rcx132
Philip
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The dripping out of holes is to ensure coverage, it's not about thickness.
- Thread starter hanvyj
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rcx132
Philip
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I'm really not convinced about painting over rust. Water will get in at the edges and will creep along the rust under the paint. I did this using epoxy on my daily driver and it lasted a few years only. Jotun claims it can be used on rust but if you read their terms their warranty is completely void if you apply it to anything other than flash rusting.
Honestly , go do some reading things have moved on , Waxol these days cracks and peels too ,, and then it traps moisture .. the formula changed about ten years ago and the knock on from that has been tragic , in the dark old days I used to use waxol sometimes even mixing it with liquid grease and paint to try to get it to skin better , long gone are those days now ,
modern tech is to displace the water through the treatment think of the new stuff more as spray on goretex with rust prevention built in.
rcx132
Philip
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Are we talking about the same stuff? I'm talking about the dinitrol syrup stuff which last I checked is still the main stuff used on trains and from what I've seen is still used on commercial vehicles which are too large for e-coating.
Also read where exactly? Forums and magazines are not good enough. Modern paint technology is advanced and done by chemical engineers. Ive had a few opportunities to quiz these guys, they told me what to do, which basically comes down to media blasting, caustic cleaner, epoxy primer, PU top coating. This is the very simplified explanation.
Ill leave you to it then ,,,, but which of those steps will the op be doing inside a pitted box chassis exactly?
rcx132
Philip
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I was only told about external surfaces. For cavities I explored e coating but found that it doesn't work well on used vehicles. So I went the old fashioned way: I replace any very bad metal and use heated dinitrol on the rest. I've used ACF50 as a quick fix on external surfaces that can't be painted, but moved over to using chain lube as it looks and smells the same but is a fraction of the price.
Ive never tried chain lube , Ive a contact for a guy in the borders who does an equivalent to acf at half the price , but as I use a fraction of a litre on the insides of a chassis I just stick to the real thing , then pass the cost onto the customer , the non flammable thing is very handy too , sooner or later there will be another patch or an out rigger etc to be replaced .
rcx132
Philip
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Sounds like you're onto something. I've never tried ACF in cavities but sounds like it could work. And it does last for what it is, probably longer than wax but my concern would be how to do an entire chassis with it. Your applying blindly which is why you spray so much so there's a lot of wastage
Dcal
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If you can get at them and properly prep them, why would you not paint them.
If you can't prep "properly", I agree, just wax them.
If I’m patching something I always paint the side I can’t get at again and then wax after welding.
I did a Delta a while ago and there was at least a 1/2 inch of waX at the bottom of the sills and they were rusting away under the accumulated dried wax. It must have been done every year but it still didn’t save them.
It was a pig to get out so that fresh wax could get to the seams.
You "can" have too much of anything.
No ,, Honestly its not a problem , I was the same at the start too , the tool i use is a dpf cleaning gun , it holds half a litre of fluid and has a four foot flexi hose with a cross drilled nozzle at the end , with a spray out of the front too ,, with the hose pushed up inside a chassis as an example you just pull the trigger to start the mist and withdraw the hose , if you put a lamp at the far end of where your treating , or are lucky enough to have the sun down that way , you can see the mist coming out of any holes etc along the way , it looks a bit like staem coming off a kettle , if its fully sealed after one or two piffs to see the guns working you will know how fast to pull the gun out . On things like x members that may not have an opening or any holes , I drill one about 8mm and use a self seal cable grommet , then in a couple of years if I go back to re treat I just pull the grommet out , just go in through the hole re dust put the grommet back in and move on . its expensive to buy in a tin , but the gallon or litre bottles do offer great value , it really is hard to tell your self youve put enough on when you see how little you use , but so far its worked for me. things like the Range Rover spare wheel well I posted just stop rusting and stay looking like they do till next time it gets a blast , usually for that it would be mot time , that I would use a hvlp paint gun on though as its easy to get to .
rcx132
Philip
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Well I wish I read this thread a month ago because I've just done my chassis.
there will be plenty more times to do it ahead ,,, its a nice job on a warm day .
