Selfcentering three jaw chuck lubrication

[Guzrik]

I recently bougth this chuck.
I have cleaned it, there was almost no lubrication in.
It rattles a bit when opening or closing, maybe because it was almost dry.
What do I put in it for lubrication, little bit of grease?

 

[Memmeddu]

I recently bougth this chuck.
I have cleaned it, there was almost no lubrication in.
It rattles a bit when opening or closing, maybe because it was almost dry.
What do I put in it for lubrication, little bit of grease?

View attachment 498684

I've seen them having an oil port.
So I'd use thick gear oil.
Not too much just a bit

 

[MattF]

Oil, don't grease.

 

[dieselsamurai]

as little oil as possible

 

[BrokenBiker]

as above, oil...and not a great deal either really, it will only fly out when the chuck spins anyway

 

[Seadog]

Powdered graphite.

 

[Agroshield]

There are also PTFE dry lube products that could work.

More for information, this is a manufacturer's recomendation:

Pratt Burnerd Chuck Lubricant | Pratt Burnerd America

 

[Guzrik]

Oil it is, thank you all!

 

[Memmeddu]

Powdered graphite.

It does nothing they are made out of cast iron it already has enough carbon in it to not seize up just little bit of oil to prevent corrosion and fill the microscopic surface irregularities and it will practically become a self lubing bushing.
Problem with using grease or a lot of oil is that dust and debris will stick to it.
But I'm more concerned about alignment.
If the op doesn't reassemble it exactly in the same position it was in first place this will cause terrible run out issues and possibly components binding and premature wear and tear

 

[Guzrik]

It does nothing they are made out of cast iron it already has enough carbon in it to not seize up just little bit of oil to prevent corrosion and fill the microscopic surface irregularities and it will practically become a self lubing bushing.
Problem with using grease or a lot of oil is that dust and debris will stick to it.
But I'm more concerned about alignment.
If the op doesn't reassemble it exactly in the same position it was in first place this will cause terrible run out issues and possibly components binding and premature wear and tear

Thats why I carefully kept track of all parts, previous owners also marked some parts.
I did struggle finding the burrs that made it bind, but all sorted now.
It is not the most refined and has a bit of an agricultural feel to it, but I only need it to do one returning light job so once a month.
Now I'll look for a camlock D1-4 200mm adapter for it.

 

[indy4x]

It does nothing they are made out of cast iron it already has enough carbon in it to not seize up just little bit of oil to prevent corrosion and fill the microscopic surface irregularities and it will practically become a self lubing bushing.
Problem with using grease or a lot of oil is that dust and debris will stick to it.
But I'm more concerned about alignment.
If the op doesn't reassemble it exactly in the same position it was in first place this will cause terrible run out issues and possibly components binding and premature wear and tear

Carbon comes in several forms, graphite is a good dry lube as from memory the molecules are arranged in sheets so slide easily

Diamond on the other hand is exceptionally hard as the molecules are held in a lattice

 

[oldbikedavey]

Saw chain oil with a splodge of colloidal graphite in it is my preferred chuck ointment.

 

[BrokenBiker]

you mentioned it rattles?

before putting it to work id check its repeatablitiy and jaw allignment...ive just had to replace one of my 3 jaws after i found the jaws didnt clamp the same every time and more often than not 1 jaw was barely clamping at all...that rattled too...replacement chuck i had of Pete on here is smooth and almost silent to operate

 

[Dell]

I was always taught to use ways oil.

 

[Guzrik]

you mentioned it rattles?

before putting it to work id check its repeatablitiy and jaw allignment...ive just had to replace one of my 3 jaws after i found the jaws didnt clamp the same every time and more often than not 1 jaw was barely clamping at all...that rattled too...replacement chuck i had of Pete on here is smooth and almost silent to operate

It didn't have any wear on the gears so I suspect it is due to production tolerances.
In my experience non clamping is because of jamming of the jaws because of burrs or dents.
I will check as soon as I have the adapter.

 

[RichardM]

I use moly grease for the gear teeth as they're fairly well enclosed. For the scroll and jaws a light covering of oil and a stiff brush to keep them clean.