Removing railings fitted by lead

[Shox Dr]

As a kid I used to make shot for my catapult in a pair of period gang ball pliers.
Made from bronze they soon too hot to hold, so I would cool them down in water, one time I didn't make sure they were dry and while pouring in the next lot of lead the water vapourised firing molten lead out hitting me in the face. One bit the size of an old penny, landed just to the side of my left eye. You can't see the scar these days, but it took years to go, I was so lucky it missed my eye.

 

[baconbarm]

I took the railings out on Monday, I estimated half a day for removal and for once it actually took less time than I thought it would, I had the six sections off and in the van within an hour

The spigots were approx. 2" wide by 1/2" thick flat bar, luckily for me they were only set around 4" into the stone and once I ground off the bolts it turns out they were all loose and wobbly anyway so they pulled out easily.

Now for my next question

I can refit them by melting lead into the hole, but id rather use resin which has been suggested.....any ideas on which kind of resin to use? I was thinking about the stuff for anchoring in stud bar as a possibility????

 

[Pete.]

Five Star non-shrink grout is what I would use. Anchor resin is designed for minimal clearance, usually about 2mm. Apart from that you could expect to use a tube a hole at 20-30 quid a pop whereas you'll do the lot with one bag of grout.

 

[nickk]

+ for above & make sure its the quick set cement.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

The reason lead is used is if/when the spigots rust and expand the lead takes up the difference stopping the stonework from splitting! You could be opening up a whole can of worms in the future if you use a non-plastic cement. (Plastic as in soft not as in man made).

 

[Pete.]

I don't understand that at all. Lead is malleable alright but it's not compressible so why would it allow for expansion? I always assumed it was used simply because it's pourable and sets quick.

 

[clift_d]

The lead at least is impermeable and so prevents corrosion caused by water getting to the ends of the railing in the stone - a grout would not necessarily do this and so you risk rust expansion and which could lead to fracturing the stone copings if it occurs. Westminster Planning Department recommend the use of either hot lead poured in, or lead wool which you can pack in cold and keep hammering in until the whole base is solid and the surface dressed. They also suggest epoxy coating the railing ends before you refit the railing as an extra precaution.

 

[jinjahbiscuit]

If the resin / grout completely fills the holes around the railings then there'll be no way for water to get in, no oxygen from the air and no means for corrosion to start with surely?

 

[clift_d]

I guess resin/ grout is probably even harder to remove than lead in future, so you're only storing up extra problems for the client. The lead wool at least is a cold process and apparently no shrinkage away from the sides like the hot lead.