- Thread starter GRW
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It's not that straight. I found partway through that the sheer weight of the stock was lifting the cutting end slowly away from the bed. I had to prop up the end to stop it creeping.
However the cut itself isn't critical as its going to be milled (not by me), so straight-ish is acceptable.
I didn't lube at all - I'm not sure if using fluid on these saws will fgo much more than clag everything up with clumps of filings
Erie Fred
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Yes, while changing the blade takes a minute, a coarser blade would have cut that in approx 15 minutes.
Yes, I know your not looking for speed, but the 1 hour cut time tells me the saw blade was rubbing and not
taking a good cut. That contributes to a wandering cut.
If I could see the cut with more clarity, I would wager you could see evidence of too many teeth in the cut.
What TPI blade did you use ?
Yes, I know your not looking for speed, but the 1 hour cut time tells me the saw blade was rubbing and not
taking a good cut. That contributes to a wandering cut.
If I could see the cut with more clarity, I would wager you could see evidence of too many teeth in the cut.
What TPI blade did you use ?
Not certain but I think it's 14tpi - sort of middle-of-the Road general metal cutting.
Also saw is set up on slowest speed on the belts, and owner of said lump of metal did think it was a pretty hard steel.
All I know was it took nearly an hour (though I did stop the saw and faff around a bit when it was clear the overhanging weight was making the lump creep in the vice)
Erie Fred
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I figured such, I keep the similar 10-14 vari teeth in mine (have 2 saws)
I think the coarsest you could find in those is 4-6 TPI and it would help.
Speed is SFM and is not related to thickness, just material.
Simply put your fingers down where the chips come off, and see how warm they are.
Burn your fingers is too fast, but just warm is just fine.
CompoSimmonite
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I've got a motorcycle steering damper I keep meaning to add to mine for more controlled "lowering"
Tinbasherdan
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Mines sitting all forlorn in the corner of the workshop for the moment I feel brave enough to play with electrics. Was working fine, then wouldn’t start unless you flicked the motor pulley round, and now just trips the electrics as soon as it’s plugged in
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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Grw
go get ur-self a Cobalt enhanced vari tooth blade from Tuf Saw....cost is just a little more than a norm HSS blade....
there's a good chart on the web site...buy the tooth count that suits ur type of metal u norm cut.....or ask Ian....he's a one man band and very helpful.....ps I get my wood band saw blades from him which also have Cobalt in em....
I run those metal cutting blades on my 12" SIP saw.....admit with coolant.....
they cut well for literally for years....the machine is set as fast as it will go which isn't so fast really ....I'm sure coolant helps.....
I norm cut 200x10mm plate.....plus ur size of solid bar......
this blade was bought around 8 years ago and got used a lot for stuff around the farm.....plus it's just buit my new barn....and still cutting great.....
go get ur-self a Cobalt enhanced vari tooth blade from Tuf Saw....cost is just a little more than a norm HSS blade....
there's a good chart on the web site...buy the tooth count that suits ur type of metal u norm cut.....or ask Ian....he's a one man band and very helpful.....ps I get my wood band saw blades from him which also have Cobalt in em....
I run those metal cutting blades on my 12" SIP saw.....admit with coolant.....
they cut well for literally for years....the machine is set as fast as it will go which isn't so fast really ....I'm sure coolant helps.....
I norm cut 200x10mm plate.....plus ur size of solid bar......
this blade was bought around 8 years ago and got used a lot for stuff around the farm.....plus it's just buit my new barn....and still cutting great.....
I'd suspect the capacitor(s) with that. Hopefully it's that, as it's about the easiest & cheapest fault to rectify.
If you have a meter that will read capacitance you can check their reading v the microfarad raring stated on the casing. If low (or grey hardened gack pushing out of the casing) its FUBAR.
Buy an equivalent for a few quid & replace it and reconnect the 2 wires/terminals (doesn't matter which way around) & you should be good.
I saw that mod, liked the idea but never did it.
The saw doesn't get used much, & the old spring tension isn't too bad tbh - so I've taken the easy way out & done nothing
dobbslc
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I have the same saw, different badge, and it cuts great. One thing I do recommend is making a more substantial mobile base. Mine is loaded down with lots of heavy stock, vices, etc. Makes for really useful storage plus the saw feels so much more solid.Last night my I stuck a lump of 4" thick solid bar stock in my Sealey (same as Clarke etc) bandsaw.
It took about an hour, but it just quietly & doggedly chewed away until it got through.
View attachment 481076 View attachment 481077
You mean thr lump made of bits of Unistrut on the floor?I love the 'safety table working platform' you have there...
Yep, that's my prototype vertical cutting table for the saw. Clamps in the saw vice for quick fitting & removal.
It works fine but is only bolted up atm , and needs a few blobs of weld when I have a minute
colnerov
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You mean thr lump made of bits of Unistrut on the floor?
Yep, that's my prototype vertical cutting table for the saw. Clamps in the saw vice for quick fitting & removal.
It works fine but is only bolted up atm , and needs a few blobs of weld when I have a minute
I think he's referring to Frank Horton's blue item on wheels.
wyn
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Mine used to trip the electrics now and then.
It ended up being little bits of metal in the micro switch under the blade cover.
Blow it out with an airline and it worked fine.
Ah, yes! That!I think he's referring to Frank Horton's blue item on wheels.
Nowt wrong with that! A welding bench on a pallet, 10-feet in the air - just the ticket!
(Parm may not agree maybe
) 