Replica swords

[Beanmetalworks]

Hi got to drill some holes in replica swords! Was wondering what sort of metal they are coz my normal drill bits arnt touching them?

 

[astro_al]

???!!!

A little more info? The term 'replica sword' covers a massive spectrum of items, from all over the world.

Al.

 

[Beanmetalworks]

Replica sword

It's a medieval replica sword like excalibur looking type sword I got drill 3 8mm holes in end of it but normal metal drill bits just sit on top of it and don't drill it atall can u help?? Lol

 

[Wozzaaah]

Have you tried a cobalt bit?

 

[Beanmetalworks]

Yeah did it bit in but then went blunt bit annoying

 

[Beanmetalworks]

Well actually the drill bit hasn't gone blunt it just won't drill it don't seem to want to bite into the metal?

 

[astro_al]

Heat the end up with a torch (or whatever you have), then let it air cool. It'll drill then. I expect it has work hardened.

Al.

 

[Shox Dr]

Is the end of the drill bit turning blue. If so the sword is possibly Stainless Steel, the drill bit will initially bite, then over heat and lose it's temper. Try lots of cutting fluid slower speed and more pressure

 

[pedrobedro]

It sounds like they might be work hardening like stainless does. You need a constant speed, not too fast and constant pressure with lots of cutting fluid. Can you turn it over and drill from the other side to miss the bit you hardened.

 

[Country Joe]

the drill bit will initially bite, then over heat and lose it's temper.

Yeah, and you don't want to get surrounded by angry drill bits, when all you've got is a sword!

CJ

Sorry, Shox - couldn't help myself!

 

[Shox Dr]

There's an echo in here

 

[brightspark]

Yeah, and you don't want to get surrounded by angry drill bits, when all you've got is a sword!

CJ

Sorry, Shox - couldn't help myself!

posted in the wrong section should have been in jokes but dont put oil on it keep em clean

 

[hotrodder]

As said 'replica' covers a lot of ground from decorative to real but in a specific style. Googling 'replica sword 440c' got lots of hits for fully functional swords made from the right stuff (quenched and tempered blade steels)

 

[Beanmetalworks]

so if it does turn out to be stainless steel is there dif types of drill bits???? using a mag drill with adaptor for normal drill bits. only ever really drilled normal steel so not really no much about this. if i go down heating up road does it still keep its strenght after??

 

[mike os]

seem to recall a lot of repro swords are stainless....

sharp bit, (I prefer cobalt for it), slow-ish speed, coolant/oil & drill through with firm & constant pressure, if it rubs once the steel will work harden & you is screwed

if you have a lot to do laser cutting might be an option

 

[Beanmetalworks]

can holes be punch through stainless???? or u think it will shatter the sword?

 

[astro_al]

Yes, you can punch stainless no problem, and drill it easily.

What speed was your drill running at & what size was the drill bit?

Were you using coolant or cutting oil?

Al.

 

[roofman]

get the plasma cutter out

 

[Hitch]

can holes be punch through stainless???? or u think it will shatter the sword?

Yes, but depends on thickness, if you only want 8mm holes, you wouldn't want to punch more than about 5mm thick.

Other trouble with punching, is there is a chance you might distort it around the hole.

 

[hotrodder]

Stainless covers a lot of ground. The 440C i mentioned earlier is a martensitic stainless used for making good quality blades as it can by hardened by heat treatment to high enough levels to hold an edge

Amongst the first few results from googling 'replica medieval swords stainless' were hits to blades made from 420C and 440C hardened to 45-50 HRC (similar hardness to chisels/axes?) despite being left unedged

Wave a magnet at it, if there's barely any responce then you're dealing with workhardened 300 series stainless. If it's strongly magnetic then it's more likely to be a quenched and tempered blade.