The house we live in is approaching 40 years old and the garage door as fitted only had single point locking. I retrofitted frame locks in the lower corners but this still eaves the top corners vulnerable, and I don't want to have to undog 4 separate locks and the centre one to get in. We appear tp be seeing more break-ins in our town so I'm looking at a replacement door. We've no other access than the front door, and having just spoken to one installer he said that while 4 point secure doors are very good, if anything goes wrong with them without alternative access you're pretty much screwed and would be tin-openering the door and replacing it. He suggested a powered roller shutter which I'd dismissed as over complicated but thought I'd consult the forum hive mind for experience and opinions s if you've either please share them with me. If anyone has any idea of typical costs for a fitted door I'd welcome those too.
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iNf
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I got my door from here https://rollerdor.net/ I fitted it myself.
They had options of a lockable outside manual override incase of power failure. You can configure/ price it up online to give a cost idea.
keithski122
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I have heavy duty steel security double doors fitted to my garage which I use as a workshop. I'd imagine roller doors would be a huge pain for me as I'm continuously in and out.All nicely insulated too.
https://www.lathamssteeldoors.co.uk/security-garage-doors/side-hinged-garage-door/
https://www.lathamssteeldoors.co.uk/security-garage-doors/side-hinged-garage-door/
We had Hormann side hinged insulated garage doors fitted, nice doors, but after 4 years the paint started to chip off, where the panels meet the uprights. Hormann said it wasn't covered by their 10 year guarantee, 
but did send me one of their cleaning and touch up kits FOC.
If you like to be in the garage with an up and over partially open to get ventilation while keeping out the rain then side hinged aren't as good IMO.
but did send me one of their cleaning and touch up kits FOC.If you like to be in the garage with an up and over partially open to get ventilation while keeping out the rain then side hinged aren't as good IMO.
Jelly_Sheffield
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At the risk of reinforcing a reputation I've gained in some corners for over-thinking and over-building things...
I made my own bi-folding doors out 63mm thick Acoya, glazed with laminated security glass, and locked at 5 points (giving a total of 9 attachment points to the frame when the security hinges are considered) into a 200mm×100mm frame that's bolted into the walls and floor with 15 x 200mm concrete screws, with the cill set in concrete from the outside.
Shown here the afternoon I installed it before I concreted the cill in.
Given it's a concrete panel garage, any realistic attempt to pry it open would result in bringing the whole bloody structure down and the glazing is manufacturer guaranteed against a sledgehammer attack, so the only real vulnerability would be a chainsaw.
From a practical point of view it's proved to be the best of both worlds between a garage door and a regular door, although if I had my time again I would have taken the extra time to chase out the concrete and fit the bottom track flush with the floor of the garage.
The whole build cost about £1500 in materials (bi-folding ironmongery isn't cheap, but I got a good deal on the glass) and 7-ish days work total, I probably still have the CAD files somewhere if you wanted to adapt the design.
The one piece of advice I would give is not to cheerfully assemble the whole thing inside the garage laying flat and only then realise you need to manoeuvre a ~400kg fully finished door unit almost the exact same size as the internal dimensions of the garage into position and stand it up...
Not that I know anyone who has done that of course
I made my own bi-folding doors out 63mm thick Acoya, glazed with laminated security glass, and locked at 5 points (giving a total of 9 attachment points to the frame when the security hinges are considered) into a 200mm×100mm frame that's bolted into the walls and floor with 15 x 200mm concrete screws, with the cill set in concrete from the outside.
Shown here the afternoon I installed it before I concreted the cill in.
Given it's a concrete panel garage, any realistic attempt to pry it open would result in bringing the whole bloody structure down and the glazing is manufacturer guaranteed against a sledgehammer attack, so the only real vulnerability would be a chainsaw.
From a practical point of view it's proved to be the best of both worlds between a garage door and a regular door, although if I had my time again I would have taken the extra time to chase out the concrete and fit the bottom track flush with the floor of the garage.
