SIP Migmate 100 - stopped working for no apparent reason

[foy9999]

Before I start. Apologies to anyone who has seen all this before

I've has 2 of these machines and they are ideal for my needs (car body repairs on 1mm steel).

I've never had any problems with wire feed but both machines have just stopped working. The last one was in 2009 and I sold it for spares and bought 2 other welders that I didn't like before getting another used Migmate 100 which has been great up to now.

It took me nearly 2 years to get the last one and I can't go through all that again so I'm putting these pics up in the vain hope that someone can give me an idea why it doesn't work now.

Nothing appears to be burnt out and all the wiring is intact. The torch looks fine inside and I tried plunking and unplunking all the buttons in various combinations to see if that was the problem.

I think it's the wire feed motor that's gone but can't seem to find anywhere that sells ones the exact same.

Is there any simple way the check the motor? eg attach it to a car battery

 

[BrokenBiker]

does the welder do anything when you switch it on? I.e fan start, lights and so on.

might sound daft, but if not have you checked the fuse in the plug. You would not believe the amount of times someone has asked me to look at their drill or grinder to see why its dead only to find the fuse blown

 

[foy9999]

Hi brokenbiker. The on/off switch is lighting up and when you pull the trigger the gas releases. It's some some of electrical fault but there's a lot of electrics in there and i don't know where to start checking

 

[BrokenBiker]

do you have a multi meter?

 

[ian f]

in the 9th picture the green plug isn't on fully?

 

[Sean]

the relay, 4th from last picture clear "Lego Brick" with 12v~DC 0300 should click or you should see the contacts move when you pull the trigger Its an easy swap if you can work a soldering iron.

but put the green plug back on

 

[rtbcomp]

in the 9th picture the green plug isn't on fully?

+1

 

[BrokenBiker]

didn't see the green plug, slow loading pics. Definately put that back on properly.

 

[mike 109444]

Yes you can check the motor with say a battery charger ( make sure you disconnect at least one of the two wires going onto the motor to avoid feeding voltage into a circuit designed to out put voltage!) This will quickly prove the motor as working. Recon it's more than likely the cooked relay.

 

[foy9999]

Sorry guys. The green plug was just put back in place loosely for the picture. It was plugged in properly before I started removing bits. It was never going to be that easy ffs

I have got a multimeter brokenbiker. Just not sure what to start checking.

Thanks.

 

[masleeve]

You aren't too far from me and I can help , I have modded my sip 130 a lot so have a few spares.
send me a pm and we can get our heads together

 

[skotl]

Ditto. If you and masleeve can't hook up, I'm in South Queensferry and am happy to look at it with you.

In the first instance, tho, set your multimeter to DC volts (anything above 50V DC) then touch the probes to the two pins on the motor. Have someone else pull the torch trigger (unless you have three hands?) and you should see somewhere between 12 and 20V at the two motor contacts. If you do, then the motor is stuffed.

Do be wary of the many mains voltage connectors in the case, though. You definitely want someone else on the torch so that you can keep your attention on the innards of the machine.

 

[foy9999]

Hi skotl. That sounds easy enough to do. So, basically you are checking that power is getting to the the two connections on the wire feed motor. So if you get a reading it means the power is coming through ok so it follows that the motor is gubbed as it's the only thing that comes after the power?

If I don't have a helper. What about an elastic band round the trigger while I touch the probes?

NB. If the motor is gubbed. Can you get new ones?

 

[skotl]

That's the gist of it. Don't get your hopes up, tho, as the smart money is probably on the relay rather than the motor.

But, yes, it's a standard DC motor so if all the electrickery is working you should expect to see (I forget how many... 12...20V) a reading at the motor pins. A member on here did have some spare motors - I forget who it was but will check my PMs. First thing to do tho, is do that test.

If you're resorting to elastic bands make very, very sure that the earth clamp is stuck well out the way (I tend to clamp mine to a wooden shelf) and that the torch is well, well out in the other direction so that you're certain it can't strike an arc.

 

[skotl]

It was Mike 109444 who had a batch of motors that, with a little surgery, would fit the SIPs.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/members/mike-109444.10787/

 

[jh2005]

Get some crocodile clips for the multimeter, then your hands will be free for the torch

 

[BrokenBiker]

Shouldn't be difficult to hold both probes on the motor.connections will be fairly close together usually

 

[foy9999]

Well guys. Thanks for all the replies but I'm buzzing just now cos masleeve came round tonight with his diagnostic gear. We re-connected everthing back to how it was and he did some tests.

Located the problem and decided to swap the circuit board thing with another (almost exactly) the same which he just happened to have and it worked straight away.

Then we looked at my old board and the relay did look burnt through the clear casing.

All seems simple now

 

[the snooper]

looks like another victory for the forum then, if it wasn't virtual it would be the best place on the planet

 

[foy9999]

I've been on many forums over the years the snooper but never actually had someone help in person.

NB. Is it possible to edit your own posts? When I started the thread I was in a rush and didn't caption my pictures. I'd like to do it now but can't see an 'edit' button altho their is one on the posts I made tonight.

Time limit?