Sheet rolls re-build

[Kent]

Still waiting for that shaft to come back from machine shop so decided to update with the rest of the base frabrication work First off here is the casters that allow it to be moved about for best use of space in my small shop and the level feet that secure it in place and plumb

 

[Kent]

This might give a better perspective. Couldn't get mig gun in right so that's a Stick weld poked in there between the plate and the box

 

[Kent]

The bottom nut acts as a foot the stud is m20 and the nut is welded on with a full plug weld! The top nut is also fixed in place so you just wind the foot down with a spanner on the foot and lock it off with the nut to the under side of the bracket. The bracket is drilled only 1mm clearance so there is no real slack.
The feet must lift the casters off the floor.
I plan to use a similar system when I build my big fixture bench, which will be a lot heavier than the 4 cwt of the rolls

 

[Kent]

Now you see again the location holes drilled 19mm, these pick up the side castings / casings of the rolls. Its critical the centres are good both across the side but also more so from side to side. The tops must also be flush, one casing cannot lean off or in its essential the rolls sit level and plumb on the stand tops

 

[Kent]

So good I posted it twice! I shall never admit that was my fault and I couldn't work out how to delete one

Any how the stand completed awaiting paint.
Materials used
80x80x3 SHS
40x40x3 SHS
5mm end plates

 

[Kent]

Bowland Fabrications ltd are running a sale of wrought Iron work to clear the racks as its a roof off job on the shop this summer, all of the above was off the rack box and plate. Only thing I bought for the job was the casters the stud and the nuts. Left on the rack awaiting a job it was already rusting give it a good rain on and I shouldn't have been able to use it on a paying job anyhow.

 

[eSCHEn]

Looking very nice indeed Kent.

 

[Kent]

Looking very nice indeed Kent.

Thanks, took the opportunity to give it a coat of red oxide primer then the heavens opened with yet more water! Thinking should I paint it the black I keep in or a bright red like the casings Everything else in the shop ends up staying red oxide so I must start sorting stuff with top coats or it never gets done!

 

[Bsmith]

For those who are not used to making triangular frames and gussets etc. Remember the 3-4-5 triangle, if the two straight sides are 3 units and four units long the sloping side will be 5 units long. Don't matter what units you use a unit could be an inch or it could be 150mm as long as you stick to the rule.

here is one laid out flatView attachment 64388

All looking very nice. The top must be off-centre if your using 3,4 & 5 in making the frames?

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Bsmith I dont think so, it's just a rule that applies to a right angle triangle, if one side is 3 units another 4 and the angle is 90 the the third side has to be 5 units as Asquare plus Bsquare =Csquare (9+16=25).

In this case the 90 could be middle of the lower box section member. Two right angle triangles back to back.

 

[Kent]

All looking very nice. The top must be off-centre if your using 3,4 & 5 in making the frames?

I wasn't actually I just pre-empted any possible questions. The set up and levelling of the as a whole assembly is too hard to explain in text and is tweeked bit by bit.

 

[Kent]

Bsmith I font think so, it's just a rule that applies to a right angle triangle, if one side is 3 units another 4 and the angle is 90 the the third side has to be 5 units as Asquare plus Bsquare =Csquare (9+16=25)

Yep could measure it in anythings to set the square, just thought I should give an easy how to, with a 3-4-5 you can get height length of sloping side bottom and square all in one. I am a bit confused as to what Bsmith is saying actually but its perhaps my fault for saying about the 3-4-5 in the first place

 

[dan.taylor.1]

I think he meant If the 90 was at the high point of the triangle the top rail would be to the front (or back depending which side was the short one!) As one of the upright legs would be shorter than the other.

 

[Kent]

I thought I had his chain of thought a second ago a second ago, now I am lost. You know often I am on auto pilot and if you turn me back on sudden I think were the heck am I going- nother Scotch required

 

[Maker]

I thought I had his chain of thought a second ago a second ago, now I am lost. You know often I am on auto pilot and if you turn me back on sudden I think were the heck am I going- nother Scotch required

He means you have the 90 degree at the top with the lower length being the "5" and the diagonals being the "4" and the "3", that would be off centre. I take it what you actually did was have the height from the base to the top as the "4", the distance from the center of the base to the corner as the "3" and the diagonal as the "5".

 

[Bsmith]

Will try to get my thoughts with you then. If you had cut the pieces using lengths measured at 3, 4 and 5 you would have 3 different lengths meaning that the top of the triangle would be off centre. I know well that you didn't do that just by looking, I was just saying. I have used 3, 4 and 5 many times especially when chalking a square corner on the floor or making up a long temporary wooden square. My words are indeed difficult to understand, if this is the case please ignore me.

 

[Maker]

There's lots (actually, an infinite number) of combinations of numbers like that, they're called Pythagorean triples. It's not exact but "1", "1", "1.414*" works and will give you a diagonal of 45 degrees.

*Sqrt(2)

 

[Kent]

Will try to get my thoughts with you then. If you had cut the pieces using lengths measured at 3, 4 and 5 you would have 3 different lengths meaning that the top of the triangle would be off centre. I know well that you didn't do that just by looking, I was just saying. I have used 3, 4 and 5 many times especially when chalking a square corner on the floor or making up a long temporary wooden square. My words are indeed difficult to understand, if this is the case please ignore me.

Yes, commonly used for setting out anything beyond the size of what an engineers square etc can handle. Only mentioned it so the thread did not get bogged down with questions and debate (well that backfired) lets leave it now and crack on

 

[Wallace]

Nice sturdy looking frame, hope you don't regret welding the castors on as I did on one job, I did curse myself as there was no apprentice to blame!

 

[Kent]

Not really much option as bolting through 80mm box! If a castor needs replacing I shall just cut it off and weld a new one on. I bought good castors though and the weight will be born by the feet unless being moved, get your point though it did cross my mind prior (even thought about smaller stiches but they should last the duty required)