recommend some rods please

[..DAZ..]

I am just about to start using my clark 140ED again, it has been a very long time since it last saw the light of day (years!) I wasn't very good with it before although I was able to stick things together. For the last while I have been using a 200A mig but have to weld some stuff shortly that I think would be better suited to the stick. My question is what makes of rods should I start with. From reading on here 6013's are a good start, but what makes are not too expensive and still perform? I have plenty of rods in the shed, mainly Murex, but they have been sitting there for years. I also have some disimilars but can't remember make. Any pointers would be appreciated.
cheers
daz

 

[brightspark]

believe this or not i got a box of 2.5 rods from netto 5 quid a box made in china .they lay on real nice . when u think of it everything that is imported is welded with them .or another nice stick is oerlicon

 

[JayRS4]

Oerlikon Fincord M`s or SIF general 6013`s. There my favorites at the moment for general stuff and wonk break the bank

 

[eil]

Id check what rods you've already got and put them in the oven before trying out a few runs, why spend if you don't really need to !!.

 

[brightspark]

:QUOTE=eil;173435]Id check what rods you've already got and put them in the oven before trying out a few runs, why spend if you don't really need to !!.[/QUOTE]

if im in a hurry i just tap rod on clamp warm up till steam disapears and away u go its 180 amp pickhill same as oxford stick welder they run forever. bought it 35 years ago 95 quid new

 

[..DAZ..]

Cheers for the info guys, will stick some of the old murex ones in the oven when the missus is out, what kind of temp are we talking about? 70c be ok?

cheers
daz

 

[eil]

I did exactly what Bspark said yesterday as I only needed a couple of runs doing, have done it like that before but didn't post that just in case it isn't the done thing . Remembered when as an apprentice all the old welders used to do it as well as tap the rod on the concrete before striking the arc, it was a case of "monkey see monkey do" never knew what the point of it all was though.

 

[Bsmith]

I think hitting the rod on the concrete floor was to break the flux off the end of a part used rod eil.

 

[brightspark]

I did exactly what Bspark said yesterday as I only needed a couple of runs doing, have done it like that before but didn't post that just in case it isn't the done thing . Remembered when as an apprentice all the old welders used to do it as well as tap the rod on the concrete before striking the arc, it was a case of "monkey see monkey do" never knew what the point of it all was though.

the old ways the best heres another. burning with arc welder whack the welder up to 180 amp put a 6mm rod in u can burn crap metal away in orquard corners and burn car body shells up with them or sheet steel

 

[brightspark]

I think hitting the rod on the concrete floor was to break the flux off the end of a part used rod eil.

the reason is to clean the rod end the flux must stop on otherwise it wont strike the ark i tap mine on the earth clamp it gets heavier every day. once away transfer to the job no messy startup welds

 

[eil]

Put a piece of scrap on your earth instead of making a mess on your clamp, if I catch u at it again it`s a clip round the earole for you sonny.

 

[brightspark]

:

Put a piece of scrap on your earth instead of making a mess on your clamp, if I catch u at it again it`s a clip round the earole for you sonny.

good thinkin batman

 

[Welderpaul]

No idea why you would bang the rods on concrete before starting - surely all that does is knock the flux off and give you a bad start?

 

[Drains]

If you really need to take the flux back to strike the arc, use your gloved hand. It's much better than whacking it on something. Do that with lo hy's and you'll get shocking porosity on your strike.

 

[eil]

So the point of the excercise was to get flux off the tip of the rod I take it.

 

[Drains]

Yarp

 

[Bsmith]

If you really need to take the flux back to strike the arc, use your gloved hand. It's much better than whacking it on something.
Do that with lo hy's and you'll get shocking porosity on your strike.

The old blacksmith that I did my apprenticeship with would have probably have asked what a gloved hand was.

 

[..DAZ..]

I dug some rods out from the shed this morning and they are now sitting on top of the Aga drying out. I also found some machine mart ones that I bought along with the welder, but I think I might give them a miss unless someone here tells me different. Anyway, I have found the following

Hilco Red Extra/E42 0 RC/E6013 (half box)
Babcock S2/E309L (half box)
Murex E6013/ZDU/E4322R (full box, almost)
Supercrom S16L-17 (half box)
Think the only ones I ever used were the Murex and I can't even remember where or who I got them from. Any info on the above would be appreciated.
cheers
daz

 

[zzr1200]

E6013 = general purpose mild steel

 

[..DAZ..]

It's all starting to come back to me. I think the babcock ones are for stainless??? Can anyone confirm that, I remember having to weld a patch on a stainless seperator tank on a dry cleaning machine and managed to scrounge some off someone and only used a couple of them. I think the supercrom are possibly desimilairs a propper welder gave me to try and weld stainless to mild steel but never got round to it. Waiting for the other half to come home from work and relieve me of the kids so I can have a bash with them.

daz