Setting the depth on a drill??

[julianf]

Every drill press that ive ever used (which probably isnt that many, but more than 1!) has had a function to set the depth on the drill.

I recently purchased this -

(ignore the mess, please)

Whilst it has fancy stuff like a built in digital depth gage, it seems to have no facility to stop the depth at anything other than maximum extension. Which seems odd. And is awkward.

On the, umm, "down handle" (ive never considered the correct name for it) on the right hand side, there is even an analogue depth gauge, with a small locking mechanism to be able to "zero" the gauge, but, again, no actual mechanical stop, so far as i can tell.
Which seems real odd.

Is this in any way normal? If so, whats the work arround?

(repetitive countersinking is my application)

Thank you.

 

[hotponyshoes]

No idea but when I had to do a similar thing on a drill with no (broken) depth stop I did one hole correctly, then adjusted the table to about the end of the stroke then opened the chuck, put the bit in the hole I had drilled and tightened the chuck to set the depth.

Got any better photos?
What's the bit on the left? Hard to tell if its attached to the drill or the workshop wall?

 

[julianf]

The bit on the left is an oddity also.

Part of it is a swing away shield, without the shelf attached, and the other bit, I've not gotten to the bottom of. It's some device to remove the MT, but it seems to have been meddled with in the past.

I have the parts pdf for the unit, but it's not been easy for me to work it out. I'll screen grab the page from my computer in a bit.

 

[julianf]

Ok, so some screen grabs -

This extract seems to be saying exactly how to do what i want. But i cant get any real-world result.

This is the stuff on the left hand side that you mentioned. It seems that part 2 should rotate, and either engage/conflict or otherwise with part 3 to knock out the MT, but this seems not to be the case.

Ill take some photos later.

This is the parts diagram -

Thank you.

 

[hotponyshoes]

Wind the spindle all the way up.
Are the 2 marks both in alignment on the zero position?

 

[optima21]

well No.5 in the instructions says how it works, (in a similar way to my drills), so I'd be checking that mechanism.

 

[willie.macleod]

Try sliding the collar along the shaft next to the quill handle that the numbers are on. I think you aren't activating the depth stop, it should engage and disengage depending on the position of the collar on the shaft.

 

[James1979]

Have you got a picture of the right hand side from where you stand? It’s there I think.

Possibly that toggle in the middle or a knurled knob as #5 but I can’t see that as the airline is in the way

 

[wyn]

I have a cheapish clarke drill and the locking dial behind the handles limits the travel.

 

[julianf]

Ok, so i took this video -

You can see why i thought it was just a manual indicator.


If i lower the head as far as possible, the wheel still rotates entirely freely - ie there seems to be no "stop" at all. (i didnt record this, so youll have to take my word for it!)


Im guessing this means somthing is broken within the mechanism? Ive not had a drill that works like this before, and, despite what was written in the manual, i still wasnt sure if it was supposes to be a physical stop or an indicator.

 

[julianf]

I took this video of the taper removal mech also -

The manual implies there is a knob on the left hand side. Mine has a paddle / lever. In the vid, you can see me rotating it, but the the cam type thing (part 2 in the description) seems to just be a nyloc that does nothing.

But, that aside, so far as i can tell, it should just conflict with the lump that has the two allen screws through it, right?

...and push it down, i think? In the parts diagram i posted before, this looks like part #9, but i cant be sure what its supposed to do? Could anyone advise?

Thank you all.

 

[James1979]

You’re on the right lines. Mine is like that but I think you’re may be broken?

I put mine to, say 10mm, and then it goes down to zero as it botttoms out.

 

[Parm]

The forum should start charging you consultancy fees for solving all your problems

BTW, did you ever get to the bottom of the money borrowing issue?

 

[E T]

Put the tip of the drill on the workpiece. Set the collar to the depth you want to drill. Lock collar. Then the quill will not go down any further than that set depth.

 

[wyn]

Do the three handles push towards or pull away from the main body of the drill?
This may engage and disengage the height locking mechanism.

Or the pin (18 on the diagram) could be broken/missing.

