Recommended me some ball joint splitters

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Sykes Pickervant lever action for most.
Should not damage the rubber boot.
But if if is defective, there is no issue.

For track rods ends their screw action one does me well.

For bottom ball joints.
Just open the pinch joint and lever down.

The hammer approach works just as well. A few deft blows on the side will shock the joint free.

 

[mr haynes]

Not sure if these are superior to what you’ve used before but they've never broken and not failed to separate the ball joint.

Draper 13914 19 mm Capacity Ball Joint Separator https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9PKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ikQMCbKPDVYJF

+1 for this one. The Draper is cheap, hasn't snapped even after years of abuse, doesn't split boots, no worries with miss-aimed hamsters or access, and works.
Previous experience suggests the Clarke ones were made of cheese

 

[aguycalledsteve]

I've always used a hammer on the side of the housing, a good belt and the shock should free it.
Pickle forks split the rubbers.

This is my experience also. smack the housing with the hammer and shock it free. The forks I've used had 100% success rate of removal BUT also have never failed in knackering the rubber boot

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I agree about the Clarks splitting kit.
Total "carp"

 

[MoreWellie]

from machine Mart all the same i expect

certainly looks the same as the halfords one which we have also broken, so -1 from me

 

[tom 748]

ya clark stuff is all crap,and spares costa brava for crap

 

[gaz1]

so buy splitter forks from halfords break then should have a garantee on them so return them

 

[123hotchef]

so buy splitter forks from halfords break then should have a garantee on them so return them

i like that idea!

 

[colnerov]

If shops are going to sell fork type splitters, they should at least be have the rubber boots available as well.

 

[mr haynes]

AFAIK there is nothing to stop you gluing a boot, it is only stopping dirt ingress afterall....

 

[Mikey D]

Sykes picksvant here , type with the bolt/screw

 

[8ob]

Sykes picksvant here , type with the bolt/screw

Same here, got the gurt SP truck one that will also pop off suspension ball joints and a smaller one for track rod ends. I don't mind using the hammer in fork type boot wreckers if the joints are being changed .

Bob

 

[keithski122]

that works for the top and bottom ball joints but never the ones on the steering linkage and pitman arms

25 years of being a mechanic and its worked for me.
Pickle forks work well for releasing driveshafts from gearboxs though.

 

[pedrobedro]

25 years of being a mechanic and its worked for me.
Pickle forks work well for releasing driveshafts from gearboxs though.

50 years of doing my own repairs and never owned or used a splitter on hub or steering joints.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

My Sykes scissor type is nearly 40 years old and still as good as new.

 

[Munkul]

best ball joint splitter is a properly sized lump hammer.

I found a lump hammer years ago that seems to be the perfect size for nearly every job (apart from proper heavy beating) and I am scared of the day the handle breaks... cos then I'll have to find another "perfect" hammer, or go through the pain of fitting a new shaft.

 

[stuvy]

I've been using this type for years, works fine if you have access, although not sure of the quality of the one linked to, I got mine from a motor factors.

Used to buy one of these every few months, used an impact gun to bust it off super quick then it would be done and onto the next job!

 

[DAPPH]

Not sure if these are superior to what you’ve used before but they've never broken and not failed to separate the ball joint.

Draper 13914 19 mm Capacity Ball Joint Separator https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9PKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ikQMCbKPDVYJF

Lovely bits of kit , when you get a LITTLE bit of tension on the joint smack the eye once or twice with another hammer if you have the space to use them .
If that fails add heat reset up and repeat .

I've even had to make up a frame in 3/4 welded steel to fit over a ball joint and use a portable hydraulic 30 tonne cylinder press to remove one . When everything was in place it got 25 tons of pressure pushing on the threaded bolt end and a got a slight tap with a 2 lb engineers hammer on the end of the eye via a long brass drift .. it went of like a hand grenade forcing me to check my trousers

There is no shame in having to take a big bit of kit off the vehicle to be able to get at & work in total safety …………………. I got crippled trying to split a trucks steering tie rod balls from the stub arms on the hubs to replace both worn ends , something I'd done nigh on a hundred times previously .

 

[ukracer]

I've not used a splitter on any ball joint for 25 yrs since I was shown the smack the side of the housing with a hammer trick. Everyone one since has popped with a few blows. Sometimes have to use a 1" sq drift if space is limited to get the lump hammer in.

Can we have a video next time you do one please?

 

[merryman]

I've not used a splitter on any ball joint for 25 yrs since I was shown the smack the side of the housing with a hammer trick. Everyone one since has popped with a few blows. Sometimes have to use a 1" sq drift if space is limited to get the lump hammer in.

I always use a hammer too, well two hammers mostly, one at either side of the joint. I do repairs for a living and those lever and screw things never seem to fit, or you haven't got the room to get them in. With track rod ends you often need to pry the rod with a bar while hitting the steering arm.