Swift&Bold
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After blasting I sprayed mine with Jotomastic smartpack with no other coating and its still holding up well, fine if you just want one of the standard colours.
Very nice, polybushed aswell.
After blasting I sprayed mine with Jotomastic smartpack with no other coating and its still holding up well, fine if you just want one of the standard colours.
Yes, I did the job right outside our front door, my Mrs was not at all pleased.Is that from you Jaguar?
just humour themYes, I did the job right outside our front door, my Mrs was not at all pleased.
That's what Jotun said to me but recommended it for permanently wet environments like below the waterline of a boatYes, through galvanic protection like zinc, though alu is less anodic then zinc.
Yes, through galvanic protection like zinc, though alu is less anodic then zinc.
Is that the Jotun Hardtop that is too shiney? All the Jotun top coats are shiney I think. I also need a non shiney top coat to do my wheels and interior. The shiney finish has grown on me though.but I also don't really like the properties of Hardtop Flexi. It's too shiny, marks easily, where it ends up being dull grey.
Remind me why youre using the AL on steel parts? And isn't Jotun 87 an epoxy primer?Jotamastic 87 AL below or just some 2k epoxy primer.
Ideally you're supposed to keep to one system of paint, but many people don't and seems ok. Pretty sure the Jotun datasheet says it's ok to coat in other brands and lists the different types of paint that it's compatible with.Is Jotun compatible with any PU topcoat?
10h min is normal isn't it? You can go over three months but you need to roughen the surface so it can get a mechanical lock because at that stage the paint is presumably too set to get a chemical lock.Jotun Application Guide states min 10h to overcoat with itself and max 3 months to overcoat with a PU (on 23C) before roughening the surface. That's definitely not a few hours. So what's the best way laying the coats?