Rusty Rangie - Advice Please

[darren.a.roberts]

Range Rover Classic - front bulkhead mount has rotted through so it's got to be fixed for the MOT. Really after some advice as to the best way to tackle this one.....

Got a new mount from YRM which is made of heavy duty zinctec steel (looks like about 2mm). I've already moved the brake lines but I've got two fuel lines running right underneath it between where the mount needs to be welded and the chassis.

Should this be plug welded or seam welded (the original looks like it was plug welded) ? The nearside looks like it would be fairly easy to get to but what about the underside and far side - doesn't look like there is much room.

The bulkhead is only 1.2mm so the usual challenge of different size materials.....oh joy of joys....

Any suggestions appreciated.....

 

[spaffmonkey]

Can you disconnect the fuel hose near tank and just puts a bolt in the end to stop it leaking while welding. In the past when welding near fuel pipes I have wrapped tin foil round them so sparks bounce off. With regards to welding bracket on I would seem weld it on.

 

[darren.a.roberts]

Thanks. I will try that. The fuel pipes actually run on top of the chassis in plastic clips - I will see if I can get them out and move them out of the way, and what ever happens use your trick with the tin foil and maybe some wet rags....

 

[Kent]

After having a major mishap with a pertrol fuel line years ago I should now remove to a safe area along with the tank

 

[Highway_Star]

I have done this on mine.

At the time I happened to be replacing the boot floor, so I had the tank out. I renewed the fuel line with hose as part of the job, the the original steel pipe was very crusty! Mine is EFi so said pipe has fuel under pressure, lines needed renewed at some point so might as well do it all.

 

[taycat]

dad always used a fire blanket to cover things like that.
or a plumbers mat if space was tight.

 

[Rig Pig]

Keep a fire extinguisher handy if you leave the lines anywhere close to the welding.

 

[DanielW]

Range Rover Classic - front bulkhead mount has rotted through so it's got to be fixed for the MOT. Really after some advice as to the best way to tackle this one.....


Any suggestions appreciated.....

yeah stop wasting time and money....can't believe someone would want to plough money into this wheelbarrow.

Sorry but these where the pits in the range rover series,just my view though.

 

[roofman]

yeah stop wasting time and money....can't believe someone would want to plough money into this wheelbarrow.

Sorry but these where the pits in the range rover series,just my view though.

Miles better than the P38 and iff a 2 door then it should deffo be saved from the scrap man

 

[darren.a.roberts]

More comfy than a defender......not a two door, late four door bobtail.......

Daniel I'm going to agree to differ on this one...yes quality not great but I love the shape and the comfort compare to a Defender.....as they say everyone who doesn't have a hobby is unfaithful to their wife.........

 

[roofman]

I love the rangies...heres a couple pics of my last one and a nice high side exit zorst i made

 

[darren.a.roberts]

Lovely motor roofman.....

 

[Masterofnone]

Lovely motor roofman.....

Range Rover Classic - front bulkhead mount has rotted through so it's got to be fixed for the MOT. Really after some advice as to the best way to tackle this one.....

Got a new mount from YRM which is made of heavy duty zinctec steel (looks like about 2mm). I've already moved the brake lines but I've got two fuel lines running right underneath it between where the mount needs to be welded and the chassis.

Should this be plug welded or seam welded (the original looks like it was plug welded) ? The nearside looks like it would be fairly easy to get to but what about the underside and far side - doesn't look like there is much room.

The bulkhead is only 1.2mm so the usual challenge of different size materials.....oh joy of joys....

Any suggestions appreciated.....

Excuse the first post, been lurking and reading through for a while.
I am an MOT tester and just thought I would mention to the o/p that:
A single failed body to chassis mount on a vehicle with a chassis, is in itself not a fail on the MOT test. Even if you had 3 body mounts out of, say, eight missing then you should still pass. Even 4 would be marginal for a fail and could be called either way depending upon whether they were located all at one side or at one end of the vehicle.
However if you have excessive corrosion in a panel that is directly supportive to a brake, steering, seat belt or suspension mounting then that will fail.
It is difficult to see but is that is a hole under where the body mount sits? If so then that repair will need to be seam welded but the body bracket itself can be spot welded as it was originally. It often gives a longer overall weld than if it was seamed.
Wet rags, tin foil and or/a plumbers mat are usually sufficient to put over fuel pipes. I would leave the clips in place as they will be very brittle by now, as might be the fuel pipe. If you do unclip then be very gentle.

 

[darren.a.roberts]

Masterofnone...thanks for the advice. Id do have a small hole in the bulkhead up and to the left of the top photo - had and inch by an inch (cold chisel went through whilst removing the supporting panel for the inner wing -the piece that runs 90 degrees from the top left of the new mount). The main corrosion was on the body mount itself - the offside part was completely non-existent.

It's a late model Classic with ABS so the ABS pump is bolted to the top off the inner wing (which also had excessive corrosion) so using your advice above a pretty high chance of MOT failure....

I've got a plumbers mat, some spare sheet steel and I'm sure I can find some wet rags so that's the approach I'm going to go for, in a well ventilated area with fire extinguisher and phone to hand!

cheers everyone for the advice so far....

 

[Masterofnone]

Masterofnone...thanks for the advice. Id do have a small hole in the bulkhead up and to the left of the top photo - had and inch by an inch (cold chisel went through whilst removing the supporting panel for the inner wing -the piece that runs 90 degrees from the top left of the new mount). The main corrosion was on the body mount itself - the offside part was completely non-existent.

It's a late model Classic with ABS so the ABS pump is bolted to the top off the inner wing (which also had excessive corrosion) so using your advice above a pretty high chance of MOT failure....

I've got a plumbers mat, some spare sheet steel and I'm sure I can find some wet rags so that's the approach I'm going to go for, in a well ventilated area with fire extinguisher and phone to hand!

cheers everyone for the advice so far....

I know the bits you mean but without seeing it it is difficult to be sure and give definitive advice but you can tidy up a hole and insert a grommet or even cut out and remove metal back to sound material as long as it does not lead to a lack of control under braking or steering.
Some modification is acceptable within the mot.
A tester would probably be incorrect to fail a Range Rover inner wing unless it was absolutely rotten and the pump was hanging because due to the chassis, the inner wing is not a prescribed area. Ie it is not load bearing or structural.
Something like a panel supporting a brake servo mounting that takes a direct load from a pedal would be a prescribed area.

 

[colnerov]

Hi, if that was me doing that job I would mark up and drill the body and puddle weld onto the bracket from inside the car. It would give a more comfortable welding position and keep most of the sparks away from the fuel lines.

Colin

 

[darren.a.roberts]

Hi, if that was me doing that job I would mark up and drill the body and puddle weld onto the bracket from inside the car. It would give a more comfortable welding position and keep most of the sparks away from the fuel lines.

Colin

I was actually thinking about doing that myself......weld from the thin to thick. ....I think I may do that first ad then see if it needs any beads running on the outside.....