Recommend me a reciprocating air saw

[reb78]

As above, can anyone recommend a reciprocating air saw? Reason for wanting one now is that i am going to change the lower control arms on the discovery 3 soon and i believe the tool may be useful to get through the bolts that are likely seized int he bushes at the rear of the arm. That just gives you an idea of the type of horrid jobs it needs to be up to.

Dont want to break the bank, but dont want to buy cheap rubbish and regret it

Thanks in advance

 

[Cobbler]

I bought an SIP one from Tool Station, the first didn't work, changed it without a problem, but the second one, I don't think has enough guts to cut suspension bolts. I can't really complain as it was cheap, only about £20 & it did what I wanted at the time, but I do wish on hindsight I'd bought something better. All the cheap ones look identical, my guess is they all from the same Chinese factory.

 

[reb78]

Thanks - that's the sort of thing i need in order to work out what and what not to avoid.

 

[Cobbler]

Is there room to get an electric one in? I know they are a lot bigger, but I have an Aldi/Lidl one & it will cut just about anything. Some of the metal blades are about 6" long & quite flexible

 

[reb78]

Probably is. I need to get it on the ramp and take a proper look but working from underneath, i think there will be plenty of room.

 

[aguycalledsteve]

I bought the erbauer one from Screwfix. Did the job i needed it for just fine. Got a good solid feel to it and it's reasonable quality.

 

[bourbon]

it's not which saw, but which blades are up to the job.

 

[armalites]

I done a few D3 arms, if they've been done before and were greased then the bolts will come straight out. If are replacing the whole arm and not worried about the old one then you can just cut through the leg with a grinder which will give you easy access to gut the bolt.

If you are cutting with a reciprocating saw then don't scrimp on the blades if you buy cheap one then you'll be there all day. If it's the front lower arms then normally its the rear bush bolt that seizes because the bush is flexible.

If you do it with a saw don't expect to go through it in 2mins, it can be a bit of a slog.

You'll need a new hub nut.

If the bolts come out then they are pretty easy, it's rear uppers that are a pain because the access is crap. Copperslip everything.

The biggest issue when using the reciprocating saw is finding an angle where you don't keep banging the end of the blade.

Make sure you get arms with the bigger ball joint(most are these days).

Drop me a PM if you want any more info, I can also recommend a good supplier of complete kits including everything you need.

 

[mccp]

As @bourbon says it's the blades that are important. I replaced the rear upper wishbones on my D3 a few years ago. The accepted procedure was to cut them into pieces because access is tight and the bolts and bushes will be seized. The reciprocating saw was a useful as a chocolate teapot, even though I used supposedly good Bosch blades at £££ each. Best tool in the end was a 9" grinder with a cut-off disc - just be careful that the only thing you are cutting is the thing you want to cut. I went 1/8" into the rollbar before I noticed. Oops.

The grinder also came in useful for the front suspension. I guess you have been on the disco3 forum? Loads of very good info on this kind of thing.

Edit: Also needed to cut a socket in half to make it small enough to access one of the bolts if I remember correctly.

 

[reb78]

I done a few D3 arms, if they've been done before and were greased then the bolts will come straight out. If are replacing the whole arm and not worried about the old one then you can just cut through the leg with a grinder which will give you easy access to gut the bolt.

If you are cutting with a reciprocating saw then don't scrimp on the blades if you buy cheap one then you'll be there all day. If it's the front lower arms then normally its the rear bush bolt that seizes because the bush is flexible.

If you do it with a saw don't expect to go through it in 2mins, it can be a bit of a slog.

You'll need a new hub nut.

If the bolts come out then they are pretty easy, it's rear uppers that are a pain because the access is crap. Copperslip everything.

The biggest issue when using the reciprocating saw is finding an angle where you don't keep banging the end of the blade.

Make sure you get arms with the bigger ball joint(most are these days).

Drop me a PM if you want any more info, I can also recommend a good supplier of complete kits including everything you need.

