Re-finishing a bad paint job - is 29107 the magic bullet?

[Farside]

If it's any consolation I once bought a cheap car from a dealer when it was getting dark. Realised the next day the wing was an entirely different shade.

Never buy a car under sodium lights, either.

 

[Morris]

A point of clarification if you wouldn't mind from those recommending that I "take it back to bare metal":

Do you mean the whole car or just the problem areas?

I suggested that but I think that @steveo3002 has the more practical approach in post #18.

 

[steveo3002]

just ask yourself - do i want to be doing all this again and buying the paint again to save a few hours sanding

 

[Misterg]

Thanks again. I'm not hearing any objections to using the Lechler 29107 either on bare metal, as a sealer (I am hearing that bare metal is infinitely preferable!), or on plastic parts, so that sounds like the way forwards for that bit.

If a good match is important, I would go with conventional solvent basecoat and then (I believe) that there is a Nisocoat lacquer which would be a good compromise from what I have read. Or you could just go with a 1k Upol lacquer etc

probably worth considering using a standard automotive solvent basecoat with nisocoat 2 clear for the lacquer.

I need to get a rough match at the door shuts. Not sure what the tinting options are for the Nisocoat 2 (From what I've found so far, it just seems to be standard RAL, etc. colours). I would much prefer a base+clear finish, but was thinking that a direct gloss finish might be easier / more forgiving / easier to correct, and easier to repair in the future, however you've got me thinking again:

I am intrigued by the base + Nisocoat 2K clear option...

Am I right in thinking that the process would be to spray X coats of base followed almost immediately by several coats of clear (i.e. everything within a few hours, rather than a few days / weeks)?

Would it be a silly idea to try and paint one panel at a time? It would be a solid colour base, so no metallic matching to worry about?

It feels a lot more manageable to approach it this way, rather than trying to get around the whole car. The wings and bumpers are off at the moment - I could do them (and the doors, boot lid, etc.) on trestles at a nice height. Sills and rear quarters each side on the car, also the windscreen hoop and the panel in front of the boot lid (but they have natural breaks next to them).

 

[norsa]

Base coat needs a little practice beit solid met or mica, whereas solid paint is more forgiving. Your reveals and shuts don't need to be 100% accurate a match. Epoxy will cover most substrates but is best on bare metal.
Nick

 

[steveo3002]

yeah do it in separate panels , wont be so over whelming then , just make sure you have enough paint to finish the job so its all from the same mix

i wouldnt get too stressed about door jambs , if you have to dust over them so be it , not a big deal, if the panels are off its no extra work to go over the boot and door jambs anyway , fair enough dont want to do the engine bay etc

if all the rubbish it taken back to bare metal and epoxied it should make for a decent paint paint job

 

[charlysays]

Thanks again. I'm not hearing any objections to using the Lechler 29107 either on bare metal, as a sealer (I am hearing that bare metal is infinitely preferable!), or on plastic parts, so that sounds like the way forwards for that bit.




I need to get a rough match at the door shuts. Not sure what the tinting options are for the Nisocoat 2 (From what I've found so far, it just seems to be standard RAL, etc. colours). I would much prefer a base+clear finish, but was thinking that a direct gloss finish might be easier / more forgiving / easier to correct, and easier to repair in the future, however you've got me thinking again:

I am intrigued by the base + Nisocoat 2K clear option...

Am I right in thinking that the process would be to spray X coats of base followed almost immediately by several coats of clear (i.e. everything within a few hours, rather than a few days / weeks)?

Would it be a silly idea to try and paint one panel at a time? It would be a solid colour base, so no metallic matching to worry about?

It feels a lot more manageable to approach it this way, rather than trying to get around the whole car. The wings and bumpers are off at the moment - I could do them (and the doors, boot lid, etc.) on trestles at a nice height. Sills and rear quarters each side on the car, also the windscreen hoop and the panel in front of the boot lid (but they have natural breaks next to them).

