Reference Books

[clevinski]

Hi...

I'm a little disappointed. I've been trying to find a reference book that provides the basics of MIG welding, including the proper technique for fitting parts together (see photo below for one random example that appeared in "Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch; unfortunately, there are only a few such examples in the book). Yet most of the books and eBooks I've found give an overview of the different welding processes and not much in terms of the correct way to connect members. For example, I don't know if the photo below is intended for use only in the middle of a frame or at the corners. When I've build square frames from angle, I miter the corners, as in the photo below; is that wrong?

What would be a good book for an overview of these basic fitting techniques?

BTW, I found the Finch book helpful in a number of other ways and it gave me a much better background on other types of welding, especially TIG, that I didn't have before, so it was worth the money.

 

[lansalot]

For what it's worth, a lot of people advised the Haynes welding book. I grabbed it off the net (ahem) for a quick look to see if it was worth buying. It was more of a type-of-welding overview. Complete waste of time...

 

[Splatfest]

Have a look at this thread clicky
There may be something in there for you

 

[fingers99]

That's defo middle of frame (at the top).

I like the Fournier books (same series as the Finch one) and available on a peer to peer network near to you, Race and Custom Car Metal Fabricators's Handbook and Sheet Metal Handbook or from a bookshop.

Both have the inspirational quality of the Finch book (completely lacking in the Haynes one!).

But the clicky above should give you plenty of ideas.

Of course, anotherer way is to just wander around looking at stuff, and if there's a weldor about, ask "why did you do it that way?"

 

[Jackel]

Get on the miller web site and download the PDF files on mig Think its in resourses

 

[Sanny]

That notch in the top picture can be used for a corner joint instead of a mitre

 

[clevinski]

Splatfest, I have been going through them slowly. So far I haven't found any quite on the mark, but I've only read a small percentage. BTW, it's surprising how much contradictory info there is. One book says to use a torch to stress relieve, another says that causes more damage than good and you can only stress relieve with two hours in an oven.

Fingers99, I like your idea of paying more attention to the structures I come across day to day. I guess I should also look at more of the Project plans here and elsewhere.

Jackel, I have looked at some of the Miller books and they are helpful, but so far I haven't found anything that I would consider as a reference. For example, for many years at work I used to have "The Mechanical Engineering Handbook" that had huge amounts of helpful information. (It may also have had welding information, but since we only made hobby equipment and only fabricated 22 ga. steel housings, we did no welding so I didn't really notice.) I was hoping to find the welding equivalent of that.

Sanny, Fingers and anyone else, is the notch in the top picture how you would do a corner joint, or would you use a miter or ?

 

[wyn]

When making a frame i don't usually bother with 45* joints. I either use the method in you're top pic or a slight variation on it. with this type of joint you get 6 welds (3 either side) as opposed to 4 with a mitre.

The arrow in the first pic shows where the corner needs grinding off to clear the inside radius of the angle.




This next pic shows the three welds you need to do (plus another 3 on the outside) . It also shows the variation where the angle on the right sits outside the other so you don't cut off the bottom part of the vertical flange.

I usually cut all of this with a cutting disc in a grinder. When making a frame i usually do all this cutting on the shortest sides so i can hold the angle in a vice.




The yellow area in the last pic is where i would tack weld the four corners of a rectangular frame. This allows you to measure diagonaly across two sets of corners and give the corners a whack to get both measurements the same to give you a square frame. (as long as the opposite sides of the frame were cut the same length at the start of the job) Once square another couple of tacks on the horizontal surfaces at each corner, then weld the lot up.




When the size of the frame is critical you have to remember to take into account the thickness of the angle when you cut it to length or you end up with it either too large or too small.

Hope this is the sort of info you were after.

 

[English Steve]

Depending on how much I have to do, I favour the mitre for corner joints. This is simply because I can set the bandsaw to 45deg and let it get on with the cutting while I do something else. For an intermediate cross brace, such as under the centre of a table where you need the top to be flush, I use exactly the same cut as Wyn has posted above.

If using box section, I always mitre the corner. If you don't, then any load / stresses are all going into one wall of the box.

As has been mentioned in other threads, a lot depends on the tooling you have available and the use the joint is being put to.
BTW, both Machinery's Handbook and Kempes Yearbook have sections on welding, but neither tell you much about joint prep.

 

[fingers99]

Sanny, Fingers and anyone else, is the notch in the top picture how you would do a corner joint, or would you use a miter or ?

Personally I'd do it mitre, if only because it's easier with bandsaw, hacksaw or cut off, but I can see no reason not to do it the Finch way if that suits your kit.

 

[clevinski]

Excellent! Thanks to all, especially to Wyn for taking all the photos and marking up the parts to make it clear!

 

[Drains]

On angle - mitre (for corners, obviously), every time. More welds doesnt necessarily make the job stronger, just more work. If i can get away with it, i'll just cut the mitre in the bottom web, and do a cut and shut on the thing. You end up with a slight radius on the outside (which you can beat out), but it saves time. Two quick cuts with a thin disc, one weld. Job done.

 

[Hitch]

Miter on the corners, If you need a nice flat weld inside you can prep it out, weld and clean the majority off with a grinder. No chance with notched corners.
Notched corners are ideal for mir rail type joints.