As @bourbon says it's the blades that are important. I replaced the rear upper wishbones on my D3 a few years ago. The accepted procedure was to cut them into pieces because access is tight and the bolts and bushes will be seized. The reciprocating saw was a useful as a chocolate teapot, even though I used supposedly good Bosch blades at £££ each. Best tool in the end was a 9" grinder with a cut-off disc - just be careful that the only thing you are cutting is the thing you want to cut. I went 1/8" into the rollbar before I noticed. Oops.

The grinder also came in useful for the front suspension. I guess you have been on the disco3 forum? Loads of very good info on this kind of thing.

Edit: Also needed to cut a socket in half to make it small enough to access one of the bolts if I remember correctly.

Thanks for these bits of advice.

Yep, been on the D3 forum. Unfortunately, photobucket seems to have ruined most of the guides, but i think i get the process.

Plan is to buy complete arms this time, but if I can save the old ones so i can re-bush them for next time, then that would be handy!

I dont think these arms have ever been replaced. Its a 2007 and only covered 70k miles but nothing in the service history about these being replaced and it is pretty extensive. So... I am expecting seized bolts!! But, will copper slip everything properly when I put them back together!

 

[keithski122]

Air saws need a really hefty compressor to work nicely.

 

[graffian]

I have a Cengarette. It does the job and takes 1/2" hacksaw blades, so you can use a decent hacksaw blade.
Mine had a lot of use cutting body panels, it's a fast short stroke job and works well chopping though panels and
through thick multi layer seams, it's slow going though bolts and spindles. I think they do longer stroke slower
ones which are better for bolts and things.
If I had to buy one I would get an electric cheapy.

 

[123hotchef]

it's not which saw, but which blades are up to the job.

very true crap tool good blade does well great tool crap blade does nothing

 

[123hotchef]

Thanks for these bits of advice.

Yep, been on the D3 forum. Unfortunately, photobucket seems to have ruined most of the guides, but i think i get the process.

Plan is to buy complete arms this time, but if I can save the old ones so i can re-bush them for next time, then that would be handy!

I dont think these arms have ever been replaced. Its a 2007 and only covered 70k miles but nothing in the service history about these being replaced and it is pretty extensive. So... I am expecting seized bolts!! But, will copper slip everything properly when I put them back together!

can u get the grinder in there with a thin cutting disc? any way I have used my lidl one on my mitsi to cut bushing sleeves out when doing arms and suspension always try and use a thin disc on the grinder for blots if i can get it in there. my lidl one has been great varible speed too 240V I now have the milwakee 18V brushless but not used it on the truck yet i did use it up a tree to cut 20' off and prune it at the inlaws in the usa i think it is going to be a great tool

 

[premmington]

+1 for Cengar saw... (not cheap).

 

[reb78]

Air saws need a really hefty compressor to work nicely.

I bought Clives old ‘spare’ conpressor recently. He reckoned 45cfm (400litre ish tank and big 3 phase motor).

 

[chris pruteanu]

I too have bought a cheap lidl air saw last year just for same type of jobs and found it did not work at all, took it back for a refund and bought a Makita adjustable speed straight cut off saw. This is twice as long and takes normal bayonet type saw blades- you can get some really good quality fast cutting blades nowadays for decent money ! Cuts everything I tried it on: exhaust pipes, sheet panels, bolts, etc.
Back in uk we had nice snap on air saw which went trough most things as trough butter but they are eye watering expensive ! I am happy with my Makita, does everything I needed to !

 

[Burdekin]

@gaz1 ?

 

[gaz1]

Ive done the suspension bolts often with garage I work for

Just get recip saw out battery and get going now to be fair im using snap on gear and it takes a while even oiling the blade

NOw the eruber will do it but get good blades for it and lubricant for blade as it works away

ID love to use the bandsaw on that item but may trap the blade

BOth are lidl items

 

[armalites]

The other option is one of these, you can get the bolts hot enough to break the rust bond.

https://theinductor.co.uk/

Sykes Pickavant have a video where they use one and then an air hammer to get the bolts out, they also have a guide/press kit that lets you replace the bushes with the arm still on the vehicle