I would personally go for single stage too/ direct gloss. It is a bit trickier to spray without significant orange peel (use slow 2k thinner, do some test runs and spray as many panels as possible horizontal) but it's probably more correctable and it's just simpler and cheaper too.
I used nisocoat 2 direct gloss on my daily a few years ago and it's never been polished or had any love. Outdoors 24/7 and you can still use it as a mirror. All other 1k top coats would have suffered badly by now.
I would paint a few panels at a time. Its less daunting and the fact is that nisocoat flashes off quickly. If you tried to do the whole car in one go you'd end up with a whole lot of wet sanding and polishing whereas doing a few panels at a time you'll get a pretty decent finish off the gun. Search nisocoat on this forum and you'll find my project thread from when I painted my daily with it.

 

[charlysays]

Thanks again. I'm not hearing any objections to using the Lechler 29107 either on bare metal, as a sealer (I am hearing that bare metal is infinitely preferable!), or on plastic parts, so that sounds like the way forwards for that bit.




I need to get a rough match at the door shuts. Not sure what the tinting options are for the Nisocoat 2 (From what I've found so far, it just seems to be standard RAL, etc. colours). I would much prefer a base+clear finish, but was thinking that a direct gloss finish might be easier / more forgiving / easier to correct, and easier to repair in the future, however you've got me thinking again:

I am intrigued by the base + Nisocoat 2K clear option...

Am I right in thinking that the process would be to spray X coats of base followed almost immediately by several coats of clear (i.e. everything within a few hours, rather than a few days / weeks)?

Would it be a silly idea to try and paint one panel at a time? It would be a solid colour base, so no metallic matching to worry about?

It feels a lot more manageable to approach it this way, rather than trying to get around the whole car. The wings and bumpers are off at the moment - I could do them (and the doors, boot lid, etc.) on trestles at a nice height. Sills and rear quarters each side on the car, also the windscreen hoop and the panel in front of the boot lid (but they have natural breaks next to them).

Forgot to add to my post... When nisocoat was released it was said to be available in automotive and fleet colours. I would find your nearest paint shop who has an hmg account and see if they can get it in your exact oe colour.
It's also considerably cheaper to buy from your local paint shop than buying online from Rawlins paints etc . My mate used automotive solvent base coat as you described wet on wet with nisocoat clear and it worked great.
The good thing about clear coat is if you apply a decent thickness you can correct any runs , peel or nibs without any risk of affecting the colour/ pigment distribution.
With direct gloss some colours can have issues where they get darker as you sand away defects due to the way the pigment in direct gloss settles as it's drying.
If I was going for a perfect DIY direct gloss finish with nisocoat I would probably hose on two coats, flat away any defects finishing with 800 grit then just do another coat over it all.

 

[Misterg]

Thanks again.

If I was going for a perfect DIY direct gloss finish with nisocoat I would probably hose on two coats, flat away any defects finishing with 800 grit then just do another coat over it all.

I know nothing about 2 pack paints - how long would you need to let the first coats cure before being dry enough to flat back? I'm assuming you would sand it dry?

Search nisocoat on this forum and you'll find my project thread from when I painted my daily with it.

Yes, that's one of the threads that's led to me wanting to use it.

 

[charlysays]

Thanks again.



I know nothing about 2 pack paints - how long would you need to let the first coats cure before being dry enough to flat back? I'm assuming you would sand it dry?



Yes, that's one of the threads that's led to me wanting to use it.

I'd say 3-4 weeks depending how thick you put it on. I would see no reason not to wet sand it.
Thinking about it probs best to just do the best you can with 2-3 coats off the gun and then wet sand and polish as you see fit. I just hate working over a whole car multiple times through the grit grades so it seemed an attractive way to skip everything above 800 grit. In the end I did absolutely no paint correction at all on mine and I don't think it'll ever getting anything more than stone chip repairs and it looks decent enough!