123hotchef
Member
- Messages
- 14,360
- Location
- Kent
i have used a rawl bolt before i purchased a proper blind bearing puller
- Thread starter Dieselman 63
- Start date
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,847
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
Yeah I've been looking at them but if there's a way you can do it with other tools I'm more partial to try that first than splash out on cash (which is now going to go on new bearings)
Dynabolts, brilliant!
just wish I had some 1" dia...123hotchef
Member
- Messages
- 14,360
- Location
- Kent
i have a similar set works well
123hotchef
Member
- Messages
- 14,360
- Location
- Kent
hacksaw blade?
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,847
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
That will mangle the casting. Scratch test shows the cast iron marks and the bearing the nail just skates off.
Retrieval will go in the following order:
1) Re-assemble and re-wire Fobco motor, re-attach to Fobco
2) Drill out the cast to gain a means of access behind the bearing, also weakening it to allow it to be removed
3) Never bother repainting the Fobco motor now that it is reattached
Dieselman 63
Forklift Certified
- Messages
- 5,847
- Location
- Wellington, New Zealand
I know a guy who's honest and does it by the minute rather than the hour. I'll see what he thinks.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,246
- Location
- Going Away.
take a 62 nail, turn it upside down.
Tap the head underneath the race, work your way round and it will lift up. Then gently lever out.
I have seen the old trick of packing the hole with a thick grease, then with a bolt ground down to be a tight fit hammer it in. The adjusted head forces the grease under the bearing and lift it out.
Gently heating the case will help.
Heat and pipe freezer spray will help. If that has bean mentioned before I am sorry my phone is not allowing me to scan up.
Tap the head underneath the race, work your way round and it will lift up. Then gently lever out.
I have seen the old trick of packing the hole with a thick grease, then with a bolt ground down to be a tight fit hammer it in. The adjusted head forces the grease under the bearing and lift it out.
Gently heating the case will help.
Heat and pipe freezer spray will help. If that has bean mentioned before I am sorry my phone is not allowing me to scan up.
Ton-up
Member
- Messages
- 2,321
- Location
- Essex, England.
You say you have the inner and balls? put it back together and knock it out using the inner?
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,872
- Location
- Kent, UK
This is what I do. You only need four or five balls. Cram them in one side, put the inner race in and spread the balls around using tissue paper to space them out so that the inner race is now held in place and you can then drive the lot out by drifting on the inner race.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,246
- Location
- Going Away.
@Dieselkid 63
If you can find one on Flea bay, this RS kit is good. Got me out of trouble, more than once.
If you can find one on Flea bay, this RS kit is good. Got me out of trouble, more than once.
you can't get behind it to press it out ?
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
- Messages
- 12,874
- Location
- NE London - UK
The picture isn't that clear @Dieselkid 63
It looks to me as though it's a thrust bearing, hence the centre journal and cage coming out easily. Is that the case? If so, then failing the means to shrink it with weld, I'd go with the suggestion of heat and freezer spray. Get it nice and hot, spray the centre of the race and then slam it face down onto a couple of wooden blocks on a solid surface. It should shock loose if not out at the first try.
It looks to me as though it's a thrust bearing, hence the centre journal and cage coming out easily. Is that the case? If so, then failing the means to shrink it with weld, I'd go with the suggestion of heat and freezer spray. Get it nice and hot, spray the centre of the race and then slam it face down onto a couple of wooden blocks on a solid surface. It should shock loose if not out at the first try.
Ashley Burton
Member
- Messages
- 5,123
- Location
- Northamptonhire
I'm pretty certain this hasn't been suggested already, But thought about using a couple of sockets (1 large & 1 small) with a long enough bolt to go through both sockets & the bearing/housing. As you tighten the bolt up it will pull the bearing out with the assistance of the sockets. Done it loads of times on bike frames.
8ob
Member
- Messages
- 14,405
- Location
- Nescient in the vale
Ok so no grinding, welding, gluing, freezing, heating or chisleing at the casing or bearing track 
How about drilling two or three six mm holes in the casing with an angle drill directly behind the bearing track, you could then put short rods in the holes with a flat plate across them and press them out with a mandrel from the other side. Leave the holes for future maintenance .
Bob
How about drilling two or three six mm holes in the casing with an angle drill directly behind the bearing track, you could then put short rods in the holes with a flat plate across them and press them out with a mandrel from the other side. Leave the holes for future maintenance .
Bob
