Shoulder bolt problem

[Puglet1]

Berger Tools

Hi Brad93.
Please remember I’m not an engineer but have taken your advice and looked at the Berger site.
As far as I can see, I think the attached bolt will be ok if I use a 5mm spacer to reduce the shoulder length.
I don’t understand what the DK and K dimensions are, what do you think ?
Thank you.
Pete.

 

[Puglet1]

Well if you find out what thread you require... buy some 16mm stainless rod, (buy a lathe) turn it down to 15.84 for the shoulder, then turn both ends down and cut the right sized thread. Stick a nylon nut on one end to act as the nut head.. Jobis done

Well, As a fellow (previously born and bred) Bristolian. I’d love to do what you have suggested. Problem is I still need a 19mm spanner head to hold the16mm bar and the skill to operate a lathe (which I don’t have).
Anyway, thanks for your help, give my kind regards to all North of Brizzle

 

[DanZac]

I don’t understand what the DK and K dimensions are, what do you think ?
Thank you.

From the drawing on their Web page DK is the head Diameter and K is the head thickness. The 1031-16 is a round head bolt (instead of hex) with a hex socket in the end.

Shoulder Bolts 1031, Stainless Steel CR17% NF E 27-191

Shoulder bolt 1031, for a wide range of uses, including cost saving replacement of expensive parts such as pivots & linkages & also for die mould use. UK supplier, offering next day delivery

www.berger-tools.co.uk

 

[daedalusminos]

I have looked at the top mounting and decided that the original Mk1 bolts give the best result but are too short to go through the brackets - which sit over the original chassis . That’s why I’m looking for shoulder bolts of the same dimension width wise - but longer .
Thank you for taking interest in this and spending time on Rimmers etc.

So you've already drilled out one side of the chassis extensions to take the larger diameter of the bolt shoulder?

 

[Other Daniel]

Well if you find out what thread you require... buy some 16mm stainless rod, (buy a lathe) turn it down to 15.84 for the shoulder, then turn both ends down and cut the right sized thread. Stick a nylon nut on one end to act as the nut head.. Jobis done

I would start with a length of 3/4 hex bar, then you already have
your bolt head.
Dead simple job for someone with a lathe. I'm too far away to be
any help unfortunately.

 

[Agroshield]

From the drawing on their Web page...

...every bolt shown has a metric thread on it.

That metric thread will be incompatible with the imperial fine thread into which the bolt has to screw.

 

[DanZac]

...every bolt shown has a metric thread on it.

That metric thread will be incompatible with the imperial fine thread into which the bolt has to screw.

I'm not familier with the application, but is it screwing into something or has it just got a nut on the end of it, in which case it doesn't matter what thread the original has as long as he gets a new nut to suit?

 

[Puglet1]

So you've already drilled out one side of the chassis extensions to take the larger diameter of the bolt shoulder?

No drilling was necessary. The larger hole was already in one side of the new extension bracket .

 

[Puglet1]

From the drawing on their Web page DK is the head Diameter and K is the head thickness. The 1031-16 is a round head bolt (instead of hex) with a hex socket in the end.

View attachment 451341

Shoulder Bolts 1031, Stainless Steel CR17% NF E 27-191

Shoulder bolt 1031, for a wide range of uses, including cost saving replacement of expensive parts such as pivots & linkages & also for die mould use. UK supplier, offering next day delivery

www.berger-tools.co.uk

Thanks DanZac. I was obviously looking at the wrong end of the bot.

 

[Puglet1]

...every bolt shown has a metric thread on it.

That metric thread will be incompatible with the imperial fine thread into which the bolt has to screw.

The thread isn’t in the chassis so I can purchase a couple of new nuts at the same time.

 

[Beanwood]

The thread isn’t in the chassis so I can purchase a couple of new nuts at the same time.

In which case it becomes much easier as the thread size won’t be critical.

 

[daedalusminos]

I'm still not understanding why you can't use the original conversion setup. They appear to use tubes to convert normal bolts into shouldered bolts - the large hole in your chassis extensions should match the outside tube diameter, the small hole determines the internal tube diameter.

A lot easier to trim some tube to length than make a new bolt.

 

[Other Daniel]

In which case it becomes much easier as the thread size won’t be critical.

Whilst true, if you were getting someone to make these, it would be just as easy
to make the "right" thread, and remain faithful to the original construction.
Mixing imperial and metric threads on a project is a slippery slope towards chaos
and the Dark Place where only madness lives.
At a guess, I would suggest it's 5/8" UNF.
(maybe )

 

[DaveB]

So as I currently understand it the original shouldered bolt went through the tower on the chassis to hold the top of the shocker, if a tube type, or it is in the outer hole for a lever type.
The new setup only varies in detail of the specific shocker model from most other 'conversions'.

I think the search for a shouldered bolt is un-necessary.

You simply need a bolt long enough to through the bracketry and a distance tube to stop the bracketry being squashed.
Ideally the tube would be stainless, but does not have to be - it does not even need to be proper tube as only the length is important.

If the previous identification of the original bolt as being a triumph part 118599 was correct then the thread is 7/16 UNF. Simply lookup task in a catalogue if you know where the bolt goes.

As an aside, the use of a polyurethane bush without a distance tube normally results in the bush being too tight and wearing rapidly. The exception being when they are on a shouldered bolt or shaft where there is a 'built in' distance tube. They are expected to function like a solid metal bearing would but with some compliance for shock load and vibration/noise mitigation.

 

[atomant48]

A photo of the installation would demystify much of the discussion maybe ? And get your project into the forum too sounds fun.

 

[Puglet1]

I'm still not understanding why you can't use the original conversion setup. They appear to use tubes to convert normal bolts into shouldered bolts - the large hole in your chassis extensions should match the outside tube diameter, the small hole determines the internal tube diameter.

A lot easier to trim some tube to length than make a new bolt.

The Koni conversion requires removal of the original top bush and is replaced using x2 steel spacer washers and polybushes. The bolt can be withdrawn using its hex head. When using the normal bolt and tube through the polybush, the bolt can be removed but the steel tube sits into a recess within the extension bracket and is non accessible. This prevents the shocker being removed without bending the bracket or damaging the polybush.

 

[daedalusminos]

When using the normal bolt and tube through the polybush, the bolt can be removed but the steel tube sits into a recess within the extension bracket and is non accessible.

Understood.....what you could do is drill a hole in the side of the tube and tack weld it to the bolt.

 

[Puglet1]

Understood.....what you could do is drill a hole in the side of the tube and tack weld it to the bolt.

That is a great idea. I shall give it a go!

 

[Brad93]

Can you draw exactly what you are after?

With dimensions? Hex head size?

 

[Puglet1]

Can you draw exactly what you are after?

With dimensions? Hex head size?

Hi Brad.
Thanks to you guys I now understand what I’m looking for and have located a couple of bolts which should fit perfectly.
As always, thank you for your help .
Pete