shed/workshop/garage ideas....cheap!

[normspanners]

Timbers fastened just to the top wont stop the walls falling to the side ( lozenging ) if you get a big wind, one whole side will push the other,through the timber, it is the roof trusses and the end wall that create the upright strength by being bolted down the panels by at least 6" WITH TWO BOLTS each side, every second panel or third max, the roof frames are metal angle iron rectangles with, legs down with various holes in them so that you can slope the 'flat' roof and give it a fall by slowly reducing the height of the frames as you get to one end.
When you start to build you put the first panels one on the left one on the right and then join them with a roof frame, then the next two panels another roof frame etc
But the frames have to be the exact size for the width of the back wall.

 

[shakyman]

yes i can see how extending brackets down the wall would improve ridgidity..maybe steel would be stronger..no need to weld just bolts..and triangulated wouldnt need to be heavy section ...hmmm thanks for your info..!

 

[normspanners]

My mate made his own roof with trusses from quite light angle it had a ridged roof they spanned about 24ft but they still had 'legs' out of heavy angle that went down the panels but the triangulation created the strength of the frame.

 

[Splatterer]

When you set it out, draw it out 'square square' on the ground. Measure the diagonals back left corner to the front right corner and vice/versa. You'll have already measured the sides by this point.
Make sure they're the same length, and that will make sure your corners and sides are at right angles and square on.
This will mean the roof will go on far more easily than if the walls are off square.

 

[Cris B]

Found this today on the Garage Journal forum - might be inspirational?

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194772

 

[zardoz]

A guy I do work for buys used scrap scaffold planks and has made some serious buildings with them just put steel posts wood cross braces and nailed the scaf planks to it if you can keep them dry for a few weeks then nail them side by side as they then take in moisture they then tighten up the slight gaps . He's even made massive doors from them using them for the frames and the planking. and it has cost him naf all.

That sounds very interesting. Dont suppose you can get any pictures can you ?

 

[Burdekin]

I made my car port at the workshop from sterling board and this timber from B&Q http://m.diy.com/mt/www.diy.com/nav...m-9275994?tab=rev&action=detail&un_jtt_v_r=54 and then felt for the roof. Best to give the Sterling Board a paint with a oil based primer first and then paint all with shed paint. I fixed the roof to the walls at every second upright with the same timber about 500mm long at about 45 degrees. It's very sturdy and survived storms and heavy snow but hopefully when I have the cash it will be all replaced with an extension and built in properly. My wife's uncle built a shed like this up at Bonar Bridge and has lasted years.

 

[shakyman]

phew! eight times iv,e loaded/unloaded these heavy b****rd,s now for the base...

 

[normspanners]

they look like 14" ones ? and loads of window ones?

 

[shakyman]

mostly 16" some 12" about 20 window panels..going to make it as big as space will allow!..about 5mx9m, have to work out door/window positions,want it to be light inside,but still strong,can short panels be stacked on top of one another to make a long panel?..

 

[normspanners]

As far as I know yes coz they still interlock, you may just need to drill a few extra holes holes I am not an expert unless it means 'EX' (as in hasbeen) and 'SPURT' (as in drip under pressure) in these panels I have just moved and dealt with a few ! (hundred)