Show us your bench vice(s)

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[Dieselman 63]

View attachment 128896 View attachment 128895

The best way to fix a vice is with another vice - if possible bigger than the one you're working on. I used a woodworking vice when I did my Record. If heat doesn't work, light tapping on each end of the jaws left and right may loosen the screws. Use an impact screwdriver, a normal one will got you nowhere. The screws should eventually come loose.

Anyone know how I can put up a video saved on my computer? The ''Upload a file'' option only works for photos.

Upload to YouTube, two minute job. YouTube links back as a video perfectly in forum.

 

[SwanseaRoadBikesInstagram]

The best way to fix a vice is with another vice - if possible bigger than the one you're working on. I used a woodworking vice when I did my Record. If heat doesn't work, light tapping on each end of the jaws left and right may loosen the screws. Use an impact screwdriver, a normal one will got you nowhere. The screws should eventually come loose.

I already had a mounted vise, and yes I agree, a vise is really nice when working on another vise (what about the first vise? Well my first vise was brand new so...) I would like to have an impact driver, but this trick works brilliantly, and I've seen someone use an impact and end up having to weld a bolt to it, whereas I would guarantee it would have come out if he did it like this (NOT with vise-grips). This one was nowhere near as tight as the No.36 with it's fine thread and long taper head (which also came out).

 

[CwazyWabbit]

I've sheared the end off the screwdriver bit using that method, if the impact driver method doesn't work for me I usually just build up a blob with the tig welder and then weld a nut on. That has never failed and once removed I cut the nut off and recut the screw slot.
I like the record 34/35/36 but I have seen one on ebay that was broken and one of my 36's was bent when I bought it. I think the broken 36 is posted earlier in this thread.

EDIT: Found the broken one picture http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/show-us-your-bench-vice-s.52872/page-25#post-655192

 

[SwanseaRoadBikesInstagram]

I've sheared the end off the screwdriver bit using that method, if the impact driver method doesn't work for me I usually just build up a blob with the tig welder and then weld a nut on. That has never failed and once removed I cut the nut off and recut the screw slot.
I like the record 34/35/36 but I have seen one on ebay that was broken and one of my 36's was bent when I bought it. I think the broken 36 is posted earlier in this thread.

EDIT: Found the broken one picture http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/show-us-your-bench-vice-s.52872/page-25#post-655192

Yeah but can you really blame the vise? They had obviously abused it for a WHILE and even then It's still perfectly usable (unless it's something other than the hole?).
What I find a bit annoying about the British vises is the castings are so thinned out, they're not nearly as dense as the American ones. I guess they are the product of different philosophies, the Americans just chucked more iron at it, the British tried to design it to a minimum, although I'm aware of the heavy chipping and shipyard vices Record made. Even though they work just fine, a bit more mass would have been nice.

Oh and I don't have a welder so I have do do what I can. Can I ask what you were doing when you sheared the screwdriver?!?!

 

[Seadog]

I dicked around for a while with turning those screwdriver bits with an adjustable, and then vise-grips until admitting a 1/4'' AF wrench was needed, so I bought a 1/4'' drive sliding t-bar and a set of AF sockets (although I only needed the 1/4'' size, I thought what the heel?).

I used to use a similar method the remove the sludge trap plugs from BSA and Triumph crankshafts. I used a No. 4 flypress and a Britool 1/2" drive screwdriver bit ground to a close fit. Even graunched ones, which a lot were, would wave the white flag using this method.

 

[Arc Tourist]

Using a shackle instead of a bar on the Swinden's vice, interesting.

 

[MattF]

Regarding screws, I make reasonable efforts to remove them, but if they're locked/rusted solid, I prefer to sacrifice the screw, and drill the head off. A screw is easily replaced.

Using a shackle instead of a bar on the Swinden's vice, interesting.

Did it mainly as a clearance thing. I had to remove that handle so that I could more easily work on the leadscrew, (which had been stretched), so decided to pop that on there rather than refitting the handle. The shackle allows you to apply a decent amount of pressure with minimal swing required, and you can slip a rod through it if you need more grunt for tightening.

 

[SwanseaRoadBikesInstagram]

I used to use a similar method the remove the sludge trap plugs from BSA and Triumph crankshafts. I used a No. 4 flypress and a Britool 1/2" drive screwdriver bit ground to a close fit. Even graunched ones, which a lot were, would wave the white flag using this method.

I should mention, what you see in the photo is a 1/4'' AF hex socket used to turn a regular screwdriver bit, which have a 1/4'' hex shank. I like the idea of proper square-drive screwdriver bits, as you see in some socket sets.

 

[hanvyj]

The wife grabbed this vise from the tip, got it for a few quid.

Record 84. No idea how old it is, but it's in surprisingly good nick. Not that many stuck screws/bolts, it opened and closed fine.

Giving it a strip down and re-paint, brushing the cobwebs out. A nice surprise addition to the 'workshop'.

Half way through stripping it down:

 

[Asphalt70]

Hi Guys,
Apropos Record 75.
I'm having mine machined where jaws are mounted, as it is 0,3mm concave in each end both sides. Jaws are ofcourse same shape, and since I dont have acces to a planar grinder (?) anymore (used to be toolmaker), I'm considering my next move:
1) try to grind them with a steady hand and a angle grinder and some bars in each side of jaws to control it.
Or maybe "kiss" them on a large belt grinder we have at job.
2) Find someone who could grind old ones.
3) Have new ones made and hardened.
4) find nos ones.
Anyone seen nos no.75 jaws for sale. They are 135mm+80mm btwn threaded holes.
What do you think?
All comments are welcome

 

[winchman]

In general vice jaws are expensive and older ones difficult to find, I am sure some one will be along to tell you more accurately

 

[MattF]

Is the slight curve causing a problem in use?

 

[Asphalt70]

Probably not.
I guess its just me being slightly OCD on my vice.
I think its a product of many years toolmaking with very small tollerances

 

[MattF]

If owt, I'd be more inclined to shim accordingly behind the inserts. They'll likely pull back that amount then, when the bolts are tightened. Either that or snap.

 

[Asphalt70]

Ya, thats also a good plan.
When the fixed and the loose jaws on the vice itself are machined and straight, it might solve the problem with or without shimming.
Actually I saw some brand new jaws for a Record 6", that was banana shaped straight from the shop, probably due to the hardening proces.

 

[MattF]

May also be worth running a file over the back of the insert to see if they're fully hardened throughout. If not, try filing the back faces. Easier to get a flat surface with the file than going the belt sander route.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I got my hands on this old vice.
No makers name cast into the body, but I have found the following details stamped onto the top of the movable jaws.

T Syer & co London Patent 102N.

What I have found is this. (cut and pasted)

Thomas J Syer of London started in business as cabinet makers about 1880. By 1888, the company was styled T Sayer & Co. and described as ironmongers, patent vice and improvement tool depot, cabinet and technical workshop, office and shop fitters. By 1911, the business was toolmakers.


There is not much information Out there, but I was wondering if any one here had more information.

 

[Asphalt70]

Matt,
Hardened for sure, not sure if full to center.
I'm going to check out the sander route, I hope to find a flat and straight supported lenght of belt on the machine.
I agere, grinding jaws on a radius would be very difficult.

 

[Phil_D]

I’ve just acquired a heavy old vice that’s got a lot of surface rust. I don’t like the ‘restored’ look much rather try and retain any original paint and perhaps a coat of linseed oil.

Any tips on getting rust off without destroying the paint? Would a wire wheel be too aggressive?