 

[Agroshield]

For the depth control, the written part of the manual you have posted does not agree with the exploded diagram nor with the picture of the drill.

In the diagram accompanying the written manual, the handles are cranked and solid. The picture and exploded diagram (128) shows handles that are straight and seem to have a (white) button on a shaft through the centre. The written instructions seem to hint at this set up in paragraph 6, mentioning a flowchart.

As the qull spring (31) is on the LHS of the machine, nothing will fly over your shoulder if you dismantle the handle and investigate what all the parts do.

Similarly with the taper release. Pressing the bit on the outside should poke something into a gap/slot/hole in the quill. Then, when you lift the quill handle, that poky thing engages the tang on the end of the Morse taper and ejects it. This implies two things: that the quill has to be somewhat extended (so the pin is above the tang on the taper) and that the inner, rotating quill has to be rotated until the gap/slot/hole is lined up so the pin can enter.

Think in your mind of how a standard Morse taper looks, fits and is removed (wedge driven into a slot). The principle of what you have is the same.

 

[julianf]

The button mentioned is another function of the unit. The button is electronic and reverses the spindle rotation for tapping. What I mean is that it's an entirely separate system.

I will attach the PDF when I'm on the main computer later.

 

[julianf]

For the depth control, the written part of the manual you have posted does not agree with the exploded diagram nor with the picture of the drill.

In the diagram accompanying the written manual, the handles are cranked and solid. The picture and exploded diagram (128) shows handles that are straight and seem to have a (white) button on a shaft through the centre. The written instructions seem to hint at this set up in paragraph 6, mentioning a flowchart.

As the qull spring (31) is on the LHS of the machine, nothing will fly over your shoulder if you dismantle the handle and investigate what all the parts do.

Similarly with the taper release. Pressing the bit on the outside should poke something into a gap/slot/hole in the quill. Then, when you lift the quill handle, that poky thing engages the tang on the end of the Morse taper and ejects it. This implies two things: that the quill has to be somewhat extended (so the pin is above the tang on the taper) and that the inner, rotating quill has to be rotated until the gap/slot/hole is lined up so the pin can enter.

Think in your mind of how a standard Morse taper looks, fits and is removed (wedge driven into a slot). The principle of what you have is the same.

Ive just had another look at the job -

I understand the taper release slightly better now.

The bit on the left hand side just limits how far up the spindle goes in normal operation.

The block with the two small allen head screws on it isnt a fancy button or anything, its just a stop, that stops the spindle raising any more.

I took it off completely so there was no conflict at all, not that there really was, as the cam thing is missing anyway -

Anyway, what it does is limit the inner shaft thing (visible through the oval hole below) from hitting the top of the arbor in normal use. The block with the allen screws limits the maximum rise. Without the block in place (or rather when the cam thing is out of the way) the spindle can rise further, and then that innner shaft is supposed to knock out the taper.

...but it doesnt. Its not quite long enough.

You can see that the previous owner has been whacking stuff through the hole by the indents on the inner shaft.


So, i now understand (i think) that part of it, but its not resolved.


A question (and apologies if i should know this, but clearly i dont!) -

The flat on the end of the arbor - i always thought that located into a slot to stop the arbor rotating in the taper hole, but it doesnt seem to? The rotation is simply stopped by the friction of the taper, right?

If i insert the arbor whilst rotating it, it will rotate right up until the point where it binds up - the flat itself does not stop the rotation. I thought it was supposed to, but im not familiar with these things.






So, onto the other side / issue -

There is no movement in any of the parts (the ring or the handles) other than the rotation of the ring. I took off the circlip and locking screw -

....but evreything is still solid. Im guessing i need to take off the handles to go further, which is kind of odd, but i cant see any way to go further now, unless the whole thing comes out from the other side.

 

[julianf]

This (attached) is the pdf manual / parts diagrams.

 

[Seadog]

The tang should pop into a slot at the back of the taper. It's then aligned with the slot for the removal wedge. The wedge should have a radiused edge and a flat edge on the slope. The rounded edge goes go the top of the slot.