Rust Repair Advice Please

  1. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    Hello everyone

    I just joined yesterday, quite a regular on this forum when wanting to learn anything about welding. thanks so much for the knowledge shared. By practising more and more and learning from my mistakes by coming onto here when facing difficulty. I am an ameatur welder now.

    I have been welding my project car for the past two months on and off when I find the time. I have done the following. Bearing in mind there are no repair panels for this car.

    inner sills
    inner sills to floor
    floor sections

    pretty much now the floor is solid
    the inner sills are solid.

    I have a long way to go.

    sections of outer sill
    rear outer arches
    rear inner arches
    boot floor
    door to roof panel drivers
    rear bumper panel
    rear bottom front quarter panels

    looking to get some advice from anyone on here. about making sections for the door to roof panel. looks like two sections.

    also the rear inner arches. from sheet metal I have not got the tooling required to get the exact lip shape so I can plug weld to outer arches. is there a solution to this
     
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    Nick DV likes this.
  2. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    2,033
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    Looks like youve made a good start , what sort of car is it .
    As many here will tell you the car restoration side of welding is very interesting and very rewarding , which is just as well as it can be very slow going , I think i spend about 5% of my working time actually welding , fabricating and fitting is where the time and effort seems to go.
     
  3. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    421
    Location:
    'ull
    Looks like a Supra ?
     
    stuvy likes this.
  4. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    Thanks man. Yes I learnt that too. first I was eager to see those welds in place. But spending the time in making the fit just right really helps out in the long run. I.e time spent welding and grinding down.

    it is a supra mk3. have had all the subframes and suspension components shot blasted. 3 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of jotuns mastic 90.

    slowly but surely gathering parts month by month until the jigsaw comes together. I am In uncharted waters haha.
     
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    Nick DV and metalmelt like this.
  5. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    you know your cars.
     
  6. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    10,932
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    well welcome to the madhouse here

    as you have already found out loads of info for anyone

    and now theres more info since you joined the site

    have fun and enjoy the banter on here whilst posting on other posts as well :thumbup:
     
  7. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    421
    Location:
    'ull
    Mate had one about 10 years ago, I did a fair bit of welding on it. Similar to what your doing but his wasn't quite as bad.
     
  8. metalmelt Member

    Messages:
    373
    Location:
    UK
    A simple solution is to make formers, these are shaped in wood roughly to shape and you can make wooden hammers from blocks of hardwood to shape them, I always make them oversize and slowly work to an approximate shape and them fine tune them to an exact shape. It is worth the time and effort of doing this and one of my best tools is actually a willow log (large tree trunk) stood on its end with a large bowl cut into the top as this forms many shapes and you soon get a collection of useful timber shapes and sizes.
     
    Nick DV likes this.
  9. outofthefire

    outofthefire Member

    Messages:
    2,336
    Leeds
    The top of that door looks well rotted, I think it'd be a pig to try and make from scratch can't you pick up another from a scrapper ? Even if the bottom was rotted you could rescue the window frame.
     
  10. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green

    thanks Gaz. it's slow going but will try to keep the updates on here.
     
  11. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    ah nice. I have never driven one. had it for around a year. just want to get into that drivers seat and get some miles done in it. how did you find them? was yours a turbo?
     
  12. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    thanks. will start looking more into that side of things. I have a pine tree stump. will get some practise on it. the rest of the car I am pretty confident in doing. just want to get the metal work done right and as I am not as experienced in it , I am a little apprehensive at times. but guess I just got to get stuck in their.

    t
     
  13. Mr Roo

    Mr Roo Member

    Messages:
    363
    Location:
    Edinburgh
    you mean you BOUGHT IT like that?!

    you’ll not go wrong on this forum :D
     
    Richiew likes this.
  14. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    Yes, quite a complex piece. bends and angles. just so hard to find someone cutting up a shell. otherwise that was my first thought. the search continues.
     
  15. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    yep. I know crazy.
     
    Mr Roo likes this.
  16. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    421
    Location:
    'ull
    It was a friends (mate) not mine Samir, I just did the welding. Yes it was a turbo and pretty rapid, it's his favourite talk about car now the one I think he regrets selling.
     
  17. metalmelt Member

    Messages:
    373
    Location:
    UK
    Samir; locate your block and square the top off, mark a circle around 9-12" diameter and cut it into a bowl shape hollow and roughly finish it and working metal will finally finish it.
     
  18. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    sounds brilliant. I didn't expect so much rust on mine, il have to be patient but good to know it will be worthwhile hopefully. I guess your a dab hand at metal work. are you a full time welder?
     
  19. samir New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Birmingham, Hall Green
    thanks for the guide. will do it and see how I get on. think that would be helpful when making up the inner arches. do you think I would be able to weld straight onto the inner outer arch instead of making the lip that the inner arch joins to the outer arch, where you spot weld?
     
  20. metalmelt Member

    Messages:
    373
    Location:
    UK
    I tend to measure the old spot weld locations, drill, then plug weld and grind to a flush finish; many modern cars have their spot welds "designed" which basically means they are optimally located for a combination of ease of spot welding and body strength. I would make the lip as it gives a better finish.

    I use one plug weld as this gives an accurate location and a datum point to work from for your spot welds and you can then spot in the same location as the original welds and maintain the original manufacturers designed integrity.
     
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