The whole build cost about £1500 in materials (bi-folding ironmongery isn't cheap, but I got a good deal on the glass) and 7-ish days work total, I probably still have the CAD files somewhere if you wanted to adapt the design.
The one piece of advice I would give is not to cheerfully assemble the whole thing inside the garage laying flat and only then realise you need to manoeuvre a ~400kg fully finished door unit almost the exact same size as the internal dimensions of the garage into position and stand it up...
Not that I know anyone who has done that of course
My ex had a pre-fab garage put up as a shed - one single access "security" door. The lock jammed . . . boss of the well known garage company came out to look . . .levered off a roof panel in his shirt and tie, jumped down and in, opened door from inside.
Everyone still happy with the "security" door . . .
Everyone still happy with the "security" door . . .
ajlelectronics
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I went for sectional electric doors, from a Polish equivalent of Hormann. It still uses Hormann motor units though. Secure and insulated too. Available in any RAL colour, so I went with 5011 Steel blue.
ajlelectronics
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DAPPH
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Such is the limited knowledge of these local companies ???
Our 12 yr old electric fob operated roller door with insulation filled roller slats has an external device for slow hand opening in the event of a power failure , it can be left in place or removed & kept safe along with the winding handle indoors .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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That price is almost the same as my full width roller door , If my mancupboard was a lot bigger I have one as a side door access too .
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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At the risk of reinforcing a reputation I've gained in some corners for over-thinking and over-building things...
I made my own bi-folding doors out 63mm thick Acoya, glazed with laminated security glass, and locked at 5 points (giving a total of 9 attachment points to the frame when the security hinges are considered) into a 200mm×100mm frame that's bolted into the walls and floor with 15 x 200mm concrete screws, with the cill set in concrete from the outside.
View attachment 482795
Shown here the afternoon I installed it before I concreted the cill in.
Given it's a concrete panel garage, any realistic attempt to pry it open would result in bringing the whole bloody structure down and the glazing is manufacturer guaranteed against a sledgehammer attack, so the only real vulnerability would be a chainsaw.
From a practical point of view it's proved to be the best of both worlds between a garage door and a regular door, although if I had my time again I would have taken the extra time to chase out the concrete and fit the bottom track flush with the floor of the garage.
The whole build cost about £1500 in materials (bi-folding ironmongery isn't cheap, but I got a good deal on the glass) and 7-ish days work total, I probably still have the CAD files somewhere if you wanted to adapt the design.
The one piece of advice I would give is not to cheerfully assemble the whole thing inside the garage laying flat and only then realise you need to manoeuvre a ~400kg fully finished door unit almost the exact same size as the internal dimensions of the garage into position and stand it up...
Not that I know anyone who has done that of course
In through the roof in seconds. 
,like wot sum twot did to mine 30 yrs ago 
Jelly_Sheffield
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I mitigated that risk too...
The cement board might not be much of an obstacle but the 22mm OSB 3 lining that's screwed to the steel trusses with self tappers from the inside should keep them at bay for a while.
It was an absolute pig to install, and cost a fortune compared to the 9mm osb on the walls, but substantially increases the difficulty of a break in...
At the risk of seeming rather hard hearted, on a practical level it doesn't need to be burglar-proof (and nothing will be against a truly determined thief), just more burglar-resistant than my neighbours on either side.
I was more perturbed there was no mention of trousers when she told me . . .Why did he have a roof panel in his shirt and tie?
ajlelectronics
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addjunkie
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I fitted a steel powered roller shutter door onto what was a car port, easy enough, but blooming heavy, not a one man job. It has the emergency no power winder through the wall into my next garage.
It came from here
It came from here
addjunkie
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Lockable External Override | Autoroll
This product is used to open the door from the outside in the event of power failure. £100.00 plus £7.95 delivery.
www.auto-roll.com
If its your only door
keithski122
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