- Thread starter julianf
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Have a look at the brick laying system called "English Bond". Assuming this is 9" thick construction both leaves will be well connected. Do not forget a granular drainage layer near the base of the wall and apertures to relieve wall pressure. Use a sand cement mixture at around 3:1 [sand to cement]. Consider using a plasticiser for mortar workability.
Pete.
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I've got a fantastic pic to demonstrate this from a demo job I did. Let me see if I can find it....
Smallfry
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Oooh ! Ready made modular brick walls for quick assembly. 13 inch too ! Where can I buy some ?
Morris
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Our old garden wall was built like that, it wobbled alarmingly if you nudged it. I just pushed over when I got rid of it for the rebuild.
gaz1
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if that happens just with a wall just imagine what it does to something much bigger
i chuckle when people with new houses keep bragging away
as i know there house is like that brick wall as that was where the damp coarse was fitted
brightspark
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i had a lad come round with his jcb to clear rubble away someone said you havent any garden walls have you yea why 
hese famous for them . all i heard was a big thump and looked out , couldnt believe it hede knocked it down 
good job i was building a new one all the way round
hese famous for them . all i heard was a big thump and looked out , couldnt believe it hede knocked it down good job i was building a new one all the way roundPigeon_Droppings2
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If the brick is up against soil directly then I'd say better to have the correct brick (frost rated etc).
If they're just regular house bricks for above the dpm I'm not sure they'd last long...the moisture tends to penetrate...then with a good frost it'll start blowing the bricks apart.
If they're just regular house bricks for above the dpm I'm not sure they'd last long...the moisture tends to penetrate...then with a good frost it'll start blowing the bricks apart.
julianf
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I'll take a photo of them. I think there some sort of engineered brick. Have holes though them.
I seem to have more than I initially thought -
380 units.
With an English bond, over a length of 2.8m, how can I calculate the possible final height?
(I was going to curve the soil down as I didn't think I had enough bricks to go higher than my initial 0.5m)
The function of this job is to stop the garden flowing onto a concrete slab that will have a tank on it. It's all outdoor stuff. The soil is very stable here also.
I seem to have more than I initially thought -
380 units.
With an English bond, over a length of 2.8m, how can I calculate the possible final height?
(I was going to curve the soil down as I didn't think I had enough bricks to go higher than my initial 0.5m)
The function of this job is to stop the garden flowing onto a concrete slab that will have a tank on it. It's all outdoor stuff. The soil is very stable here also.
julianf
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....random internet calculators seem to think that will do 1m high over 2.8m, which is likely more than I want, and, I would assume, create complications anyway with buttressing.
This is the hole -
...but it won't actually be anywhere near that deep as a slab is going in the bottom and then the soil is going down by 150mm at the top also.
You can see the cave at the end. That was a rodent hole from some time back. Not caved in.
This is the hole -
...but it won't actually be anywhere near that deep as a slab is going in the bottom and then the soil is going down by 150mm at the top also.
You can see the cave at the end. That was a rodent hole from some time back. Not caved in.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I'm not a brick layer so I tend to keep things simple...if the bricks have holes then I'd stick bar thro the first course into the base. Also would stainless ties give you the same strength with a lot less hassle? + fill all the brick holes too.
Backfilling the soil side with non absorbent solid material at the base will help a lot (rock/broken bricks etc)...and also allow for drainage at the base.
Backfilling the soil side with non absorbent solid material at the base will help a lot (rock/broken bricks etc)...and also allow for drainage at the base.
PD. that's interesting , do you know if red engineering brick come in frost ratings .. 14 yrs ago we spent a lot of money on so called class one engineering bricks to have a professional master builder make 22 off 4x4 foot 3 foot high raised veg flower beds in block of four or six beds .
Six yrs ago they have started blowing on all exposed faces, the mortar has also crumbled away so the soldier course at the top has started falling out .
Your thoughts & those of others would be much appreciated .
