How to do it properly? Every single time I use a scribe to find out where to drill and then I use a center punch I never hit the perfect center . No matter if I put the point of the punch in the exact center of the cross ,the center mark will be always off . Why?
give it a gentle tap then look at it. if its slightly off move it over a touch and tap again if its correct give it a good bash
A prick punch is a good thing to have - finer point (30* or less included angle not 120*), with practice you can run it along one scribed line and it sticks where the other crosses it - press it to make a small dent - using only hand pressure, check position, then put the point of the normal centrepunch in the dent and tap once, check it's still centred, then whack it as normal On one US site the language checker changed it to "Jerk punch" - which seems worse to me! Dave H. (the other one)
This is something that bugged me for many years, only resolved for me by adding extra time to the process. I like accuracy and marking the lines accurately with a height gauge then center punching by eye goes against the grain. I blamed punches going blunt and all sorts eventually resorting to marking the centre with the scriber then checking with a loupe and centre punching. I bought myself an optical centre punch as a birthday present some years back, something I should have done years ago. Time consuming but satisfying. What it all comes down to is how accurate you need the hole centres to be. Unless you drill the hole by cenrtreing, centre drilling and going to size in increments then all the accuracy goes out the window. A drill bit into an accurately centre punched hole will drift.
I have a diamond tipped scribe that is great at scribing the lines. I have a steel masonry nail (obo) sharpened to a fine point that I use to feel the intersection of the scribed lines then I hit it a light tap with the hammer, leaving a small punch mark. If it all still lines up it then gets marked with a proper centre punch.
Im with @Hopefuldave prick punch then centre punch is the proper order of operation. I do also have one of these for pricking but mines TESA made couldn't say how good this one will be https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Optical-Ce...-1f7f-4bff-8ed4-bc97a4f4bb6f&epid=14035002526
I'll try again Anyway I'm using a Lidl centre punch And a 1kg hammer (smaller I have) I never strike hard because I know what can happen when two hardened surfaces hit on one each other. Then I use a split point 3mm drill bit to make the pilot hole I'm not making nothing extremely accurate (truck fenders brackets) but I don't like misaligned holes on my projects
With a scribed line you should be able to feel when the point of the centre punch drops into the minute ‘ditch’ as you Lightly draw it across The line
MUCH sharper, only needs hand pressure to make a mark - some have a mushroom shaped handle like a cobbler's awl, which spreads the load and makes 'em comfy to use Dave H. (the other one)
I lean the punch over to see the lines before tilting upright and bashing. I use an auto punch for this, and then give it a heavier whack with a bigger punch and hammer a second time. It's not perfect, but the marks are always within 0.25mm I'd estimate, and you can always move the mark in the way Brightspark suggested. If you want more accurate than that, then optical centre punch would be the way forward
Check the point on the end of your centre punch first. You may find it’s not particularly sharp and will have a tendency to end up anywhere. What size punch are you using? There are various sizes available and smaller punches will help in more accurate scenarios. And don’t worry about the hammer hitting the punch, the punch will be softer but safety specs should be used regardless, very hard punch shanks will chip when excessively bruised which is why they should be dressed now and again. Also, once you’ve lined up the punch give it ONE moderate tap and then look at the hole. If you give it a gentle tap first then hit (akin to a practice swing) this will make the punch jump. If it doesn’t hit dead centre then you can angle the punch in the direction you need to move the punched indent over and elongate the hole. Then give it a bigger whack and it should be near enough. opticals are very good also and if you need greater accuracy then it’s one of those or you’ll be limited to a milling machine. As said, you should be able to get within 10 thou. Failing that, you can always force the drill over slightly when making the hole.
I'm using a cordless drill. I don't have a milling machine or even a drill press. I would get more accuracy if in the future I'll make a fixture table using my mag drill . And also because I've asked about a job as apprentice in a machining shop
