low hydrogen rods at 220 amps. 2.5mm rods should be about 60-80amps, 3.2mms 100-140 amps 4mm 120-170 ( I find 160 is the sweet spot) and finaly 5mm 180-250 amps