Seat Altea 1.6 petrol MVP

[p0689109]

Just been out to on the Tiguan to try and read "Live" data again. As advised by the dealer (Gendan is their name) I started the car first then plugged in to the diagnostic port and switched the reader on, selected OBD menu then live data and bingo there it was, all singing and dancing. I switched off the engine and the data remained as was until I switched off the ign then switched it to on when the "live" data was there but as the engine was not running all the values were as expected of a non running eng. Started it up and all "Live" data again. So for some reason the reader is now working on the Tiguan. I hope that's how it works on the Altea tomorrow.
Thanks lads for your inputs and help. Much appreciated. I have found a supplier of the cd ELSAWIN discs for the car on ebay. Mind, one of his sites has been suspended as I found out when I went to pay. I had made an offer saving myself £5 too but he directed me to his other account and stood by his discount offer. I have got a set for the Tiguan already and the lads Honda CRV set work the same with the data being streamed from the net. I do not have the car at the moment as the daughter-in-law was desperate to get her hands on it so it is going to be a nightmare to get at it to try and solve the problem. The youngsters today have no patience and want everything now I find or is it my age??

 

[AndyStobbs]

Gendan have always seemed good to me. Haven't bought loads from him, but he supplied my VCDS, Autel and some other bits. Good service I felt. What tool are you using?

 

[p0689109]

Quicklynks T55. Their equivalent now is the Foxwell NT500. £129.95 with 3 year free upgrade apparently as each year the steelers think of something new to force the punters to go to the main dealers apparently!

 

[p0689109]

So got the Seat back today and used the reader. I started the car first and then plugged in the reader and switched it on and selected OBDII and "Live Data" and all was well. But although the defect triggered, as it tends to do from cold, there was nothing on the data that had anything to do with coolant temp or the like. So what should I have been looking for?
The fan location is not behind the glove box and it does not need to be removed. There is a panel underneath it in the roof of the footwell which you take off to get at the pollen filter, three torque headed screws, and the motor sits next to it. Its supposed to be a quarter turn and pull jobby but with my arthritic shoulder and on my knees and bent I have not the strength to get it to turn. Plastic into plastic does not help but hopefully my lad should be able to shift it!

 

[AndyStobbs]

Sounds like you need a better tester, coolant temp is about as basic and essential as it gets.

 

[p0689109]

OK Thanks. I will have a word with Genden on Monday.
I got the blower out with a with a technical tap using the approved tool. The motor is grumbley even though I tried to lube the upper bearing. I ran out in hand and it definitely only runs at speed 4. I have taken a photo of the resistor block and would like to know how to check with a multi-meter. Anybody any ideas.

 

[the snooper]

there should be 1 connection common to the other 3 at varying resistances I would imagine

 

[octo0072000]

just buy a new one £11.45 delivered common fault

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-ALTE...976187?hash=item25b164ff7b:g:y5AAAOSwnGJWSyX8

 

[AndyStobbs]

Replace the thermal fuse on the top with a section of 2.5mm csa wire, or a new thermal fuse from Maplin if you're really posh.

Avoid running it in still air for long, it relies on passing air for cooling, hence why its mounted in an air duct.

 

[zx9]

For under twelve quid it is not realy worth it but if you look up the part no. of the component on the end of the resistor pack you may find it is a thermal fuse, test it and if it is open circuit that will cause the resistor pack to 'fail' giving you only full fan speed.

Edit: Cross posted, kind of what Andy said

 

[p0689109]

Yeh I know the price but it is not my car. It is my sons and money is tight as he is moving house and re-mortgaging and has a very young child so is the only earner at this time so he needs all the help he can get. I know about the still air overheating and would not run it without it all being in the car but thanks for the heads up Andy, I will check that thermal fuse too. Thanks for that tip.

 

[p0689109]

So the messages logged after reading them the second time are recording slightly different to the first lot I reported.
1. Engine coolant Temp sensor (G62) implausible signal :P0116 Sporadiac 009 open or short to grd. In the first instant it was code P0118 short to plus sporadic 006
2. Sensor G83 message was the same but a typing error on the first report said short to plug but it is short to plus.
3. The abs message was the same.
4. The exhaust gas temp sensor message was again logged
This term sporadic, what does it mean Is it just a transient fault that in this case clears when the engine warms up or has it more meaning?

 

[AndyStobbs]

This term sporadic, what does it mean Is it just a transient fault that in this case clears when the engine warms up or has it more meaning?

Think of it like intermittent, though vw (and others) do use the word intermittent too.

G62 sensors are under £10 for a cheapy, easiest to start with that really then worry about wiring if no result. Typically they have 4 wires, though some are two wire. Check before you order. Very easy to change, plastic r-clip holds it into the top hose manifold.

Do that first, but you could really use some additional data to confirm the rad temp fault, never changed one of those but imagine it is similar to G62.

Electrical malfunction in EGT would indicate that sensor is duff, but again more data would be best.

 

[p0689109]

Thanks Andy. The sensor prices on ebay for supposedly OEM items are £19 and £24 approx. each delivered. The cheaper being black with yellow spot and the other grey. The one sensor my local GT(general Traffic car parts shop) stocks is £6 but is not OEM so I will give that one a miss. The sensor in the top hose has two pins but the bottom hose one is more of a challenge as the car will need jacking up and doing that means driving the car onto wooden blocks so that I can just get a jack under it to get the underpanel off to even see the beast!

 

[AndyStobbs]

Generally Tragic as I named them. We have a branch here.

 

[p0689109]

So replaced the fan(big difference in spinning ability) and the resistor pack and all working as per they should. Checked the old resistor as per ZX9 suggestion and it is open circuit. Its is marked S.W.C. SW 1391 250v 10A 216degree C So that sorted. I have only got to try and get the Elsawin discs loaded so that I can try and sort the other faults!

 

[p0689109]

Stripped the old fan and what a state. The bearing had worn so much the "round" hole at the rear where the spindle shaft was mounted was like a double bubble shape and it was oscillating that much that it had started to break off bits of the magnet! Talk about fire risk if it had seized though hopefully if that happened the fuse should blow but things can happen.
Anyway that nice firm GENDAN sent me an email with a update for my T55 reader even though they don't sell it anymore and I had it at least 3 years and it was free. Very helpful. I tried it on the Tiguan and there appears to be a coolant reading as it was marked "ETC (degree C) and read 38 on the Live screen". I assume it means Engine Coolant Temp and it seems to be just a figure to match the pointer on the dash. But there are two sensors in the system one in each hose of the rad so how would that help in fault finding the defect?