Recommendations for solid 2k gloss

[steveo3002]

whats the ebay firm that tries to pass off air drying stuff as 2k , and then it never dries and its the users fault

 

[ajlelectronics]

whats the ebay firm that tries to pass off air drying stuff as 2k , and then it never dries and its the users fault

We are discussing conventional 2K, not the 'converted' stuff to which you allude.

 

[steveo3002]

i was suggesting be carefull its not all 2k this n that in the ad and then turns out to be converted rubbish

several forum members have been caught out and ive got stung with a aerosol

 

[jo1010]

I have used a lot of it in the past and it has been fine, as long as you realise that it is "bulk" paint, which affects the repeat colour matching. Apart from that, I had no complaints.

Jawel also used to do top quality clear coat (prospray from valspar/Sherwin Williams) as well as their standard basecoat offering. Top finish...

 

[Micromoose]

So, the 29107 sanded really well and I've made good progress over the winter (so far...) I still have the doors, bonnet & tailgate to crack on with but the shell is pretty much done.

I've decided to use HMG Nisocoat for the gloss due to not having the correct breathing apparatus for an isocyanate based 2k but the TDS states 2 coats wet on wet with further coats possible if flatted before application. To me, only 2 coats doesn't sound enough (more is better right?) so if I leave it say 2 weeks after the first 2 coats, do I simply lightly flat with a fine grade paper, clean off as normal, then recoat?

Thanks,

 

[qwakers]

you can keep coating past 2 coats wet on wet, but if it flows out ok and doesn't need flatting and polishing, 2 coats will be fine.

 

[ajlelectronics]

(more is better right?)

Nope. Excess paint causes issues, two or three coats of solid are adequate.

 

[Misterg]

To me, only 2 coats doesn't sound enough

From my limited experience, it goes on quite thick. The first coat gave 100% coverage. Trying to go any lighter just gave a dry, rough surface.

It went on really well, but I cocked up - I was painting a windscreen surround, half from each side of the car; I wasn't paying enough attention to the overlap and ended up with a huge sag where the coats overlapped. Hopefully it will sand out, but haven't tried yet.

Pleased with the finish otherwise. The paint went off OK, but took a long time to harden, even keeping the shed heated for 48 hours after.

 

[steveo3002]

Nope. Excess paint causes issues, two or three coats of solid are adequate.

indeed , more paint you put on the bigger and deeper any stonechips will be

 

[ajlelectronics]

indeed , more paint you put on the bigger and deeper any stonechips will be

I have also seen cracks appear in the top surface, although to be fair that was 1k paint.

 

[RichardM]

I found cracks were more like wrinkles caused by the top surface hardening and then the base coats shrinking as they dried out, 1k also.

 

[GSR]

I’ve used Jawel solid 2k a number of times on race cars. I’d say it’s been my skills rather than the paint that has affected the outcome.ive always been happy with it, its cut and polished well and it’s stood up to track abuse.

 

[steveo3002]

View attachment 531982

looks like a proper job , i would mask off that engine bay and do it on its own first , why not start on a few loose panels see how it goes ?

 

[Micromoose]

Thanks all, displaying my lack of knowledge assuming more coats is better.

I'm planning on masking the exterior and paint the interior and engine bay first as a practice, before going onto visible panels. I'll post up some results when ready.

Cheers for the advice.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I'm planning on masking the exterior and paint the interior and engine bay first as a practice, before going onto visible panels. I'll post up some results when ready.

I would do it the other way around if the panels are loose. Get the practice by starting on the easier stuff, as engine bays can require pressure changes and other contortions to get right. Panels by contrast are the easy parts.

 

[Micromoose]

I would do it the other way around if the panels are loose. Get the practice by starting on the easier stuff, as engine bays can require pressure changes and other contortions to get right. Panels by contrast are the easy parts.

OK, I'll consider that, Cheers

 

[steveo3002]

back of the bonnet /tailgate would give you a feel for it with minimal chance of messing up the job

 

[Maxakarudy]

My advise would be paint the bonnet hung up, not flat, so sh1t ain't a problem & paint the car twice, 2 coats the first time, let it settle for a couple of weeks,
this allows you see any flaws in the prep work, rectify if necessary, then apply 3 coats, leave for a couple of weeks before polishing.
This how I do all my cars, I'm retired painter/restorer.

 

[DaveB]

My experience is limited to the semi-matt black.
It is possible to get a single coat that looks ok but once the solvents have gone and it's properly cured it is clearly thin.
It also does not like a substrate that has not been abraded.

Once it's on a properly prepared base it seem very good.